mormanman Posted July 3, 2008 Posted July 3, 2008 Cut my finger. Thats about it, its deep. Went to the ER and they wouldn't stitch it up so my mom cleaned it and dressed it. Don't worry she was a nurse in the ER for like 6 to 10 years and an EMT for about the same. EMT first though, now she's a Nurse manager. I think I'll be fine.
Swede Posted July 3, 2008 Posted July 3, 2008 Charlie, that is HORRIBLE! God Bless that family... too sad. Mormanman, whenever I get a deep cut I don't want to stitch, I use superglue - cyanoacrylte adhesive to close the wound. It works, is a legit medical technique, and is also done in battlefield and other places. Be sure it's cleaned well, though! I was once taking apart a weed whacker. Inside the rope starter is a recoil spring made of ribbon steel. That bad boy unwound at high velocity, and only my finger-bone stopped it from removing my index finger. When you look in a wound and see bone, it's freaky. I remember thinking "If I don't sit down and lower my head, I am going to pass out." Almost puked from the shock. Believe it or not, I CA'd the wound shut and it healed perfectly.
mormanman Posted July 3, 2008 Posted July 3, 2008 Swede, we did something similar to that but they're called Stery Strips. Strong as Super glue. She uses them all the time.
pudidotdk Posted July 3, 2008 Posted July 3, 2008 Interesting! Thanks for the tip, not fun to have the stuff near your eyes though, had some vapours near the eyes and I can't recommend it.
mormanman Posted July 3, 2008 Posted July 3, 2008 Oh, eyes. Bad stuff, I've had slag from welding, break cleaner, and Iso. Alcohol. Burn like crazy.
justanotherpyro Posted July 4, 2008 Posted July 4, 2008 Superglue was originally designed for open heart surgeries. As soon as I heard that I was sold and have been supergluing cuts for years. Just don't squirt it IN then wound try and just keep it on the epidermis. Stery strips are the way to go too. My brother had a little mishap with a boat propeller when we were younger and a few stery strips took care of the 6" gash in his head until we got him to the hospital.
DIYMark Posted July 4, 2008 Posted July 4, 2008 Charlie, that is HORRIBLE! God Bless that family... too sad. Mormanman, whenever I get a deep cut I don't want to stitch, I use superglue - cyanoacrylte adhesive to close the wound. It works, is a legit medical technique, and is also done in battlefield and other places. Be sure it's cleaned well, though! I was once taking apart a weed whacker. Inside the rope starter is a recoil spring made of ribbon steel. That bad boy unwound at high velocity, and only my finger-bone stopped it from removing my index finger. When you look in a wound and see bone, it's freaky. I remember thinking "If I don't sit down and lower my head, I am going to pass out." Almost puked from the shock. Believe it or not, I CA'd the wound shut and it healed perfectly. Lol Swede the medic Once when i was like 14 (I think) I was making bow and arrow (didnt we all at that age) and I was using a utility knife (DOH!) to cut small sticks off and the bark. Later it turns out I cut myself 17mm deep across the fleshy part below my thumb. The cut was 65mm long and 17mm deep (blood line on the blade ) and needed 15 stiches (7 of which were on the inside. I missed my thumbs main nerve by like 1mm acording to the Doc so that was lucky I didnt need micro surgery. On a few occasions pre surgery they needed to "inspect" the cut and man it was gross. Tendons ans muscle made me sick and Im not the one to thorw up easily at all! Also I needed a half cast for my arm to keep the cut still. This would have to be the worst thing I've done yet. But anyway its long gone by now. Actually recently Ive been making a new ball mill (Ill have a thread up later) and I was maching 60mm bronze sqaure bar for the bearing mounts. As I was sanding the inside my knucle was caught by the rotating 90 degree edges on the block and ouch! What made the whole boring the 60mm bar point less was the fact that when I tired to part the mounts off; my lathe sh!t its self. Its a 9 X 20 lathe so parting 60mm bronze is a huge task but it turned out to be a bit too big of a job. My parting tool was ground correctly and so was the centre height. Everything was tightened up and even still it would dig in a cause massive chatter - lathe is just too small I guess (flexes to easily) So now its back to bored out hard wood blocks as bearing mounts. Anyway the ball mill turned out great and Ill have some pics up soon!
frogy Posted July 4, 2008 Posted July 4, 2008 Heh. A few years back I was cutting branches off a large tree to throw into my whimpy Toyota Tacoma bed... I slipped off the tree branch and sawed into my finger, down to the bone with my Bow saw without realizing... I was 1 muscle layer above my down, so there was no chipping (per my neighbor EMT). I just cleaned it with 100% ethanol (youch) and closed it with Cyanoacrylte.... Was on the verge of passing out from shock from the time I looked down and saw my whole arm covered in blood, and I was holding my hand into the air... Blood dripping onto my face. I went to the neighbors and he thought I murdered someone No stitches. Healed perfectly.
mormanman Posted July 4, 2008 Posted July 4, 2008 Alcohol probably wasn't the best choice unless you use friction along with it. Other wise it just makes you scream. Anyway, one time me and my brother were out in the backyard cutting down bamboo. I was using the saws all and he was using the hedge trimmer. So I was like I'll race you, you cut down one and I'll cut down five. I won. I left to go do something else, I think put the tool away, and he decides (to this day I have no idea why) put his fingers in the way of the blades. Cuts him right open. My mom takes him to the hospital and he get like 6 stitches in three fingers. Always remember what they teach you in boy scouts, Cover, apply pressure and elevate. If you can't cover it, skip that or cover with your hand.
Swede Posted July 4, 2008 Posted July 4, 2008 Depression is... Working all morning on a couple of 1.75" shells; crafting, pasting, (I still don't know if it will work), etc, and later walking into your local 1.4g fireworks "mega-stand" and seeing the same damned shell for A BUCK. Happiness is... Knowing that you made it yourself.
tentacles Posted July 4, 2008 Posted July 4, 2008 Actually recently Ive been making a new ball mill (Ill have a thread up later) and I was maching 60mm bronze sqaure bar for the bearing mounts. As I was sanding the inside my knucle was caught by the rotating 90 degree edges on the block and ouch! What made the whole boring the 60mm bar point less was the fact that when I tired to part the mounts off; my lathe sh!t its self. Its a 9 X 20 lathe so parting 60mm bronze is a huge task but it turned out to be a bit too big of a job. My parting tool was ground correctly and so was the centre height. Everything was tightened up and even still it would dig in a cause massive chatter - lathe is just too small I guess (flexes to easily) So now its back to bored out hard wood blocks as bearing mounts. Anyway the ball mill turned out great and Ill have some pics up soon! Your 9x20 should be able to handle that with a well ground tool, in a strong holder done in low gear. Just do it in steps. My 7x12 could part 60mm bronze (probably not aluminum bronze but I doubt that's what you've got if you were able to bore it out). You gotta set it up for it, only extend the cutoff tool out maybe 5mm at a time, cut to that depth, and then extend it again, etc. Since the bar is bored out (whatever size) it should really not be a big deal. The 9x20 can't be *that* flimsy. Cutoff tools are a bitch to get well sharpened. Sometimes you just have to live with chatter on a difficult/big cut and plow through. If the whole tool/post/carriage is diving down though, I'd look to find out why. Me, I think I'd have cut the bar with a saw and then faced it in the lathe. Can't wait to try out the Myford.
DIYMark Posted July 5, 2008 Posted July 5, 2008 Actually recently Ive been making a new ball mill (Ill have a thread up later) and I was maching 60mm bronze sqaure bar for the bearing mounts. As I was sanding the inside my knucle was caught by the rotating 90 degree edges on the block and ouch! What made the whole boring the 60mm bar point less was the fact that when I tired to part the mounts off; my lathe sh!t its self. Its a 9 X 20 lathe so parting 60mm bronze is a huge task but it turned out to be a bit too big of a job. My parting tool was ground correctly and so was the centre height. Everything was tightened up and even still it would dig in a cause massive chatter - lathe is just too small I guess (flexes to easily) So now its back to bored out hard wood blocks as bearing mounts. Anyway the ball mill turned out great and Ill have some pics up soon! Your 9x20 should be able to handle that with a well ground tool, in a strong holder done in low gear. Just do it in steps. My 7x12 could part 60mm bronze (probably not aluminum bronze but I doubt that's what you've got if you were able to bore it out). You gotta set it up for it, only extend the cutoff tool out maybe 5mm at a time, cut to that depth, and then extend it again, etc. Since the bar is bored out (whatever size) it should really not be a big deal. The 9x20 can't be *that* flimsy. Cutoff tools are a bitch to get well sharpened. Sometimes you just have to live with chatter on a difficult/big cut and plow through. If the whole tool/post/carriage is diving down though, I'd look to find out why. Me, I think I'd have cut the bar with a saw and then faced it in the lathe. Can't wait to try out the Myford. Ill check my tool post and the rake on the bit (should be zero degrees for bronze/brass inst it?). Anyway thanks for giving me hope. Now instead of "accepting" the lathe cant do it I know that somethings not right
tentacles Posted July 5, 2008 Posted July 5, 2008 According to this document (http://www.scielo.cl/pdf/ingeniare/v15n2/art11.pdf) a 40 degree rake proved most effective in their tests.. I've tried a 0 rake and even negative rake (which I have heard recommended for brass) and for me positive rake always worked best. Have not cut a lot of brass on the lathe, though. This document (http://www.metalartspress.com/PDFs/Sharpening_Steel_Lathe_Tools.pdf) recommends a 0 back rake and specifies other parameters for brass/bronze but it's interesting that copper gets a 16 deg back rake. I'd suggest trying a few degrees of back rake. Try using a carbide tool if you have one.
DIYMark Posted July 5, 2008 Posted July 5, 2008 Thanks for those links; they were a good read. Next time I have a moment Ill try out some new rake angles and see whats the result. Also what RPM would you suggest (if you would have any idea)?
Swede Posted July 5, 2008 Posted July 5, 2008 Rake angles... published "ideal" rake angles are aimed at industry, where it is assumed your machine weighs 4 tons and has a 15 hp spindle. The correct rake angle varies according to several parameters... 1) The material being cut.2) The composition of the toolbit, HSS vs sintered carbide3) The power of the machine4) The mass/rigidity of the machine For #1, your rake will want to be INCREASED from 0 (or negative) to highly postive, along these lines... Low Rake: Cu alloys -- cast iron -- steels -- aluminum alloys :high Rake #2 - Carbide tools generally prefer a lesser rake, HSS tools, more rake, for best performance. #3,4 High-powered machines can tolerate lower rake angles better than home machines. For production, you will generally get a better finish with a lower rake angle and a toolbit with a larger tip radius, but this requires power and rigidity/mass; the latter two go hand in hand, usually, and most home machines lack both. It can all get pretty complicated, but it can be simplified like this... home shop lathes (anything less than 1,000 lb) are best run with higher rake angles, because a higher rake reduces the HP requirement, the cutting forces go way down, and there is a lesser chance of pushing (springing) the work AWAY from the bit. Higher rake allows you to have a more rounded tool tip, which promotes a better, more even finish. For aluminum on a lighter machine, up to 40 degrees is acceptable, but I prefer around 25. The big caveat with high rake is the tendency of the tool tip to dig in and gouge the work. And for brass, bronze, or copper, I always use zero rake. Cu alloys have a really nasty tendency to dig in. I'm sure many here have drilled holes in brass sheet, and at a certain point in the drilling, the bit self-drives, pulls the sheet off the table, and tries to sling it around. Nasty stuff. For this reason, many pros hand-stone their drill bits, and reduce the rake angle of the lips, turning them into dedicated brass drill. A lot of hobby lathes come with brazed carbide bits. These bits are TERRIBLE for a light home machine, because they are usually 0 or negative rake, have bad geometry, and really push the work away from the tool. This results in a ragged, uneven cut. I always recommend getting a selection of high-speed steel blank lathe toolbits, and learning to grind your own. They are not expensive, and a little practice will have you making bits shaped the way YOU want them, and they'll outperform the brazed carbide bits all day long on a 9" lathe. I have learned so much from helpful people here on Pyro issues, and I'd love to return the favor. If anyone has questions on machining, PM me and I will be happy to help. I have been machining a long time, and have enjoyed doing it. It has been a major part of my life.
Pretty green flame Posted July 5, 2008 Author Posted July 5, 2008 Just found out that Don S. Davies died Damn, good actor, always enjoyed watching Stargate with Davis as general Hammond, shame shame shame
ULTRABUF Posted July 5, 2008 Posted July 5, 2008 Oh man, that sucks. I LOVE Stargate. My mom has seasons 1-6 and 9 &10. I've been waiting to watch nine and ten till after Ive seen 7 and 8. RIP general Hammond.
AprenticeChemist Posted July 7, 2008 Posted July 7, 2008 WARNING A DUMB DEPRESSIOn rant Well i got a pretty good depression thing. Hows having to sleep in your car because your mom doesn't want to make her boyfriends daughter "uncomfortable". This dumb bitch girl made up some lies about how I touched her and shit, everyone fucking takes her side over mine because shes been raped before so poor innocent her she could never do a horrible thing like lie about this shit. Well the girls been living with my girlfriend because they were friends and I moved out from my girlfriends house. So I beens taying with my mom till i get my own place this week. Now the bitch decides to come back to my moms house and guess who has to leave ME. So I have no where to stay, My girlfriends mom doesn't like me because they belive im a molesting asshole because of this lying bitch, and my best friend just had a kid and works tommorow so don't wanta bug him and well i don't feel like explaining this shit to my grandma. So my mom finds out im sleeping in my car and she says "well you can just sleep here in the living room i guess because if you sleep in your car its going to make *lying bitch* feel bad" Now am i just crazy or is that fucked up the only reason im allowed to stay inside is because it might make this lying bitch feel bad that i have to sleep outside because shes turned everyone against me. So what ever sorry for the useless rant fuck it all, ill feel better in the morning.
Boomer Posted July 7, 2008 Posted July 7, 2008 Sorry I can imagine how that feels.... Once had a pack of parents come over me like a hurricane when I got out of the bus home from work. Turned out I had been "following their daughter around" and had been "lurking in front of her school, gotten into her bus and followed her home" for several month. Of course her friend and the bus driver could second that. Quite some evidence I would say. Did I mention she lived within pellet gun range from my flat, and went to school in the next city, with the bus stop in sight from where I worked? What a fucking coincidence I waited there and used the same bus home. But who believes a child molester? If I hadn't been such a nice guy I might have gotten the idea to go out and do rape her, so she hasn't invented the story for nothing.I mean, after the misunderstanding has been solved, who will believe a hysteric story-inventing bitch ?
_DB_ Posted July 7, 2008 Posted July 7, 2008 If I hadn't been such a nice guy I might have gotten the idea to go out and do rape her, so she hasn't invented the story for nothing. So great.
Mumbles Posted July 14, 2008 Posted July 14, 2008 The pyro video gods thwarted me again. As usual, my best and only properly functioning shell of the evening, managed to ellude video cameras. I believe there was a picture of it. Let me tell you, when they say a 4" spider shell breaks like a 6" chrysanthemum they're not kidding around.
flying fish Posted July 14, 2008 Posted July 14, 2008 Tomorrow is my first day back at school in Flint (yes, I go to school during the summer, not to mention in a city where there are daily murders!). So, I can only work on pyro during the weekend when I go back home (not that anything has changed...I couldn't work on pyro when I was working in Ann Arbor either). I just wish I had more of a break between work and school. I had the 4th of july off, and a few other days that week as well, but nothing more. Even simple ground testing of tiny quantities of color stars would make me the happiest guy on campus, but something tells me that I would get expelled and arrested for terrorism should I attempt any such thing! Well, I guess it is off to bed for me. I have an 8:00 AM class tomorrow, and one that I'm not exactly excited about either.
ULTRABUF Posted July 14, 2008 Posted July 14, 2008 Let me tell you, when they say a 4" spider shell breaks like a 6" chrysanthemum they're not kidding around. Did you use one of those spider formulas you posted in the comp database? And for a spider shell is a hard break or a soft break preferable?
Frozentech Posted July 14, 2008 Posted July 14, 2008 Did you use one of those spider formulas you posted in the comp database? And for a spider shell is a hard break or a soft break preferable? a Spider Web shell uses a really hard break with a flash bag, so that stars streak out fast with no drooping. The stars are (traditionally) charcoal streamer type comps.
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