MWJ Posted May 27, 2014 Posted May 27, 2014 I have some iron filing with machine oil in it and I tried to clean it with dish soap then drained and rinsed it off but when I dried it it rusted. I guess I can keep it as Iron Oxide but I want just the filings so does anyone know how to clean this stuff without the rusting of it? Thanks Mike
BurritoBandito Posted May 27, 2014 Posted May 27, 2014 I would try a solvent to strip the oil off. Denatured alcohol, plenty of agitation, and filtration should do the trick I would think.
dagabu Posted May 27, 2014 Posted May 27, 2014 Denatured is OK but it has no surfactant to break the oil bond to the iron and alcohol only dissolves some oils, not all. MEK would be ideal, gasoline is not recommended, use kerosene if you have to. Honestly, I used the filings with no rinsing, use a few layers of paper towel, put the filings on them and rub the extras off. I have found no retardation in comps if dry to the touch.
MWJ Posted May 27, 2014 Author Posted May 27, 2014 Denatured is OK but it has no surfactant to break the oil bond to the iron and alcohol only dissolves some oils, not all. MEK would be ideal, gasoline is not recommended, use kerosene if you have to. Honestly, I used the filings with no rinsing, use a few layers of paper towel, put the filings on them and rub the extras off. I have found no retardation in comps if dry to the touch. Ok, thanks, I'll try them the way they are and see what happens. I'll make some fountains with it. They do seen dry to the touch.
BurritoBandito Posted May 27, 2014 Posted May 27, 2014 What if he provides a notarized document saying it did?
BurritoBandito Posted May 28, 2014 Posted May 28, 2014 Look for methyl ethyl ketone at the hardware store.
Mumbles Posted May 28, 2014 Posted May 28, 2014 You can usually find it at most well stocked hardware or painting supply stores. MEK stands for Methyl Ethyl Ketone, which might be the actual name on the can. It's quite chemically similar to acetone. Some people have an aversion to the odor of MEK, as a fair warning.
MWJ Posted May 28, 2014 Author Posted May 28, 2014 Great! Thanks guys, I'm going to town tomorrow so I'll look at Home Depot. Is there a way to separate the Iron Oxide from the Clean Iron, if there is any of it left?
dagabu Posted May 28, 2014 Posted May 28, 2014 Sorry, both are ferrous and are magnetic, the "rust" isn't an issue, it will act as a catalyst to the fuel, if nothing else, it will make the burn propagate faster.
Mumbles Posted May 28, 2014 Posted May 28, 2014 Sorry, both are ferrous and are magnetic, the "rust" isn't an issue, it will act as a catalyst to the fuel, if nothing else, it will make the burn propagate faster. Which are both ferrous and magnetic? This is probably getting into semantics. Ferrous means something different to a chemist than to the normal public. Also, only one form of iron oxide is magnetic. Anyway, dilute vinegar (50:50 or so) will remove the rust. It will probably start rusting on the surface upon drying still.
dagabu Posted May 28, 2014 Posted May 28, 2014 Correction accepted and noted, I will leave the chemistry to the guy with the degree.
WSM Posted May 28, 2014 Posted May 28, 2014 (edited) I think peroleum products would do the best job of removing cutting fluids. I recommend using hexanes (AKA Coleman stove fuel). Obviously, do this outdoors away from any source of ignition.I've never removed the cutting oil and the iron works great in compositions using it.WSM Edited May 29, 2014 by WSM
Arthur Posted May 28, 2014 Posted May 28, 2014 Iron/steel will rust if left clean. SO if you simply minimise the existing cutting lubricant you should be able to use the filings. If you want to get them clean then perhaps kerosene would be a good solvent for the lube. Once you clean the final oil off the rusting will start, so clean filings need coating and usually with hot thin wax or something like linseed oil MEK is used by trades that need to soften and stick PVC pipe for drains and overflows -it's the cleaner before the solvent weld "glue".
dagabu Posted May 28, 2014 Posted May 28, 2014 I think peroleum products would do the best job of removing cutting fluids. I recommend using hexanes (AKA Coleman stove fuel). Obviously, do this outdoors away from any source of ignition. I've never removed the cutting oil and the iron works great in compositions using it. WSM Ahhhhh! Forgot about that! Good catch. @Arthur, Steel and iron will not rust without all three ingredients, moisture, the metal and oxygen. Clean filings and grindings will not rust in a bag if there is no O2 or moisture. Wax or linseed oil must be used when making comps with oxidizers, this keeps the O2 away from the steel/iron. I have had good luck with steel/iron in comps with oxidizers when used within the week when not coated, it doesn't happen instantly. Oatey PVC primer is Acetone 20%, Methyl Ethyl Ketone 34% and Tetrahydrofuran 45%. Mumbles can help us out here but I think the Tetrahydrofuran is used as a evaporation assistant (correct me somebody) to the MEK.
Mumbles Posted May 28, 2014 Posted May 28, 2014 THF is actually the only one of the three that actually dissolves PVC. The other two will swell and soften it, but never truly dissolve it. I suspect it's actually in there to dissolve the surface of the plastic slightly so that a fresh, unglazed surface is prepared for the final gluing which is really more of a solvent weld.
WSM Posted May 28, 2014 Posted May 28, 2014 (edited) THF is actually the only one of the three that actually dissolves PVC. The other two will swell and soften it, but never truly dissolve it. I suspect it's actually in there to dissolve the surface of the plastic slightly so that a fresh, unglazed surface is prepared for the final gluing which is really more of a solvent weld.Well said, Mumbles. Weld-On has a product that does a superb job of bonding solid PVC; it's their formula 2007. WSM Edited May 29, 2014 by WSM
WSM Posted May 28, 2014 Posted May 28, 2014 (edited) It occurs to me that if you coat the iron with boiled linseed oil, why bother with removing the cutting oil first? I've used brake drum turnings for years and never cleaned the cutting oil off. If anything the oil helps protect the iron from corrosion, somewhat.Deliberately coating the iron with either linseed or tung oil will preserve it in mixtures far longer than if nothing is used.@MWJ - What is your planned purpose for the iron?WSM Edited May 29, 2014 by WSM
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