Baldor Posted April 2, 2018 Posted April 2, 2018 Look at the brand in the link I posted.... I didn´t know this brand until today :-)
lloyd Posted April 2, 2018 Posted April 2, 2018 Yeah, I saw it. Baldor makes good motors. I use them! But it IS funny! <grin> Lloyd
Simoski Posted April 3, 2018 Posted April 3, 2018 (edited) : ) so I think I need a 23 is that like 1 pound / half a kg? Does it do 300 / 400 rpm, thats kinda where I am aiming. Thats kinda the right ballpark right? ( I know you guys like football, baseball etc and we dig cricket and rugby , just hope its more or less the right ballpark ) Edited April 3, 2018 by Simoski
lloyd Posted April 3, 2018 Posted April 3, 2018 Simoski,The frame size probably doesn't matter much. I doubt NEMA 11 size motors would offer enough power, but a size 23 (or up) should. However, I don't think I'd be choosing a particular speed until you've verified that it'll work at a certain speed. You could use a stepper or a DC motor, and you'd be able to freely vary the speed over quite a range. The nice thing about the NEMA standard is that you can pretty-much freely exchange motor types of the same frame size. That gives you lots of flexibility in designing. Lloyd
Lozzard Posted April 4, 2018 Posted April 4, 2018 Have a look on Wish,com for 12v motors I used a 33rpm one for my main drive and a 3rpm motor to wind the receiver drum.I turned the spindles on a mini lathe with the belt drive groove on the bottom ,I used a hole saw to cut the pulleys and grooved them out on a drill press. Rubber slingshot lengths were used to drive the pulleys and a small piece of leather cord pushed up the cavity of the slingshot rubber to keep it all nice and tight , it also has good friction to drive the spindles ,turned out really well .Just not as cool as Twigs because it was all made from timber Loz
patsroom Posted April 5, 2018 Posted April 5, 2018 It really don't have to look pretty. It just have to work right...........Pat 1
Simoski Posted April 7, 2018 Posted April 7, 2018 Howsit! Thanks guys... I'm gonna try finish up... its been a while since I printed/modeled anything. My plan is to go with what I have on hand vis a vis the motor I will design the nema bracket / housing later. And provide that as part of the printable files at the end.Today its pulley day!!! , Lets get this sucker to spin...
Simoski Posted April 7, 2018 Posted April 7, 2018 here is how I modeled the dual motor pulley...now to slice and print it....
lloyd Posted April 7, 2018 Posted April 7, 2018 Some day, when I "don't have anything to do" (hah!), I'm going to haul out my ViaCad Pro, and re-learn all over again how to do 3D modeling. The nature of virtually all of my work is that simple 2D CAD and 2.5D CAM systems suffice. So even though I own a real 'solid modeling' product, I don't have the opportunity to use it enough to stay current. Your files and the progressive way you went about it are pretty neat! Lloyd
Baldor Posted April 7, 2018 Posted April 7, 2018 I spent almost twenty rears modelling moulds in 3D. Mostly for cars taillights. If I start modelling again, I will miss the powerful parametric and assembly capabilities of CATIA V5.
Simoski Posted April 7, 2018 Posted April 7, 2018 Your files and the progressive way you went about it are pretty neat! I'm glad you enjoyed it : )
Simoski Posted April 7, 2018 Posted April 7, 2018 I spent almost twenty rears modelling moulds in 3D. Mostly for cars taillights. If I start modelling again, I will miss the powerful parametric and assembly capabilities of CATIA V5.Is that still on the market Baldor? is it expensive?
Simoski Posted April 7, 2018 Posted April 7, 2018 Ok so I finished todays dual pulley print and added it to the motor and its housing and took a photo... 1
Baldor Posted April 7, 2018 Posted April 7, 2018 It is very, very expensive, out of reach of mere mortals.
lloyd Posted April 7, 2018 Posted April 7, 2018 Simoski,That motor mount design 'troubles' me in a technical sense. YES, those motors are ventilated, and yes, you've provided openings for the vents (and that's important, so 'good'). But they also cool themselves by radiation from the metal housing; and you've got all the metal housing surfaces (except a little around the vents) covered with non-heat conductive plastic. I would fear that, in continuous duty, those motors would overheat -- even considering your venting. They might get hot enough to soften the mount. Lloyd
Baldor Posted April 7, 2018 Posted April 7, 2018 I will also fear the belts can slip out of the grooves. All round belt pulleys I have seen, the grooves are at least 3/4 the belt diameter deep, or one diameter. Do you have any reference for the motor? (Should be printed in the case)
lloyd Posted April 7, 2018 Posted April 7, 2018 Baldor,I have a sense he'll be 'post-machining' those pulleys to smooth their surfaces. He'd be able to deepen them at that point in the construction. Lloyd
Baldor Posted April 7, 2018 Posted April 7, 2018 Maybe. The point of 3D printing is to avoid further machining. Usually, 3D printed parts are smoothed with acetone vapour (Depending the plastic used). I have seen very nice finishes with this treatment., If I was doing something like this, and didn't had acces to a lathe, I will visit the sewing machine repairman, the oldest the repairman, the better. :-)
lloyd Posted April 7, 2018 Posted April 7, 2018 Yeah, but if he doesn't have an acetone vapour 'smoother', then he must rely on mechanical 'cleaning up' of the parts. So far, I don't think we know what he has -- only that the surfaces of the pulleys are not suitable for long-term life of belts! <grin> Rather more important - in my perception - is that I think the motor is 'under-cooled', and will either damage itself or the holding structure. Lloyd
Baldor Posted April 7, 2018 Posted April 7, 2018 Yep. Without the datasheet of the motor, imposible to think of a good holder. I imagine it will have some threads in the front face. 3D printing is not the solution for all. Sometimes it's easier and a better solution to use a saw and a drill. Have a hammer at hand for unexpected challenges.
fredjr Posted April 9, 2018 Posted April 9, 2018 The acetone vapor treatment only works for ABS. No special equipment needed, dutch oven style pan with cover and a hotplate. For anyone wanting to play with 3D modeling I recommend trying www.tinkercad.com It is so simple to use I let my grandkids make models with it to print on my printer. It actually is also surprisingly powerful and is my choice for all but the most complex models.
chuckufarley Posted April 9, 2018 Posted April 9, 2018 Just out of curiosity. What printer are you using for this project?
fredjr Posted April 12, 2018 Posted April 12, 2018 Just for fun did a similar pulley using simplify3d a Lulzbot taz 5 .5mm nozzle .2mm layer ABS plastic - drawn with tinkercad in less than 2 minutes (dimensions are not what this project specs)... anyways here are pics before and after an acetone vapor bath... recommend looking at your extrude factor and coast at end settingshttp://www.pyrobin.com/files/P_20180410_072608.jpghttp://www.pyrobin.com/files/P_20180410_073324.jpg
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