jaysgoh Posted January 31, 2014 Posted January 31, 2014 (edited) I just came back from field. I bring :3 big rocket 1 homemade mines 1 homemade lift charge only shells 2 inch 1 homemade real 2 inch canister shells with dragon eggs and c7 stars Review : Rocket fire very well. I like the effect! My mines shoot very well! But I don't know why it doesn't hit my stars. My lift charge only 2 inch shells! It snuggly fit and when I light, it just push out! Lucky no burst charge! I don't know why my this demo shells can't shoot! I didn't paste it and just wrap a few time until it snugly fit My homemade 2 inch canister shells It filled with black powder burst charge, dragons egg stars and c7 stars It was very tight fit! I use my rocket sticks to push down the shells until. Bottom. At first I light the bm fuse. Until the quick match it stop and glowing. I first thought it was a quick match problem. My cousin stop record and slowly discuss with me. After 40sec it just pop(quick match) and fire up up high! I can see my homemade spottlette firing! And it got mid hard break! All my stars light. It's not very symmetrical.. Just all come out from left up of the shells. I am very satisfied and happy with my shells!! I got one questions! I got one 3 Inch shells, should I make tight fit or snuggly? It's made alresdy and I plan to light it this Friday, and it's snugly fit inside. Any advise? Should I paste more so that become tight fit? Thanks Edited January 31, 2014 by gohjiejing
Dean411 Posted January 31, 2014 Posted January 31, 2014 You dont want a tight fit and really not a snug fit either you want about 1/16 inch clearance minimumactually about an 1/8 all around shell would be best. If the shell is too tight you run the risk of a flower pot as there will be to much preassure .
asdercks Posted January 31, 2014 Posted January 31, 2014 you should keep practicing with the 2" shells before moving to a larger shell.stars blowing blind,could be ignition problem, also a hard break can blow them blind, and as Dean said you don't want to have a too tight fit.
jaysgoh Posted February 1, 2014 Author Posted February 1, 2014 I will upload the video of my demo shells. It just push out. Thanks for the advise
schroedinger Posted February 1, 2014 Posted February 1, 2014 So if i understand u right, the shell wen't up just 1 or two metres, right? Thaths sounds like a too slow black powder. You cannister worked prob god, as it was tight fit and giving enought compression.
jaysgoh Posted February 1, 2014 Author Posted February 1, 2014 Yes for the demo shell. The one that successful are tight fit. Anyway I will improve my bp May I know. If my bp is really fast, it don't need to be tight fit right? Just snugly fit will do?
BrainDamage Posted February 1, 2014 Posted February 1, 2014 nice pics now lets see some videos and some tutorials keep it up
schroedinger Posted February 1, 2014 Posted February 1, 2014 If i remember right, you posted a video of you bp in the couple last day, you where burning it near to a bicycle, right? If yes, then you need to improve it a lot. If your bp god, you will need just a god fit.
jaysgoh Posted February 2, 2014 Author Posted February 2, 2014 Nah that's not me... I show to one pyro member and he said mine as fast as him one.. That's why I got confident.. Thanks, I will improved I'm thinking of make a ematch and stick to the lift charge. So that I can save the bp on making qm and black match. Is that okay for putting ematch to lift?
asdercks Posted February 2, 2014 Posted February 2, 2014 you want to start using ematch and stuff when you can even shoot a shell up in the air, c'mon. start traditional and keep practicing and improving your powders (lift charge, primes, break charges etc)
nater Posted February 2, 2014 Posted February 2, 2014 (edited) It is okay to stick the ematch directly into the lift, and it is often done that way to achieve the tight timing demanded by a pyromusical. It is not a good idea to build your shells that way. Transporting prematched product is more dangerous since the ematches are so sensitive. However the biggest danger lies if the shell or match fails and you don't have a backup means to light it or a leader to pull the shell out of the mortar. I have seen someone get burned when they pulled an ematch out of a device and it ignited. A proper length leader also allows you to insert the ematch after the shell is loaded. If the shell is loaded and the ematch ignites unexpectedly, the shell should lift and perform as desired. Much better than having a shell with a lit time fuse next to you ob the ground on in your hands. Edited February 2, 2014 by nater 1
jaysgoh Posted February 3, 2014 Author Posted February 3, 2014 Well, do homemade enatch sensitive too? I using bp and nichrome wire. As I think, if I use e firing , will be lot lot thing to bring to fields like battery or tools. Maybe will stick to quick Match Do you guys bend Ur quick match? I got problem when I bend my quick match. At first my black match burn and when reach quick match certain point it stop and glowing for 40 sec.
nater Posted February 3, 2014 Posted February 3, 2014 No, BP and nichrome is nowhere near as sensitive as most comps used on ematches. That is all the more reason to have a backup leader, those types are likely to fail. I have access to plenty of commercial QM which I don't worry about. Is your BM black all the way through, or is your string core visible? I suspect your BM might need some work.
jaysgoh Posted February 3, 2014 Author Posted February 3, 2014 My is cotton string, the inner cored is white in colour but outer are black all the way. It's fast. When after some bending the powder tend to cracking and fall..
Mumbles Posted February 3, 2014 Posted February 3, 2014 If your blackmatch is not black all the way to the core, you have some work to do. Just dragging twine through a slurry does not make satisfactory blackmatch.
jaysgoh Posted February 3, 2014 Author Posted February 3, 2014 How do you guys actually made your bm? In my case, I just realise I just coated my string..
schroedinger Posted February 3, 2014 Posted February 3, 2014 Have a look at the passfire tutorial. It looks quite promising. They take the string, and roll it onto a frame (ot tube should work). Now the string gets tied together, so it won't entangle during process. Now the BP gets worked into it, and the string pulled out. For more details look at the Passfire site. Don`t wan`t to take their work away.
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