Whistle Rocket

[Flaky234]

Hi,

 

I would like to learn the basics about whistle rockets?

 

At first I know whistle rockets must be pressed.

But how many pressure should be on a 15mm and a 24mm rocket?

The only press I can buy press with 24t it costs ~140€.

Is that a good buy or not?

 

So I want a rocket which takes off instantly and can lift very heavy payloads.

What tooling should I get a normal tooling, pusher tooling or a long winded screamer tooling?

And when the rammers of the toolings are made from aluminium doesn't they bend when pressed?

 

Thanks for your help )

[nater]

1. Yes, all whistle rockets must be pressed.

 

2. Whistle is better pressed at higher pressures. Most recommend 7500 - 9000 psi on the comp, although some press even higher! You will need to figure out the surface area of your rammer and then work out how much force to apply to the rammer to get the desired pressure on the comp. I usually make 1 lb (3/4" / 19mm) rockets. The tooling has a surface area of 0.442" inches, in order to press at 7500 psi on the comp, I need to apply 3300 lbs on my PtoF gauge while pressing. At least for those of us using imperial measurements, kind folks have published charts so you can avoid the math. Read here for more info: http://www.wichitabu.../ptof/ptof.html

 

3. I could not tell you if that is a good buy or not since I don't know what things normally cost on your side of the pond.

 

4. If you want a whistling rocket that lifts heavy payloads, consider using the "Super Whistle Fuel" that Dan Thames introduced. It is a benzoate whistle that is designed to use a long spindle, be easy to press and lift heavy payloads. While Dan and a couple others used a custom spindle for these, I know from personal experience, that this fuel works nicely pressed as the only fuel on a Hybrid / Universal type spindle with no nozzle. I know others who have used a standard BP spindle with good results as well.

 

5. What is "normal" tooling? Core burning BP, standard short tube whistle tooling? I also do not know what you mean by "pusher" tooling. As I have said in the past, I am a huge fan of the the Hybrid / Universal tooling. My sets are the Universal spindle from Firesmith, which is a little different design than the true H/U and works great. Ben Smith also has introduced his "nozzleless" sets which are specifically designed for benzoate whistles.

 

6. I have aluminum rammers and if you keep them square with your press, they don't bend at all.

Edited February 27, 2013 by nater

[Flaky234]

Hi, thanks for you answers.

 

Will this tool work?

[nater]

That looks to me like standard whistle tooling for short motors. Plenty of people make them using hot sali whistle fuel, but I am not one of them. There is no reason why it wouldn't work, with the right fuel. As for dialing in the fuel and the lifting ability, someone with experience with these types of motors will have to chime in.

[Mumbles]

This is the pusher tooling:

 

http://www.wichitabuggywhip.com/fireworks/rockets/erich/index.html

[Flaky234]

This isn't a standard whiste tooling i made it with rocket tool sketcher and I choose pusher tool and when i choose standart tooling it says the spindel is only 30mm long...

 

Help me I want to make a 15mm whistle rocket which can get about ~100g in the sky.

The id of the tube is 15mm lenght is 100mm.

 

And I want to make it with rocket tool sketcher because I need it for someone who makes it for me.

 

Thanks

[Mumbles]

The pusher tooling design will easily be able to lift that amount if made correctly. I've seen people put up 3" canisters and light 4" ball shells on tooling a little smaller than that.

 

Even the standard short core whistle tooling should easily be able to put up 100g at 15mm ID.

[psyco_1322]

I've attached a picture of a spindle that will fit your needs. I even converted it to mm for ya The pusher tooling is nothing more than a hotter spindle with a stupid empty space on the bottom. There is no need for that, it's just wasting tube.

 

When you have them make the rammers, you should really only need 2, a solid rammer and a cored rammer. It's best to have the cored rammer a hair larger than the base of the spindle, so it's not possible for it to ever jam on the spindle, even if you try pressing it with out any fuel in there. Also have them make the hole in the rammer a good 15mm longer than the spindle. That way the spindle will not be able to hit the top of the hole in the rammer, and there will excess room if fuel happens to collect up there. Cleaning your rammers between each motor is an important step to not having an accident. Make sure it's completely clean before starting another motor.

 

Another thing I should mention, is be sure to have them round over the top of the spindle. It shouldn't have sharp edges like the sketcher draws it. It also wouldn't hurt to have a smooth, concave, transition from the base of the spindle to the collar area where the tubes sits.

Edited February 27, 2013 by psyco_1322

[Flaky234]

Hey,

Thanks for the Spindel. : ))

 

At the bottom where the tube slides on is 7mm enought?

Every tool i know is to screw it on (is that even necessary?)

 

Thanks

[psyco_1322]

Not sure what you are meaning about screwing it on. Yes, the little "nipple" part that the tube slides over doesn't need to be very tall, shorter actually makes for easier fusing.