Shizznt Posted February 23, 2013 Posted February 23, 2013 The composition I used was kno3/charcoal/sulfur/dextrin 44/44/7/5. They aren't bright enough and it seems like they just turn to dust. trim.EeqRGR.MOV
marks265 Posted February 23, 2013 Posted February 23, 2013 I don't know your back ground @ 16 posts but have you tried making TT using the original formula to compare your method against? More info would help too such as how you made it and what charcoal you used. IIRC you upped the sulfur and decreased the binder ( which is not SGRS). Mark
DubaiAmateurRocketry Posted February 23, 2013 Posted February 23, 2013 Try this 70% KNO3 15% Charcoal 10% Sulfur 5% Dextrin, or aluminum
AlexPyro66 Posted February 23, 2013 Posted February 23, 2013 Try this 70% KNO3 15% Charcoal 10% Sulfur 5% Dextrin, or aluminumThat is black powder composition and you cant substitude dextrin with aluminium is wrong
dynomike1 Posted February 23, 2013 Posted February 23, 2013 What size stars and how long did you dry them?
808goboom Posted February 23, 2013 Posted February 23, 2013 Bro, I'd try different chrysanthemum ratios if tt ain't working. It's either your comp ratio or the way you make your stars. Tt stars have to be a minimum size to get the full effect of the tail and errthing. And make sure it dries completely because tiger tail stars take more time to dry.even if it seems dry the core might not be dry. Hope this helps. I ran into the same problem before.
psyco_1322 Posted February 23, 2013 Posted February 23, 2013 The 1% difference in chemicals is not going to make enough of any difference to even notice. Either your stars were still wet, or you have some bad chems. But hey, maybe I'll try out some of that new Aluminum binder they been talking about....sounds promising!
50AE Posted February 25, 2013 Posted February 25, 2013 High charcoal content compositions take a very long time to dry, some might want months depending on the size. To be sure, try breaking a star in half and scratch the inner side with your nail. If it's dry it should leave a white mark. If it's soft and crumbly, it's still wet.
Zumber Posted March 4, 2013 Posted March 4, 2013 use wet process for making stars(well explained by Bengalflair and pyrowinner in thread 'chrysenthemum of mystery')alcohol kills effect of binding if dextrin or SGRS used,so just use 10 percent only to reduce surface tension of water.Turning of star into firedust is in binding.Use 6 percent SGRS insted of 5 percent dextrin,for binding high charcoal content stars SGRS is superior than dextrin.
ryanlg95 Posted March 12, 2013 Posted March 12, 2013 What sort of charcoal are you using? My first batch of TT I used willow because I used willow for the BP and it looked very similar. Pine works well to give a "fluffyness" to the star. The best charcoal though in my experience is pine cone petals. And also as other members have said is make sure your stars are dry. They shouldn't crumble if you squeeze them, they should be quite hard to break with your fingers
TritonPyro Posted March 14, 2013 Posted March 14, 2013 It seems the high charcoal content takes a while to dry, more than usual it seems. When mine are completely dry they ' clink ' as they are tapped together. I find that after drying, putting a handful of dessicant 1 gram bags in with the finished product keeps them dry. Thanks to ziploc bags!
Recommended Posts