built myself a ball mill

[jacob]

mormanman, I use a motor just like that on my mill, what you probably have is a two speed, capacitor start, thermally protected motor.

 

first, find the thermal overload switch (it's a little box that shuts the motor off if it gets too hot) it should have two wires in it, you don't use those. if it doesn't have one don't worry about it,

 

Next there should be, a wire for ground, a wire for high speed, a wire for low speed, and two wires for the starting capacitor, (which you also don't need, but the motor won't have much starting power)

 

The speeds should be listed on the motor somewere.

 

the only way I know of to find out which wire is which is by process of elimination, but in general red is hot, and black or green is ground.

 

Good luck, let us know how it goes.

[mormanman]

Thank you both, but (and I hate asking to be spoon fed) how do you attach the switch? I am still so confused and I'll look for that stuff tonight.

 

Thanks again.

 

Edit++++++++

Never mind I think I figured it out. I'll post back tonight or tomorrow.

 

 

Edit(again)+++++++++++++

Tomorrow (Look up if you don't understand.)

Yeah I tried everything and I finally got power to the motor but it didn't spin near as fast as anything and after a while it started to smoke.

Any suggestions?

[marks265]

Yeah, I suppose with a little work and ingenuity it could be modified to turn multiple barrels at once.  You'd have to cut the end off, and replace the drive rod with a longer one.  It looks to be approximatly 1/2" on mine.  You could probably use the end you cut off to hold the longer bars by mounting the whole thing on a sheet of plywood. 

 

4" PVC could be used to make the additional barrels.

 

Now, this is how you COULD modify it.  I'm not saying that the motor could handle it, though it seems that it probably could.

Hey remember this (I'm not blaming) well yeah I tried something like it and so I attached the big pulley to the motor and the little pulley for the one to spin the shaft. Guess what I cut a big hole it the side to fit the big pulley on the motor and the big pulley spun just fine but the little pulley wouldn't even move the hole thing locked up so I had to put it all back together. The motor is for speed not power (I think).

Maybe someone can tell me how to boost the power for the motor?

Any suggestion, I willing to try (if logical).

mormanman

 

Usually the smaller pulley goes on the motor. If you have it the other way the motor may be working way too hard.

[jacob]

Yeah I tried everything and I finally got power to the motor but it didn't spin near as fast as anything and after a while it started to smoke.

 

My guess is you ran power to both the forward and backward inputs on the motor at the same time, one slightly overcame the other but there was too much load on the whole thing and it overheated.

 

I had the same thing happen to me at first, I bet a picture of the motor would help though.

[mormanman]

Mark, I do have a small pulley one the motor but I have nothing for the motor to push. Here are the Pictures. The yellow wire (if you can see it) is the live wire

http://i27.tinypic.com/j0cy7m.jpg

http://i25.tinypic.com/2qa3ew4.jpg

http://i25.tinypic.com/2ibhlcn.jpg

http://i29.tinypic.com/2wrq0kk.jpg

[Miech]

You kinda (word starting with an F) up the lay-out...

 

Anyway, the little piece of axis coming out of the back of your motor is intended to carry a fan. You have a brushless motor, and these things are often getting quite hot. Note there is a lot of dust on the back of the motor, it clearly shows in what direction the air flow used to move.

 

The huge advantage of these types of motors is that they are practically indestructable and maintenance free (not mentioning 4 drops of oil a year for the bearings). The disadvantage is that the speed isn't controllable without expensive equipment such as frequency controllers.

[FrankRizzo]

That motor was original designed for a Whirlpool washer. The switch on top (62850) will have to be wired so that the proper cycle feedback is emulated. Spin cyle would be the obvious choice.

 

Cycle Timing

[marks265]

Ah oh yes I thinks I see the light. You are trying the go fast and slow and maybe more at the same time. The capacitor seems to be a start capacitor because you have a speed switch (the red box thingy). I can only say the because you should check out this link;

 

http://fixitnow.com/images/wiringdiagrams/...irediagram.html

 

From a few miles away I would start here and verify how it is wired.

 

Good luck to ya

[FrankRizzo]

Mark's absolutely right. If that diagram doesn't help you, donate a few dollars to the samurai beer fund and post a message on the fixitnow.com forums. That place is full of guys who love to help people with appliance problems...you'll have an answer within a few hrs if not minutes. Plus, the account will be infinitely useful if you ever have any other appliance problems down the road.

 

 

Motor Windings Test

[mormanman]

Guys I thank you all for the help and I'm trying to sign up for that forum but when I say I don't know anything about electrons like I only no about lighting (just a little though). So I am struck dumb when I see that wiring sheet map thing.

 

Still thanks.

[FrankRizzo]

Mormanman,

 

I've posted a thread for you over on the fixitnow.com forums. Can you take a few more photos of the wiring harness area without your alligator-clip connections, with the wire colors clearly visible? Also, if you could use a night portrait mode or change your exposure compensation to -2EV, it would help immensely with the over exposure from the flash.

 

Here's the thread:

http://applianceguru.com/forum2/15785.html

[mormanman]

I hope this helps clear things ups.

http://i27.tinypic.com/nvt9wn.jpg

http://i30.tinypic.com/28u1zph.jpg

[marks265]

OK M-man I will try to walk you through it.

 

I liked Franks link to the "timing circuit" much more readable!

 

The last pic posted can be deleted as it does not help at all. The picture with the connector removed is the one I will refer to first. These are the motor leads that go to the lower terminal strip. It looks like there are just two open terminals on the right side. The first one from the right should have the black wire on it. The second from right should be a white wire with a violet strip coming from motor. The white wire with an orange stripe can be wire nutted and taped off as a no connection. Lastly it looks like a white wire with a long plastic connector on the end. Is there a color stripe on it? If it is a white or gray wire with no color stripe it can be attached to the neutral or white wire of the power cord.

 

The connector can now be connected. From the left is a red wire that was cut and twisted back together - repair it and put it back on the capacitor terminal it was on originally. Cap off the orange wire as no connection. The wire to the right of the orange-if it is just a solid white wire hook it to the neutral wire of power cord. Green is ground hook it to the ground and green wire of power cord. Wire nut the yellow,blue, white with black stripe, red wire from capacitor, and hot side of power cord together. Cap off the white with violet stripe wire as no connection.

 

Plug it in and try it. Make sure your power source is protected with a circuit breaker or fuse!

 

If the motor does not start you may need to add the orange wire to the hot side of the power cord connection as well. The intent is to start the motor with the starting capacitor. As the motor pics up speed the centrifugal switch switches off the capacitor and goes to a speed selected winding.

 

let me know how it goes

[mormanman]

Thanks for the instructions but when I turned it on it threw a breaker. Don't worry about this anymore guys unless I bring it up again I got a new weed eater motor that should work.

 

Thanks for all your help guys.

[FrankRizzo]

mormanman,

 

Before you toss out that motor, take a look that this link I posted to the fixitnow.com forum. RegUS_PatOff tells us how to wire it correctly.

 

http://applianceguru.com/forum2/15785.html

[mormanman]

Oh I'm not going to throw it out just set it aside but I will look at it.

Thanks again.

[Mumbles]

You might want to make sure first of all that the weed eater motor is rated for continuous duty, which I really doubt that it is. You will also have to make sure you have a DC source for it. Sometimes the charger converts the AC to DC, but it may suck off too much juice to run continuously from the charging source, unless of course it is a wired motor.

[mormanman]

You might want to make sure first of all that the weed eater motor is rated for continuous duty, which I really doubt that it is. You will also have to make sure you have a DC source for it. Sometimes the charger converts the AC to DC, but it may suck off too much juice to run continuously from the charging source, unless of course it is a wired motor.

I only understood the wired motor part and yes you plug it straight into the wall. If that answers you question.

 

FrankRizzo, that advise worked like a charm except the fact that the capacitor blew out. I have picture, it was cool but it was scary at the same time and the motor still works.

Here are the pictures

http://i27.tinypic.com/b3mskn.jpg

http://i29.tinypic.com/zkmp7a.jpg

http://i29.tinypic.com/m985sn.jpg

[FrankRizzo]

LOL..must've had an internal short. If you've got a surplus electronics store nearby, pick-up a replacement with the same value (mfd) with a voltage rating of at least 110V (bigger doesn't matter).

[jacob]

On mine the black wire out of the wall goes to a blue wire on the motor, and the white wire from the wall goes to a purple wire on the motor, this makes it run on low speed (I think).

[mormanman]

On mine the black wire out of the wall goes to a blue wire on the motor, and the white wire from the wall goes to a purple wire on the motor, this makes it run on low speed (I think).

Low speed for mine is the yellow wire and will upload it as soon as I can.

View My Video

[InRainbows]

Hey, I'm going to work on a ball mill. With the motor, around 1725 rpm 1/3 hp be optimal? I've been looking around eBay, and there's this one for less than 20$ with S+H, but it has 3450 rpm, would that work for a mill jar the size of a mayo jar? The time rating is, in fact how long a motor can run?

 

Ebay motor:http://cgi.ebay.com/Reliance-Electric-Motor-1-3-HP_W0QQitemZ220214969689QQihZ012QQcategoryZ71400QQssPageNameZWDVWQQrdZ1QQcmdZVie

wItem

[marks265]

I would not use the motor myself. You all ready have to reduce the speed of a 1725 rpm motor with pulleys. If you buy that you are going the wrong way and then you would have to figure out what pulleys to use. Also I thought a 3450 rpm motor would use more power making it more expensive to run. Could you get it to work, sure. A 1/3 horse 1725rpm is usually a little big. If the price is right I would use it. I use a 1/4 horse for the Pyromachine. The NASCAR roller from Kyle on Passfire calls out a 1/6th horse motor.

 

Happy Easter

Mark

[lebanj12]

This is my new ball mill.

 

I have 1.3l jars ( http://www.inoxia.co.uk/rw/product/72.aspx ) They are great!

 

And this is my home-made aluminium powder made with this b.m.

http://shrani.si/t/2u/BR/2Q0DZMqG/img0722.jpg

edit: sry for bad picture

[PyroMedia]

What kind of media do you guys preffer? (round, rods, ect)