Sparx88 Posted December 21, 2013 Posted December 21, 2013 (edited) I have had this peice of 301 series stainless round stock for a few years now and I think it's time I start building the cannon it was destined to be. However, I do not know everything I need to know before I start. This is 12" long and 3" thick exactly by .005 each. It was made for a pin on some heavy mining equipment (radial arm pivot) and was cut 1" too short. So I took it home to give it life as a cannon. My plans are this;back end rounded lathe3/4 x 2" trunions welded at 6"10" x 1" bore (4 bore)1/8" hole for fuse at 9"polishingwood base with wheels I may at some point fire 1" (3oz) cannon balls, so what I need to know is, do I want the bore to be a flat bottom or round bottom? And do I need to have a "powder chamber"? Or just straight bored? Edited December 21, 2013 by Sparx88
Wiley Posted December 30, 2013 Posted December 30, 2013 If that's 3" diameter bar stock, and you're putting a 1" bore in it, you should be fine without a powder chamber. Besides, a powder chamber that small would severely limit your powder charge. If you have the ability to put a rounded breech in it, go for it. Rounded is always better than square corners. Probably don't want to go over more than an ounce for blanks, and less than that with a ball. An ounce doesn't seem like a lot, but with a 1" bore that long, I think you'll be surprised at the noise you can get. Have fun, and stay safe.
CannonBall Posted January 1, 2014 Posted January 1, 2014 (edited) If that "pin" was made for mining equipment is should be crazy tough to drill. Edited January 1, 2014 by CannonBall
Sparx88 Posted January 2, 2014 Author Posted January 2, 2014 (edited) If that "pin" was made for mining equipment is should be crazy tough to drill. You would think. But it turned out that it is 301. A little soft for the application I thought but it was'nt my call, I just reaped the benefit of someone elses measurment mistake. Do you think it's good as is or should it be heat treated for hardness? Edited January 2, 2014 by Sparx88
Wiley Posted January 6, 2014 Posted January 6, 2014 DON'T harden it! In the event of a catastrophic failure, you want your cannon to bulge, not shatter. Hardening it will make it brittle; you want it to be tough. Just bore a hole in it like you were talking about and you'll be golden
toolbox Posted January 8, 2014 Posted January 8, 2014 Stainless steel has a tendency of galling. I made a cannon similar to the one you described to build. I gave .010 inch overbore and used lubed mattress patches over cast lead balls with provone BP
CannonBall Posted January 15, 2014 Posted January 15, 2014 I remember making mini cannons out of 3mm ID aluminum tube, since BP in those didn't work i used flash, and that thing would blast through a paint can without any trouble.
toolbox Posted January 16, 2014 Posted January 16, 2014 I remember making mini cannons out of 3mm ID aluminum tube, since BP in those didn't work i used flash, and that thing would blast through a paint can without any trouble. DO NOT USE FLASH POWDER IN CANNONS!!
Wiley Posted January 20, 2014 Posted January 20, 2014 I remember making mini cannons out of 3mm ID aluminum tube, since BP in those didn't work i used flash, and that thing would blast through a paint can without any trouble. Oh, and I see that you blew up a metal container while loading an improperly made device with a composition that is far to energetic even for a sturdy cannon. Good job. I don't understand WHY people would even dream of doing such a thing, let alone post about it in a thread that has nothing to do with the creation of unintentional pipe bombs. 1
Sparx88 Posted January 21, 2014 Author Posted January 21, 2014 lol Not at all what I want to do. I want to be able to take this to gun shoots, which I occasionally go to besides the one behind the house.
Ditchdoc Posted March 5, 2014 Posted March 5, 2014 I remember when I was going to build my first cannon I had a very hard piece of steel that I was going to bore out to fire golf balls out of. Fortunately for me the machinist I was talking to also built a lot of custom firearms and he advised me to not use that particular piece of steel because of its hardness. He said it was better to use milder steel and have it swell up if something went wrong instead of exploding.
dynomike1 Posted March 7, 2014 Posted March 7, 2014 Go here start reading, everything you need to know.http://www.go2gbo.com/forums/blackpowder-mortar-and-cannon-sponsored-by-seacoast-artillery/ 1
Sparx88 Posted May 22, 2014 Author Posted May 22, 2014 I should have posted this march 8th, lol, sorry. Thank you Mike, that is a real nice place and I have registered and am a member. I did'nt want you to think I was'nt thankfull, I just had forgotten to. For anyone else who is reading this, that link in Mikes reply above, go there, you won't be disappointed.
dagabu Posted May 22, 2014 Posted May 22, 2014 Outstanding source Dynomike! I know I am WAY late to this party but when I made my 1-1/4" smooth bore I also used a seamless steel tube liner then built the rest around it. Stainless steel is awful material for barrels, my Thompson Contender, 6mmBR with a Stainless barrel galls so bad that it is unusable now. Line the stainless boring with a seamless steel liner and you should be good to go.
dynomike1 Posted June 29, 2014 Posted June 29, 2014 I have been busy, so i haven't been around for awhile. I just now read this. Glad i could help.
Skellyton5 Posted June 14, 2015 Posted June 14, 2015 Many years ago my brothers and I made a cannon using an old piece of oil drilling pipe (They are made with very strong metal), some consumer fireworks and a rock we chiseled to fit the pipe. First We set it up at 45 degrees and packed most of it with moist clay mud. Next we put in a small consumer mortar leaving the fuse tailing to the tip of the pipe. Then we shoved in about 6 inches of green grass for wadding, stood back and lit the fuse. The initial launch charge wasn't enough to dislodge the projectile but a few seconds after the main explosion would occur. The muzzle flare was great and the rock initially flew about 150 yards, as we refined the technique (Packing in more grass, and chiseling a rock with a tighter fit) it went up to right over 200 yards where it hit a road and blew to bits. Although it was a low traffic county road we realized the danger of hitting a car and decided to stop. It was a fun experience. I realize this is an older thread and your cannon seems to be far more advanced than ours, but I hope my childhood cannon can provide you with some insight in building your own. -Skellyton5
Thedismisser Posted August 13, 2015 Posted August 13, 2015 Dont know if you are still reading this but here goes.When I was 12 my Dad spent the weekends at my uncles place restoring vehicles. I thought the art of restoration at the time was boring and I was more interested in the machines my uncle had in his shop. Most of them all cam machines but he did have a hand lathe. I found a 2 inch piece of bar stock asked my uncle if it was any good. He checked it over and asked what I wanted it for. I then asked him if I could make a cannon out of it on his metal lathe. He perked up and told me to hold on a minute and he left the room coming back with a book about the civil war .He showed me the different cannons and asked me to pick the one I liked the most. I did and that was the one I was to make that day.he set his lathe up showed me how to turn and away I went . In the end It came out nice , only thing it was missing was the bore and a place for the fuse. He welded two drill bits together to reach where he knew was best leaving enough material on the end so it wouldnt be a pipe bomb , of course it wasnt that easy to drill even though it was mild steel the bit snapped off in the cannon and that seemed like hours of pounding to get it out . drilled the touch hole and bang I had myself a 50cal cannon .never did build the cradle though shot it several times and it works great .Painted it black recently and put it on the wood stove to cure it.made that 20yrs ago and seems like it was just yesterday. now for what you want to do your stock will work nicely, but boring that hole will be tough without the proper equipment.just need to bore it and drill a touch hole and you will be good to go if you havent already. 1
Sparx88 Posted August 25, 2015 Author Posted August 25, 2015 Thats pretty cool being taught lathe skills on a cannon build. I have one, but it is, well not operational for the time being. I was disabled a few years back and a lot of things, projects etc have been neglected. Even getting started on my cannon build in this thread. I got a buddy who has a auto machine shop and can bore it, round off the back and weld 1" trunions and polish it once I get an extra $100 bill. Thats a steal for the work to be done. My disability claim is still being reviewed and could take up to another year if they stretch it out on me. It's going on 2 years since I filed. lol Got denied, now have lawyer handling it. In my other thread in here about latest flash pot / thundermug, thats the same peice of stainless I talk about in this thread. I set it on top of the flash pot like you would with shooting anvils. I put 20 grams of my paulownia bp in the flash pot with both ends taped over and a fuse hole dead center on the side. First I tape the bottom then flip it over, stick fuse in, then powder, then tape over that. Set it on a steel plate, then set the stainless bar stock on it centered and leveled. You probably did'nt need me to explain it all like that, did it just in case anyone else reads this The video doesnt let you feel the shockwave it gives off even inside the house, it's like someone hit the floor with a sledgehammer, it's awsome. But yah, I'll get on it soon and get it finished and video up on it.
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