Star problem - Cut rubber green stars

[kilnj69]

Hi, Just made some green cut stars from the skylighter "Rainbow of Rubber Stars (high Magnalium & Carbonate system)". The formula consist of

 

30 KCLO4 (Potassium Perchlorate)

30 Mg/Al (Maglanium)

20 BaCO3 (Barium Carbonate)

15 Parlon

5 Redgum

 

I have made the red and blue stars 5mm x 5mm x 5mm a few times with 22% acetone (in both 50g and 100g batches) and they worked fine. But this time I tried a 150g batch of the green star mix and it seemed very wet when mixing (I weighed exactly 33.00g of acetone as called for ((and yes it is the same acetone as the previous batches of stars)).

 

After cutting, then while priming. The stars stuck together, After breaking up some of the primed mess I continued with the wide oval "pebbles" I had. But they started to crack (where they were cut, than merged back together) through the prime. So i decided to put a lid on the priming bucket to break them up, and now I have a few stars and lots of microstars.

 

In which I will have to find a use for, maybe for fountains or a cool green waterfall effect Hmmmmmmmmm . I was wondering if there is a slowing down of drying/evaporation of acetone with the barium carbonate in the mix, or if anyone has had experience or used this composition before. Any help would be great.

 

Justin

[Potassiumchlorate]

This is common. I love parlon stars when they work (unbeatable, since you can use very high ratios of pure magnesium), but this happens pretty often and is really a pain in the ass.

[dan999ification]

never happened to me, i use 35ml per 100g and keep stirring the wet comp until i can work with it, make the pattie, prime both sides and then wait again.

I never cut or try to break up these type of stars until the texture is just right, too wet = sticky mess, too dry= crumbly.

Seems wastefull to me to use 30% mg/al, im biased though and like veline stars for how versatile and economical they are.

 

Dan.

Edited February 1, 2013 by dan999ification

[AirCowPeacock]

I just made 100g of 1/8" cut red parlon stars for cake shots and insert shells. Some of the stars got messed up because the Acetone started to dry (I was not screen sliccing.) Next time I make so many small Acetone bound stars I'll make sure to only do 50g at a time, tops.

[Mumbles]

It's quite easy to slow down the evaporation to enhance the working time. Both Methyl Ethyl Ketone and Xylene have been used with good success in the past.

 

I never make Parlon stars. Frankly, I find them hideous. If they're anything like normal stars, the amount of wetting agent required varies day to day to some degree when cutting. It depends on temperature, humidity, phase of the moon, etc. That combined with the increased density of barium carbonate may have lead to over wetting. Most people typically wet the mixture to just under where it should be, and then slowly bring it up to optimal.

[AirCowPeacock]

I have to admit the High Magnalium Carbonate system doesn't give the cleanest color, atleast with -200+325 MgAl. But it's convieniant, and they're very bright.

[psyco_1322]

I like using lacquer thinner instead of acetone for parlon bound stars. It seems to dry a little slower and give a more workable patty. The vapor seems to be more tolerable to me than acetone's too. When wetting the comp, I will put it in a plastic bag, and work the comp with my hands as I add a little solvent at a time, until the consistency is where it needs to be. Then work out the patty onto a solvent resistant plastic surface, even if you just tape down the bag you took it out of. When cutting, pull the slices away from the patty, leaving space between the slices. Don't just dice the patty into cubes without separating the stars from one another. I don't usually prime mine when wet either, I let them dry, then prime them afterwards. I've made up to Kilo sized batches this way, with stars usually 5/8"- 3/4".

 

As far as your crumblies, you could re-wet them and making them back into stars.

[Potassiumchlorate]

There is of course the option to use PVC and just use NC lacquer as the binder.

[Arthur]

The rubber star mixes can be re-wet and re cut if necessary. Everything depends on the texture at the instant you roll and cut the patty. Rubber stars are a great instant fix -you can fire them the day you make them! BUT well made stars using conventional methods especially using water are usually better and always cheaper.

 

The traditional methods of manufacture have evolved for function at minimum price, it's hard to develop a better product for cheaper using a volatile solvent.

[kilnj69]

Thank for all the replies, I think i'll keep an eye on the texture after cutting then decide when to prime or let them dry them out alittle longer. When I made the red stars they dried as soon as I finished cutting and were really hard before the prime. Then the blue should of been cut alittle bigger but were sticky when priming but I got away with it.

 

Than the green were very sticky/wet and thought I could prime but boy was I wrong. Just some trial and error as I'm still learning , Will make some D1 glitter next and wait weeks for them to dry.

Thanks for the advice.

 

Justin

[Algenco]

if you dust the pattie before cutting prime will be pulled between stars minimizing sticking

[kilnj69]

Thanks Algenco, I started doing that after the first batch I made, there going to get primed anyway.

[eb11]

thats what i do prime both sides before i cut and the cut the patty seperating the stars as i cut and the i put some homemade bp between the stars before i put them into a tub to stir and pick up all the leftover prime have made alot this way and not problems

[AirCowPeacock]

I made these stars yesterday, with 5% Ti (I gots it now.) They are way denser than the red, but are otherwise fine. They light readily too. Color is 'okay,' but I've never been able to get a decent green out of the carbonate. These stars are great for small shells (2" and smaller,) but to pricy for anything much larger in my opinion.

[zAZO9a]

if youve made the brilliant red it uses strontium nitrate instead. you can use straight barium nitrate..it makes brilliant green and they are very very bright.. ive used the method for sometime but have yet to use the carbonates..as for over wetting justroll your pattie anways let it sit till some of the acetone evaps.then continue..and remeber to use lactose with the blues without it the color does suffer..

[laserkoi]

i use 30ml acetone + 5 ml alcohol per 100g of comp .the alcohol stops it sticking as mutch . .i mix to a patty then i leave it covered for 10 mins for the parlon to be fully activated ,them roll it out .prime both sides then cut to the required star size .

[zAZO9a]

you shoundnt have a problem with it sticking to your gloves if you do your over wetting it. which is fine . but letting it sit does wonders .its just like rolling any other dough.. over wetting with most stars can be a problem ..idont use all my star mix when wetting normally bound stars .that way if i over wet it i can dust it till its workable ..rubber stars are so forgivilng in tolerence it doesent really matter.. and i expect its why a lot of old timers ...like myself get turned off by them..it just doesent seem like you put enuff work into making them ..lol..but as profane an idea as it seems.. when its snowing like hell .knowing how ta make'em comes in handy....