VikingPyrotechnics Posted March 8, 2014 Share Posted March 8, 2014 I have a 4 "cylinder shell built with the remaining willow diadem to blue stars. I did not have enough of it, so I had the liner cut back something. And I had no pulverone to fill the gaps between the stars. So I took MCRH. It worked quite well. Here are a few pictures of the construction. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qmWEr0koLUY GreetsVP 4 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Wiley Posted March 8, 2014 Share Posted March 8, 2014 Very nice Viking! Super clean work, as always. That's some fine burst powder you've got there. What mesh size is it? I've thought of separating the burst from the stars with tissue paper, but I've never actually seen someone do it until now. I may just have to try that. Keep up the good work, sir Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
VikingPyrotechnics Posted March 8, 2014 Author Share Posted March 8, 2014 Thank you , Wiley I used 4FA BP for this shell and it worked pretty good Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
psyco_1322 Posted March 9, 2014 Share Posted March 9, 2014 There ya go kids, cylinder shells, simple as that! Pretty clean build, good pics and all. But sooooo much glue! I'd give that thing a day or two to dry before even pasting it. If you were using a coarser burst, you can skip the tissue liner for the cannule. Given how fine that powder is, it's probably a good thing, so it doesn't migrate into the stars and such. My polverone and burst are usually the same mesh, so it doesn't really have a tendency to migrate into the stars. Plus the stars should already have and gaps filled in by polverone to start with. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
VikingPyrotechnics Posted March 9, 2014 Author Share Posted March 9, 2014 (edited) Hi Stew, after spiking I let the shell dry to the next day, and then continued to work. The next morning I have pasted with 30# kraft paper , left it in my drying cabinet to dry until afternoon and had then assembled the rest of the shell ps: here is the result http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pGZDrIPZkTE Not the best position to film ( it breaks right over my head ) but the stars looked very nice Edited March 9, 2014 by VikingPyrotechnics 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BrainDamage Posted March 9, 2014 Share Posted March 9, 2014 nice little tutorial video Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mkn Posted March 11, 2014 Share Posted March 11, 2014 Hi VP, I tried the tissue around the cannule tonight, good tip ! along with keeping the burst together, it helps the cannule slide out so much easier without disturbing the star placements ( I was building some test 1.75 " canisters, tight fit) Keep the videos coming ! Matt Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WonderBoy Posted March 11, 2014 Share Posted March 11, 2014 Nice video VP.That is quite a bit of glue, have you ever tried without glue? I use glue around the spolette, but have been using zero glue on the pleats or disks. Also, any particular reason for cutting all of your pleats? I like to just fold them down, in my mind it seems more fireproof. WB Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
psyco_1322 Posted March 11, 2014 Share Posted March 11, 2014 I'd also say to just fold the pleats. You method looks like a mix of the Maltese and Italian casings. From what I understand, most factories built shells with little to no glue. Mostly it's notable that they don't glue down the pleats. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Wiley Posted March 11, 2014 Share Posted March 11, 2014 Interesting. I'll have to give that a go on my next shells. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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