gun410 Posted July 17, 2014 Posted July 17, 2014 I see some people use 75% water 25% alcohol to wet Stars what is good to wet beginner tiger tail stars. Thanks
Jordan Posted July 17, 2014 Posted July 17, 2014 75/25 works well. Just make sure not to over-wet your TT comp. make 1/4-3/8 stars for a 3 inch shell. These stars do not "need" priming but it's always best to put a light BP prime on.
gun410 Posted July 17, 2014 Author Posted July 17, 2014 75/25 works well. Just make sure not to over-wet your TT comp. make 1/4-3/8 stars for a 3 inch shell. These stars do not "need" priming but it's always best to put a light BP prime on.So when u say alcohol u mean inspiring alcohol right and I don't have a star pump so can I use the cutting method
Mumbles Posted July 17, 2014 Posted July 17, 2014 What's inspiring alcohol? Also, "u" is a letter not a word.
gun410 Posted July 17, 2014 Author Posted July 17, 2014 What's inspiring alcohol? Also, "u" is a letter not a word. What kind of alcohol is itWhat kind of alcohol do you use
schroedinger Posted July 17, 2014 Posted July 17, 2014 You can use most common alcohol. For toxity reasons i would recommend to use ethanol. (You can use the normal 95% cleaning stuff, no need for food grade)
hindsight Posted July 18, 2014 Posted July 18, 2014 schroedinger, When using 95% ethanol I am happier using "food grade" (e.g., potato alcohol) ethanol as it is never denatured with methanol. A little intoxication, if some makes it past the respirator or into my skin, may impair my judgment temporarily, but will not result in permanent nerve damage.
TYRONEEZEKIEL Posted July 18, 2014 Posted July 18, 2014 I just use 91% isopropyl alcohol from walmart. Then mixed with water to get the standard 75/25 mix. The TT can be cut, so long as they have the proper amount of moisture. Star comps with high charcoal amounts are deceptive when it comes to getting them wet. The charcoal really likes to hold on to the water and not let it disperse well. Your first instinct will say that they are too dry and need more water. Just keep kneading the comp and add water very slowly. Thorough blending is key here.
MrB Posted July 18, 2014 Posted July 18, 2014 schroedinger, When using 95% ethanol I am happier using "food grade" (e.g., potato alcohol) ethanol as it is never denatured with methanol. A little intoxication, if some makes it past the respirator or into my skin, may impair my judgment temporarily, but will not result in permanent nerve damage.The amounts you could inhale, or absorb through skin contact isn't really a problem, unless your taking a bath in a tub filled with the pure stuff. But your right to aim for safety.Quite unrelated, but, a mate of mine, did some paperwork in a "smallish" room with a container of white, or mineral spirits (same thing, different name) that happened to have been left with the lid of, came down with a bad case of headache, nausea, and vomiting. He was in there for about an hour, and when he went in there wasn't any funky smells, but after sitting in there with a closed door, everyone else could clearly notice it... In the state he was, i wouldn't suggest anyone try pyro, or as he was supposed to, operate machinery. The vapors alone can mess you up bad, staying safe, is always the best alternative.B!
gun410 Posted July 18, 2014 Author Posted July 18, 2014 Before I made the topic I made tiger tail stars and i used water there drying now is it bad that I didn't use alcohol is that bad and will they work
TYRONEEZEKIEL Posted July 18, 2014 Posted July 18, 2014 alcohol just helps them dry faster and lowers the surface tension of water. They will work fine with or without alcohol.
Carbon796 Posted July 18, 2014 Posted July 18, 2014 I prefer to use straight water for most water bound comps, they will be fine.
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