OblivionFall Posted August 6, 2014 Posted August 6, 2014 (edited) Hi there, I was wondering if wood glue would work better than hot glue in terms of strength for end caps. My cylinder aerial and ground salutes seem to pop out of the end caps too often. Even though wood glue takes days instead of minutes to dry I was wondering if any of you use it in your cylinder salutes and I was wondering what pros and cons there are to using wood glue instead of hot glue. Edited August 6, 2014 by OblivionFall
TYRONEEZEKIEL Posted August 6, 2014 Posted August 6, 2014 Wood glue shouldn't take days to dry. It sounds like you aren't spiking your shells and you aren't using a very effective salute comp. Try using 7/3 perc/dark al. There's no way it will just pop and end cap off. If you are spiking. The string physically won't allow the end cap to just pop off. Doing both of those will get you where you need to be. I am assuming you are using paper casings with end discs.
schroedinger Posted August 6, 2014 Posted August 6, 2014 Maybe you should posta a picture of your construction and whi h flash you are using. With a 7/3 perc al flash you don't need to spike, but wizh bp or other flash it wipp be needed.
Mumbles Posted August 6, 2014 Posted August 6, 2014 Maybe you should posta a picture of your construction and whi h flash you are using. With a 7/3 perc al flash you don't need to spike, but wizh bp or other flash it wipp be needed. First of all, would it kill you to take 2 seconds to spell check and do some editing to your posts? The errors you make, which happen very regularly, are not a result of not being a native english speaker. They're very clearly just pure laziness. Secondly, for most (proper) methods of making aerial salutes you do need to spike them even with 70/30 flash. This has more to do with reinforcement and construction methods than strength of the composition.
oldspark Posted August 6, 2014 Posted August 6, 2014 Well I glue end caps in with elmers or wood glue and the end caps don't blow out. 1
MrB Posted August 6, 2014 Posted August 6, 2014 Secondly, for most (proper) methods of making aerial salutes you do need to spike them even with 70/30 flash. This has more to do with reinforcement and construction methods than strength of the composition. I have to admit. I don't spike shells. Like, never, ever. Salutes i make from cm thick tubes rolled so they just fit one inside the other. One clayplug in each, the inner one with the timefuse in the center. Stick em together, generally using a touch of wood-glue, and they are done. If shot alone, i stick 2 cutouts of cardboard between the salute and the lift-charge.Salutes are pretty much my only cylinder shells. Other kinds do happen, but rarely. I find myself feeling like i'm wasting materials making cylinder shells, since the volume is larger then it is on a ball shell. Currently i'm not working with effects that cant be contained within a ball shell, i guess that to adds to my list of weird reasons... Ball shells are neater to ;- )B!
Sparx88 Posted August 7, 2014 Posted August 7, 2014 Wood glue for me. Using anything hot near vit f whether it's hot enough to set it off or not, it's kinda fearfull.
psyco_1322 Posted August 7, 2014 Posted August 7, 2014 You need to better explain your "end cap" method. It's hard to say when I don't know how or what your are building your inserts. Pics would help too.
Arthur Posted August 7, 2014 Posted August 7, 2014 A flash salute can use a weak body, a strong body will not improve the performance, BUT a strong body may be needed if there is much lift charge or if it's a bottom shot with a big shell on top. Slow flash or BP may well make a better bang if you glue it with plenty of glue and paper then string bind the whole thing -wrap with glued string til it's completely covered and even the glue is closed on itself.
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