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Posted
I was pretty impressed. They certainly beat the 50 mg crackers we normally get. Only thing I have to say is the fuse sucked [soccer]balls! 50% success rate. I will buy more next year and put some duct tape on 'em, also put my own fuse in. Sorry for hijacking the thread.
Posted

I don't think that anyone understood or read my post accurately.

This is a safe device and have used it for a long time.

It has no bp comp.

It is attached to the fuse with a plastic T so it is not attached during manufacture or while fusing. Only just before firing.

It lights the tip of the visco - no where else.

I always over fuse for safety.

If you want a short fuse - then do not consider it. The only burns from fireworks I have seen have been from too short or the wrong fuse, making a very short burn time. This device was made from a safety point of lighting the fuse accurately at the tip.

Posted

I don't think that anyone understood or read my post accurately.

This is a safe device and have used it for a long time.

It has no bp comp.

It is attached to the fuse with a plastic T so it is not attached during manufacture or while fusing. Only just before firing.

It lights the tip of the visco - no where else.

I always over fuse for safety.

If you want a short fuse - then do not consider it. The only burns from fireworks I have seen have been from too short or the wrong fuse, making a very short burn time. This device was made from a safety point of lighting the fuse accurately at the tip.

 

So when are you going to show/explain this igniter? We got 2 pages of people blabbing about other stuff because nothing is being shown.

Posted
I will hopefully be able to take a few pics sap. I am going in to hospital Wednesday for a few days.
Posted
We shall look forward to them! Best of luck at the hospital.
Posted

I have seen commercial cherrybomb firecrackers in ND just last year what looks like atleast 1-2 g of F. These will blow a 2 x 4 in 20 pieces no problems. They were titled soccerballs I beleive. Also, the plastic casing on these is 1/64", hardly any confinment. If you bust one open and light the flash in a pile, it self confines. Now, your thinking: these are obviously illegal ground salutes, so heres the catch. The back was labled "warning: emits crackling sparks. Set on ground, ect..." There we're two or three dragon eggs in there with bunches of flash. So, there primary effect was not the noise, it was the crackles. But of course, there is no way you could see or hear the crackling over the light and deftening noise of the flash!

 

On topic, I could see pull igniters as being safe if they are not applied to the fuse until you are right about to use them, not sitting on there for a half hour, not set up before a show. But, walk up to the fuse, slip one on, and pull.

 

I don't buy it. There is no way 1 or 2 grams of flash is going to blow a 2x4 into a bunch of pieces. Sounds like a kewl fantasy to me.

 

I would like to see a design for a reliable pull ring friction igniter. Please post details when you get a chance.

Posted
It could easily be more then 2 g. I'm not lieing. I threw a 2x4 ontop of one of these things, and lit it. Three big chunks and plenty of ~1/8" splinters.
Posted
This is one of only pull igniter I know hoe to make. You to take a red prosperous match box striker, and fold then tape it into a tub the can slip over your fuse. Then dip the tip of your fuse in a slurry of 50% KCLO3 30% antimony trisulfide 20% dextrin. Let the fuse dry for a few days. When you are ready to light just slip the tube striker over the fuse, pinch and pull. I don’t know if this is what you are thinking of.
Posted

ive never had problems lighting fuses in high wind or rain, a ciggarette always works, for multiple items you cant go wrong with a jet flame lighter or brulee torch, the benzomatic being the king.

 

Dan.

Posted
50% KCLO3 30% antimony trisulfide 20% dextrin. Let the fuse dry for a few days

In my experience theres no need for sulphur or sulphides, I had very good succes with H3.

 

A piece of Bickford, what is stiff and wont bend when scratching, covered with pinball prime and a layer of H3 on top works very nice. If you use a non water soluble binder this could work even when wet.

 

I prefer to keep the phosphor surface seperated and use a matchbox or such a thing

http://www.pyroladen.de/1000-zunder-reibflache.html

 

This is absolutely safe.

Posted

In my experience theres no need for sulphur or sulphides, I had very good succes with H3.

 

A piece of Bickford, what is stiff and wont bend when scratching, covered with pinball prime and a layer of H3 on top works very nice. If you use a non water soluble binder this could work even when wet.

 

I prefer to keep the phosphor surface seperated and use a matchbox or such a thing

http://www.pyroladen...reibflache.html

 

This is absolutely safe.

The match box striker rolled into a tube should be kept spate, then only slipped onto the fuse when you want to light it. The striker tube should be slightly larger than your friction prime so that it does not ignite when slipping it over the fuse. When you gently pinch it makes contact with the prime. When you then pull it off it ignites. I have never used your method, but it should work.

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