Veline Star Prime

[Shizznt]

I want to make an 8 ounce batch of veline stars, but I don't know how much super prime to put on the stars. Would I put 1 ounce of prime per 4 ounces of stars? Thanks.

 

 

 

 

-Ryan

[dan999ification]

I use 20% by weight of pinball prime for veline stars, I don't like the idea of using toxic chems.

 

But yes that should be plenty I can prime the pattie and finished stars with that amount.

 

Dan.

[Shizznt]

Thanks, I'll try using that amount.

 

 

-Ryan

[Pretty green flame]

Since pinball prime has been mentioned, i've primed 3 kilos of green stars with this prime. Now, I completely trust Lloyd Sponenburgh on the effectivenes of this prime, but I only get about 15-20% ignition of my stars. So i must be doing something wrong. Was the standard formula + 6% MagAl. Looks like the prime isn't igniting.

 

Should I be rolling on a second layer of BP+Metal composition?

 

Dan, do you roll on a second layer of BP?

[Mumbles]

I always put a layer of BP or green meal over the top of pinball prime just to ensure ignition. It'll ignite basically everything out of cylinder shells. For harder breaking ball shells, I find I have to roll a little thicker BP layer on top for good ignition. I included some additional information from Lloyd about the proper application for harder to light stars.

 

 

 

 

I might add that there's a technique to applying a prime to hard-to-light

stars. Merely "pasting" on a layer on the outside may not do the trick.

 

The proper way to do it is to use a common solvent to both the star and

the prime's binding system, then to significanly over-wet the stars

before the first prime layer, so they begin to "slime" themselves in a

dissolved layer of star composition.

 

To that wet slurry is added an amout of prime estimated to be about 25-

50% of the amount of slurry. With that you've built a mixed layer of

prime and star composition.

 

Then you begin to apply one or two more layers, slightly over-wet again,

but not to the degree of the first layer.

 

Finally, apply a layer of prime with the stars only just wet enough to

take it up.

 

I like, then, to apply a thin but dusty layer of rough hand-made powder

as an outer take-fire layer.

 

What you've done with all this is to build a step-prime system without

mixing star composition and prime before applying it.

 

LLoyd

[psyco_1322]

I've had good success just using fence post prime. It seems to light emerald/ruby and Klumac red/green stars, along with numerous other colors.

[dan999ification]

for cut stars I prime the pattie and then the stars after cutting, then I use half the remaining prime to make thin slurry, apply this to the dusty stars, then use the rest of the prime to coat again. if I have any bp fines I use these on the final layer mixed with the prime to give a rougher surface but for most of my stars using this technique will light them as the surface is rough enough. when I intend to break hard I add a pinch of ti[ 5%] in with the prime to almost guarantee that something hot is touching the star when it leaves the shell, stars with lots of ti in them light just fine in hard/boosted breaks [ for me] and don't usually need extra in the prime. for rolled stars I over wet them, apply prime, apply slurry, apply prime with fines or ti. bonding the prime to the star is important, if it will not light the star it is too thin or not hot enough. I basically use a combination between loyds recommendations and torro. apologies for the scattered post I cant enter/return. dan.

[Pretty green flame]

Thanks for the help Mumbles and Dan. My green stars are now lighting as they should. I've settled on 12.5% Pinball prime + 12.5% Green mix.

[ollie1016]

I cut my veline stars. Once they're cut, I chuck them all into a bowl of meal-d and roll them around a bit. Make sure they're not stuck together, then let them dry! Never failed me yet!

[Seymour]

Ollie, it really depends on how you use them. I'm going to take a big guess and assume you have not made a shell with a hard burst using stars so lightly primed. I'd be very surprised if cut stars with a light coating of Meal-D reliably lit in this instance. I

[ollie1016]

Ollie, it really depends on how you use them. I'm going to take a big guess and assume you have not made a shell with a hard burst using stars so lightly primed. I'd be very surprised if cut stars with a light coating of Meal-D reliably lit in this instance. I

 

That's very fair to say. I probably should have put some more information in my previous post.

 

I currently only make 2" ball and canister shells. Ite quite hard to get a good break, and a hard break!

 

 

[Seymour]

There is nothing wrong with light priming if you can get away with it! Depending on the size of the largest BP particles in the Meal A, I would expect that they would stick in to the surface of the star sufficiently to be much more effective at lighting it than a similar quantity of mill dust prime.

 

I actually think that this sort of priming is somewhat under used. I hope my first comment did not come across as overly negative, I don't want you to stop doing this or experimenting with alternatives of step priming.

 

For 2" shells I typically give up on the symmetry and just fill the case with stars, fill the gaps between the stars with grain BP and then add a few grams of good flash. While all I get is a splash, it's quite bright with all the stars, and can burst very wide if you want it (say, 6g flash). I think this has it's place, especially as inserts, it's nowhere as pretty or impressive as a good peony. I'm often impressed with the quality of the small shells many people make, perfect versions of some larger shells!

[Shizznt]

Would pinball or fence post prime work better than super prime and would I have to add a layer of bp on the super prime?