LambentPyro Posted July 11, 2014 Posted July 11, 2014 My first 6" Inch made completely from my raw materials. Came out to be a nice one. See details below:Stars were essentially TT + 20% FeTi, rolled to 1/2" Inch (+ or - 1/32" Inch). 15/32" of star comp and 1/32" BP Green Mix Prime.Burst was 5:1 MCRH (Whitewood Charcoal) w/ 3.6 grams Whistle.Shell weighed 1223.7 grams; Lift was 114.8 grams Granulated Black Powder (Black Willow Charcoal).Bottomshot was a 3" Inch BA-Ti (10%) Sponge Salute.The hemi with the bottomshot did not have any tissue separation, however the hemi with the spollette contained a tissue paper separation.Shell was pasted with 1" 35 LB. Gummed Tape on the WASP Superstinger.Relative humidity was 82% in the area with partly cloudy skies.
pyrokid Posted July 11, 2014 Posted July 11, 2014 Nice shell! Next time we need an inner petal and color cores on the outer petal!
LambentPyro Posted July 11, 2014 Author Posted July 11, 2014 I had another 6" with these stars and a Pyro Science Blue IP, but miraculously the time fuse didn't light anything inside when it finished burning through. So I have to find some time to fix that up and hopefully get it back up. Thanks for your advice though, really appreciate it!
mkn Posted July 11, 2014 Posted July 11, 2014 Sweet !! Big burst with a little whistle and the 5:1, It is nice to have the specs on your build, How many layers were pasted? I'm going to have to read up on the significance and meaning of the tissue paper separation on the hemis, I have to try rolling the charcoal comps again..... Matt
LambentPyro Posted July 11, 2014 Author Posted July 11, 2014 Thanks for the compliments guys! Mkn, the machine pasted 9 layers or about 100 feet or so. I have building pics of the shell as well, so I'll try to get those dug up soon. My MCRH is super-fast. I make it using plain distilled water and soak my hulls and put it in the roller and dump increments of comp on just like how they're normally made. Then I air dry them and it seems as though it takes about 9-12 hours to reach full strength in it's burn rate, not sure how other people dry their MCRH, but they seem to dry super fast for me and produce excellent-hard hulls. In my experience, I've found the tissue paper to reduce the shake of material inside the shell once it's closed up. It has produced cleaner breaks for me too, but honestly isn't required. Not using it isn't going to hurt your shells, but using it can possibly improve your shell. Charcoal comps are the easiest to roll and produce such awesome effects when dialed in right for size, charcoal type, refining techniques (milling, screening, toro, etc.), and the formula itself (some turn out better than others).
Niladmirari Posted July 11, 2014 Posted July 11, 2014 (edited) Wow! You know it fantastic shell. Looks like a Star Wars Sorry. I do not know MCRH . It ВР on rice husk? What weight bursting charge? You use flash bag for Whistle? Thanks for the answer! Nil. Edited July 11, 2014 by Niladmirari
Bobosan Posted July 11, 2014 Posted July 11, 2014 .... "Sorry. I do not know MCRH . It ВР on rice husk?" .... Correct.....Meal Coated Rice Hulls or Husks
Maserface Posted July 12, 2014 Posted July 12, 2014 Bottom shot ruined it for me, but to each his own
ddewees Posted July 12, 2014 Posted July 12, 2014 Bottom shot ruined it for me, but to each his own[Video] I thought it was nice Lambent, thanks for sharing.
LambentPyro Posted July 12, 2014 Author Posted July 12, 2014 (edited) Wow! You know it fantastic shell. Looks like a Star Wars Sorry. I do not know MCRH . It ВР on rice husk? What weight bursting charge? You use flash bag for Whistle? Thanks for the answer! Nil.I normally don't weigh my burst charge but if I weighed it prior to filling the shell and then weighed my container afterwards and subtracted the weight, I'd be able to determine that amount. However, I was in a rush and unfortunately wasn't able to note that. Nope, just mix the two chems at the correct proportions and weighed the 1.7 grams for wach hemi and distributed it among the surface of the rice hulls. Thanks for your questions! Sweet looking shell lambent!Thanks Jake [Video] I thought it was nice Lambent, thanks for sharing.Thanks for your compliment! Edited July 12, 2014 by LambentPyro
Wiley Posted August 4, 2014 Posted August 4, 2014 I know this thread has been inactive for a while, but when I see a shell this nice, I've just gotta comment on it. Awesome job Lambent, you should be proud. Bottom shots are awesome, especially in round shells, since not many do it. I personally tire of plain ol' star shells, and I really love it when someone adds a little spice to a conventional break. Again, well done!
TYRONEEZEKIEL Posted August 4, 2014 Posted August 4, 2014 Wow. This was a great shell. One of the few times you can capture the power of flash on film. The bottom shot really thumped. I loved the break. Fantastic job
Mumbles Posted August 4, 2014 Posted August 4, 2014 It was a good looking shell, especially for one of the first of this size. You'll be making great looking shells in no time. Even the places for improvement are relatively minor. There was a pretty noticeable equator line. It just so happened to break basically perpendicular to the camera, which can accentuate it. Feel free to disagree with me, but I'm with Maserface on the BS. The tail hides it and the break angle make it less noticeable, but if you look closely there is a big chunk missing out of the flower. It's probably most visible around 5 seconds, where you can clearly see the stars only about 60-70% as far out. From another angle, it would be a much more noticeable defect in the shape of the break. This is 100% from the bottom shot. Bottom shots can be used in ball shells, but they screw up the symmetry if you don't center them.
TYRONEEZEKIEL Posted August 5, 2014 Posted August 5, 2014 My only concern with the BS was it's timing was too early. However I figured it would have been a peanut, not a double petal or an insert. 1
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