Beraq Shells

[psyco_1322]

It's a lot of work for just one shell and especially for fundamental experimenting.

 

Please do look for those links, post any that you have with beraq manufacturing parts in them. Every bit helps.

[dan999ification]

Rolling cases for earrings, nothing special.

 

Spiking a shell and a boy from 5 mins.

 

Bare with me.

Dan.

[dan999ification]

Is there a time limit before my post is closed before I'm finished writing it, I was copying and pasting after an essay but it disappeared,

 

Anyway, to my knowledge the bera are pierced with a hollow tool cut at an angle and sharp on the business edge inside and out. Not too unlike a hypodermic needle.

The tool does not remove a disc it cuts a flap that stays in the case which is useful for locking the delay slurry in place and giving extra protection from the break, you don't get this with a drilled hole, the thin cases benefit from this method.

 

I'll find the vids, trouble is it was years ago.

 

Dan.

[dan999ification]

Rolling cases from the start.

A similar but better one is there somewhere that also shows how the bera are placed in three petals in the shell.

 

Dan.

[psyco_1322]

Interesting, I have not seen that last video. It's just crazy they set there and roll all of those cases, one by one.

[dan999ification]

Some real gems here.

 

Dan.

[marks265]

That's a nice collection Dan! I had to hit the Like button on that post.

 

Mark

[dan999ification]

Thanks and no probs, I'm finding more that the construction vary's from factory to factory not just the materials used, very interesting and quite more ish.

 

Dan.

[psyco_1322]

Oh wow, there is a lot to be learned from those videos. I like how they kind of explain the reason behind some bera being spiked and some not. Great footage of the punching tool also. I think that is really something to have if you load and then punch the hole. If it went off in your hand, that would be very bad, going off a foot in front of you is not going to do much more than making you shit yourself.

 

It's even more interesting to see some of the materials they work with. Did I see disks made from hardboard? The cushion disks also being made from plywood and what looked like MDF.

 

There was also a part where they were all in the room making the chains of shells. There was the guy that was loading what must have been the lift charge? It looked like a fine dust, possibly not bp but some of fast burning powder they get away with in the smaller shells?

[marks265]

 

It's even more interesting to see some of the materials they work with. Did I see disks made from hardboard? The cushion disks also being made from plywood and what looked like MDF.

 

 

I shot a 8", 35 pound shell this weekend using a 3/4" MDF disc. It actually survived fairly well and I have used the material before on up to 50 pound shells. I have made looser fitting ones and they seem to crack on one edge so far. If you listen close he says to cut them as big as possible. Plywood would be stronger, but it shows that plywood is not needed either. I was hoping they would show their style of cushion but I did not notice any so far. Although my cushions seem to be working it would be nice to get a glimpse of one they make.

 

Mark

[psyco_1322]

I shot a 8", 35 pound shell this weekend using a 3/4" MDF disc. It actually survived fairly well and I have used the material before on up to 50 pound shells. I have made looser fitting ones and they seem to crack on one edge so far. If you listen close he says to cut them as big as possible. Plywood would be stronger, but it shows that plywood is not needed either. I was hoping they would show their style of cushion but I did not notice any so far. Although my cushions seem to be working it would be nice to get a glimpse of one they make.

 

Mark

 

They crack on the edge? Does you actually use the disks to contain the lift as the Maltese do, or is it solely for pushing on the cushion?

 

I'm shooting a 17lb 6" multi pretty soon, my first one this big. Not sure when you should use cushions, but I feel safer with one. I have rolled up a cotton t-shirt and kind of taped it together. It looks better than I make it sound. I will probably just put a few chipboard disks under it, as I am not relying on the disk to hold back pressure.

 

Did you get any video of your recent shell(s)? I know flying fish said he was recently at a shoot with some really nice big multis, not sure if it was the same you were at. I would still like to see some videos from the club shoots if anything interesting gets shot.

Edited May 21, 2013 by psyco_1322

[dan999ification]

He did say the discs were card, they sound very light and scratchy but look like wood. I've also seen cork being used.

They need to be tight to prevent blow by but i imagine that the shell would have to be as tight to prevent the disc breaking around the edges, two jobs? i think it's a cushin for the pushin mainly, without the disc you will have trouble using a cushion effectively.

 

The piercing tool in the vid is different to another I've seen, the bera were smaller though so may need different methods unless its just personal preference on tools.

 

I have seen some footage of large unfinished multi's that shows the maroon and two different cushions one paper one white cotton ( different shells) I think it was Kenneth tabone's work, I'll find it and keep adding here.

 

Dan.

[marks265]

I use paper when I make my cushions. From top to bottom you should have the shell, cushion, 3/4" wood disc, and the maroon is last. When using this system you save a lot of black powder for lift. I used 600 grams on the 35 pounder. If I had a longer gun I would use even less. The discs do break and is of no major consequence. The discs support and compact the cushion as well as seal. The cushion gets compacted when the lift is lit which acts as a cushion of course, but also helps to create a seal.

 

I am waiting on video as of yet. I normally don't post lesser shells. I was getting rid of stars from last year and is nothing too special IMO. If the video is any good I might post here but it won't be good enough for youTube. I was the only one to shoot a large multi-break at our club shoot this last weekend.

 

Mark

[Mumbles]

I clearly need to watch these videos with the sound on. I did pick up some tricks just from seeing some of the stuff though. That is one of the better videos I've seen from Maltese factories and on techniques.

 

I've seen and read about a lot of different cushion materials. I suspect it's of little consequence what is really used. My first inclination would be to use cotton or denim. It seems like it would seal up against the wall better being softer than paper.

 

Mark, do you ever notice any smouldering debris using paper?

 

Psyco, I've shot shells of that size without any sort of cushion. As long as they're built well, they'll survive the lift. This is probably about the size where the lift maroon starts to become beneficial though. Below a certain weight, it doesn't seem like they really save any lift charge. In my mind, I always figured you needed a shell of a certain weight to provide enough resistance to make a good seal for the lift maroon to give you the boost in efficiency.

[marks265]

Yes, I get the dreaded smoldering non-sense. I save all my paper from packages mailed from me and I have to get rid of it somehow. My shells are usually shot at the end of the night and this stuff doesn't travel far. This weekend I thought I stopped the one piece from burning about 4 times. What may help is to tape the ends of the paper cinnabuns shut to prevent some of the fire hazard.

 

I was also thinking about the purpose of the cushion a bit more. I also tend to now believe that no matter which material is chosen for a cushion it helps to hold the wooden disc together well enough until clear of the mortar.

 

When I also look at these types of videos I look close at the pasted shells. You can see through the paper (if you will) and notice the amount of spiking used to string shells together and I have even possibly noticed wide tape to tape a joint for two breaks. Maybe to help fireproof the shell joints? (if this truly is the case) Another thing I noticed is the hieroglyphics on the side of some of the shell cases suggesting the pattern shells, but yet never really saw a case being filled or already filled in the centers. I also liked the one never ending tall 10" case that was picked up and half full.

[psyco_1322]

I figure at an ounce per pound, up to 10lbs, and 1/2oz a pound after that, that 35lb shell would normally take 630g of lift. So you are saving 30g of lift? I don't really follow... I don't really follow that rule to a T, after Swisher said it was based off the hot, old Goex powder. I have been using fuse powder to lift shells, and I use 1.25oz/lb, then .75oz/lb after 10 lbs. This is also using a normal lifting style where no maroon is used, and no disk or cushion is used, on my smaller shells at least. This 6" is getting cushion, just for good measure, but no maroon or tight fitting disk is being used.

 

 

The center filling is what they seem to hold most secret. Something about the burst and the pistil they don't really want people to know about.

 

I usually make my shells where I spike the next break on, not spiking them individually. When I add on a break, I use about 4 pieces of tape to keep them together, and one turn around the joint for a bit of fire block. I don't know if that necessary or not, but I have always done it and it works fine for me. The next break stays in place till I can get it spiked onto the rest of the shell.

[marks265]

Good point Psyco,

 

I have used as little as 500 grams. But even then, me parting with/saving a 1/4 pound of powder doesn't mean a lot either. I think there is a wide margin for lift used. This is why I have been trying different amounts. Different length guns makes a difference too. Over all I am surprised at how close the oz/lb really is. I never really tried to compare the two before.

 

What did you plan on using for a cushion at that 6"? It seems to me that the cushion would not do to much unless it had support to keep the gases from permeating the cushion. This is depending on your design of course.

 

Mark

[max077]

i would love to try this

they are very nice

never seen somthing like that