How prime cylindrical stars ?

[Jordan123]

As for priming with black powder, I always use green mix + 10% silicon about 4oz prime for 16oz composition.

 

I see some talking about meal bp for priming, is it better then green mix for this purpose? I tought meal would burn too fast and may not ignite the stars?

 

What the composition of the green mix and BP meal ? please

[fredhappy]

BP is too fast for use as prime. Prime should be preferably greenmix+ some additives. Fencepost is a good prime , I use it myself. Just mill the KNO3 as fine as possible and screen in the other ingredients.

 

Prime should burn a bit slow to pass the fire reliable.Especially with high speed breaks you want a prime burns relatively slow so it can burn long enough to ignite the star. Stepprime works also very well and reliable and omits the need for special primes etc. For most coloured star formulas fencepost+stepprime will work just fine. For barium nitrate stars such as strobe you need a different solution.

[Jordan123]

Can yu give me the composition of the green mix and BP meal ?

And, what th composition for the stroboscope prime ? Beacause i have strobe strars

[Mumbles]

Honestly, if you can't find the formula for black powder, you might want to find another hobby. Green meal and bp meal are the same formula.

[Jordan123]

I know the formula BP ^^ but, "meal" i don't know and green too

[FlaMtnBkr]

I'm assuming you are having problems because of your English and not because you are young.

 

Green mix and BP meal are both black powder at different stages in a 75-15-10 ratio. Green mix is all the chemicals screened together and not milled so it is slow burning. BP meal is the same thing but milled to a fine powder so it burns faster.

[Jordan123]

Ok, i'm sorry , yes i have a very bad english :/

And me, i must use the green mix for my stars ?

 

The green mix is the best formula for prime the stars ?

[Mumbles]

You might want to spend a little time working on your English. This hobby is quite unforgiving. If you miss an important point or piece of safety information due to a language barrier, it could be very bad.

[FlaMtnBkr]

It depends on the star. If it is easy to light then the green mix will work. Charcoal, glitter, some colors, and chlorate stars should be easy to light. But don't use chlorate unless you know all the precautions. Harder to light stars need a hotter prime. Green mix with an additional +5-8% metal should light most other hard to light stars. The metal can be aluminum, magnalium, or silicon. Some harder to light stars are strobe and high metal content "mag" stars.

 

If you tell us what you are having a problem with and the formula, we can recommend a prime better.

[Jordan123]

Hi,

 

I make stars with perchlorate - magnialum ; Strobe stars ; Glitter stars

[Jordan123]

Hi guys !

 

I have a good new

I have try lot of technical for apply the prime and i have selected the good prime for my stars.

 

Today, i have test all method, and lot of prime, the best prime is :

 

1 coating -> Hot prime

2 coating -> BP meal granulated

 

ignites is very very good, but this method is not very well for produce a lot of stars...

( I put my stars in the liquid very hot prime and after, i put my stars i granulated BP )

 

I will test this : i put my stars in the stars roller and i add Hot prime, i wait my stars dry and after i add the second coating with BP meal not granulated

I have already roll the cylindrical stars in stars roller and it's good method.

[daniroor]

Hello

 

I do stars with base to Chlorate. These are cylindrical and the first priming is a cap of black powder without sulphur (70-30). The stars dry and then a cap more of black powder normal composition 75-15-10.

 

Till now no problem and it has improved the ignition. But the worry stays for being of chlorate.

 

Someone does some recommendation. Thank you.

[Eaglefireworks]

Till now no problem and it has improved the ignition. But the worry stays for being of chlorate.

 

The potassium perchlorate based prime works as a good chemical barrier,The stars are first primed with the potssium perchlorate prime, and secondly with a potassium nitrate based prime if needed. This way a barrier and prime is applied at the same time.One draw back is that a prime based on potassium perchlorate may be hard to light (ofca chlorate prime lights easily). And a second prime ontop is sometimes needed.

prime your star with ofca chlorate prime and then finish with black powder prime.

 

ofca chlorate prime-

KCLO4-65

Charcoal airfloat-30

Dextrin-5

 

-Eagle.

[daniroor]

Thank you.

 

But just now I do not have perchlorate, only I have nitrate.

The only solution that I saw was BP without asufre.

I wait for everything work well.

[Zumber]

Hello

 

I do stars with base to Chlorate. These are cylindrical and the first priming is a cap of black powder without sulphur (70-30). The stars dry and then a cap more of black powder normal composition 75-15-10.

 

Till now no problem and it has improved the ignition. But the worry stays for being of chlorate.

 

Someone does some recommendation. Thank you.

yes thats fine.

[Mraliksr]

i used Red Star formula for making round stars and animal glue with water for binding use hot prime and final black powder i used this stars in fire cake shell problem star not light or get ignition few stars get fire i am very upset request to all member kindly solve my problem thanks

 

potassium chlorate 20

formula strontium nitrate 60

shellac 20

 

thanks

Mraliksr

[Arthur]

Is that the star formula?

[memo]

Red Star, Hardt #2, Table 15-9

http://www.fireworking.com/sites/all/modules/print/icons/print_icon.pngPrinter-friendly version

Categories:

Star

Chemical Percent/Parts Amount Potassium chlorate 0.630 Strontium Carbonate 0.180 Red gum 0.140 Dextrin 0.050

Total

Type:

Red Non-Metallic Fueled

I use shellac instead of red gum , black powder prime, it llights very easy

[Bigmark]

Ned Gorski has a really good video on this subject.

[ronmoper76]

I use a star plate to and i use monacapa prime which works with one layer and nothing else in my own experience usually. I dump them in a bowl mist the hell out of them and sprinkle toss,sprinkle toss,etc just like your tossing a salad or food in a bowl. its quite easy,makes them perfectly round and very fast, and once i get a nice thick layer built up in the bowl i break out the chunks and throw em in my ball mill to use on the next batch of stars.i make 4lbs at a time and it seems to work great,press them one night,dry under a fan till the next night,toss in a bowl till they are primed put back under the fan till next night. i use a alcohol/water mix and i never have mixes overheat as long as i use the alcohol,i also use a phenolic binder.

Edited March 8, 2021 by ronmoper76

[ronmoper76]

I just learned how to make a liquor with a binder and it is by far the fastest easiest way I have found. I dip a whole basket down in it,shake off the excess and pour in a sheet tray lined with dry prime. Its almost like a glue and a few rolls of the tray back and forth and they are primed nice,thick,and light perfectly. I primed 6lbs the other day in 20 minutes. I couldn't believe how much better it was from the stupid shit I recommended before

I didn't use a fraction as much prime either.

Edited April 27, 2021 by ronmoper76

[MadMat]

Achieving 100% ignition of your stars seems to be a problem that everyone goes through at one time or another. The first step that made a significant difference for me was when I started using this formula for a "hot prime" 71 Potassium perchlorate, 14 charcoal, 9 red gum, 5 magnalium, 3 dextrin (or SGRS), 4 silicon. Though this prime formula improved my ignition rate dramatically, I still had lingering problems with some blind blown stars. I finally solved the problem by adding a second layer of prime consisting of mill dust BP with an additional 4% dextrin added. One thing to remember about prime layers is that while a smooth coating looks good, a rough coating of prime actually works better. After I utilized these steps I achieved 100% ignition of my stars all the time.

Edited April 30, 2021 by MadMat

[Carbon796]

I just learned how to make a liquor with a binder and it is by far the fastest easiest way I have found. I dip a whole basket down in it,shake off the excess and pour in a sheet tray lined with dry prime. Its almost like a glue and a few rolls of the tray back and forth and they are primed nice,thick,and light perfectly. I primed 6lbs the other day in 20 minutes. I couldn't believe how much better it was from the stupid shit I recommended before

I didn't use a fraction as much prime either.

That's a pretty common method for larger star/comets. But, for smaller/lighter stars/comets it can be more frustrating. If they don't have enough mass, to not clump together. Edited April 28, 2021 by Carbon796

[ronmoper76]

I was using super fine pine sawdust added to my prime,similar to the veline system and when I ran out I kinda suspected what you just said. Mill dust is so DAMN fine it does leave a undesirable smooth surface but I never got around to working out a solution. I had planned on granulating some of my BP through something like a 20 mesh screen and use the granules as my final layer. Up to this point I have been using monocapa prime by itself and have had very good LUCK but I know eventually I'm gonna need a better process for some stuff. I primed a bunch of crackle the same way and it definitely did want to clump a lot but I managed to work with it. Edited April 28, 2021 by ronmoper76

[Arthur]

Simple question (ha!). Has anyone tried prepping a tool full of powder, lightly pressing it, then adding a layer of a prime comp and pressing it all? Maybe it's a way to add a precise bit of prime to one end of a cylinder star.