pyroMIKE Posted June 16, 2014 Author Posted June 16, 2014 (edited) Its not hard.Just fill both hemis like you would do with color shells using tissue on one hemi so it dosent spill when putting them together.I do like to pack it in there..I have had pro 1.75 inch salutes that had a full 31 grams of comp in them. Here is a video of those.. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=S3BeEFLADJ0 Edit: My 2.5 inch salutes are pretty damn potent..I think there louder than 3 inch pro salutes and I have shot all the high end brands of those.Lidu,sunsong,yung feng,ect..ect.. Edited June 16, 2014 by pyroMIKE
clarkie752 Posted June 16, 2014 Posted June 16, 2014 Thanks for the info on no airspace needed. I saw on a site that sold 2.5" Salutes that they had 35 grams in them so i thought this was standard weight for a 2.5 Salute. I will try using more powder next time i make a batch. I thought the ones i made before were loud icant wait to hear/feel the next ones i make. Thanks again
MrB Posted July 5, 2014 Posted July 5, 2014 Why do you need a lot of air space? Some of the most robust of all the American reports are Dr. X made and I think they are all packed solid. Any others that know the good Doctor that could elaborate? Solid... perhaps not. Full, sure. Not that i know the good doctor. On the topic of crossmatching. I tend to use 2 timefuses, or spolettes. Timefuses get crossmatched with a single tied on quickmatch, but i really wish i had the tooling to punch a hole through it and insert the quickmatch, instead of cutting a split in the timefuse, and re-tying over the guickmatch. Spolettes just get a BP slurry dip unless i used some hard to ignite comet composition... Never, more or less. In reality i could probably get away with scuff-marks, and no prime.B!
dagabu Posted July 6, 2014 Posted July 6, 2014 I helped set this one up for a friend on his arbor press. The punch is from Pyro Punch Tools. I retrofit them with a special hex screw (full dog) so you can get perfect timing from each punch. I have yet to see a better punch with better accuracy.
flying fish Posted July 20, 2014 Posted July 20, 2014 (edited) In regards to the insert shell that didn't light: I'm not sure if this has been addressed, and you are probably already be aware, but just in case... the passfire on the inside of the shell is just as important as the take fire on the outside. In my early days of pyro I had many shells fail because I didn't know I was supposed to crossmatch the inside. Whoops! Every shell I recovered took fire but did not pass it to the inside. Edited July 20, 2014 by flying fish
pyroMIKE Posted July 23, 2014 Author Posted July 23, 2014 In regards to the insert shell that didn't light: I'm not sure if this has been addressed, and you are probably already be aware, but just in case... the passfire on the inside of the shell is just as important as the take fire on the outside. In my early days of pyro I had many shells fail because I didn't know I was supposed to crossmatch the inside. Whoops! Every shell I recovered took fire but did not pass it to the inside. Thanks..Havent thought about that..I crossmatch my color shells on the inside but I did not these inserts..Definitely noted for future reference..
flying fish Posted July 23, 2014 Posted July 23, 2014 (edited) The crossmatch on the inside is even more critical with a salute because flash powder takes more heat to light than BP (despite the fact that it is much more friction, shock, and static sensitive...who would have thunk?) I've even heard from someone who makes lampares that he "cross matches his crossmatch" by tying strands of BP to each wing of the main crossmatch. I don't think I'd go that far for your larger insert, but I'd suggest at least standard crossmatching. In the small timed reports where it is not really practical to cross match the inside, I've seen people dip the end of the fuse in a slurry of BP+metal. I have yet to make timed reports in that fashion but it sounds like it should work. Edited July 23, 2014 by flying fish
MrB Posted July 23, 2014 Posted July 23, 2014 Hard to fit a crossmatch inside them caps. I don't use em, again due to my feelings about shredding plastics and tossing it in the surrounding, but from my understanding people use timefuse that spit a lot of fire on their own, and pretend they are fine with that. Seams to work "ok".B!
Towskister Posted July 24, 2014 Posted July 24, 2014 Beautiful, I look forward to the next video, lets see that salute go off.
zakmaster524 Posted December 6, 2014 Posted December 6, 2014 this looks REALLY awesome!! cool pics and vid!
calebkessinger Posted December 7, 2014 Posted December 7, 2014 (edited) Well mixed flash is extra fluffy and will settle nicely if made do so. Just tap a cylinder salute on the table after you filled it and see how much more room you have. Minimum 10% gain I would say and as much as 25% more will fit. Just from what I have tried and others have told me they do. I haven't tried it on a ball salute. I would think you would need to assemble it cut a hole in the end and funnel the flash in. Then just use a fused disc to close it. Just some thoughts. As for the time fuse not cross matched. Just dipping it in NC slurry and dredging bp works well. If people are making cap plug timed inserts they sometimes are cut as close as 32nds of an inch, very hard to do that with crossmatching. I just put a little bp on top of the flash inside the cap plug to aid ignition. Edited December 7, 2014 by calebkessinger
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