Whistle troubles

[nater]

Thanks for that, but I only have a few pounds of sali flakes. They still work well in hybrid fuels, but are a pain to screen the fines for more powerful whistles.

[engarna]

I use toluene as solvent. works for me.

[pyrosailor99]

Guys, i was really in doubt if open a new topic for this specific question about Whistles... but finally i decided to post it here:

 

To make good (loud) whistle serpents 10mm ID (for inserts and riseup):

Should i press it in a flat way (flat burning surface) or i need to press it on a spindle to form a little core burner?

 

In the case (this is) i have lack of titanium, could i use some Alu or MgAl instead (and in the case, in what proportion)?

[Mumbles]

I've always pressed them flat for inserts and applications where sound is more important than thrust. As far as adding metals, I don't believe aluminum or MgAl will work as well, if at all.

[dagabu]

I won't speak for others but with my whistle inserts, I use a flat burning surface that is scratched with brass awl and use two pieces of black match placed down the tube end touching the whistle then secured on the outside of the tube. I like to make a resonating chamber at least one ID deep in the end of the tube (hollow) for more sound.

 

-dag

[pyrosailor99]

What do you mean with:

 

[...] I use a flat burning surface that is scratched with brass awl [...].

?

 

and why you do this? to increase the ignition surface or for sound/performance reasons?

[dagabu]

When pressing whistle fuel, it can get very "glassy" looking and it can inhibit the ignition. The same thing happens with spolettes, the smooth surface does not heat up quickly enough and does not pass fire. You will find that whistle with a spindle hole will only chirp and will be propelled just like a rocket. The whistle sound comes from a solid column and a resonating chamber.

 

Try one of each on the ground (secured) and see what you think.

 

-dag

[Zingy]

I am quite fond of titanium whistle inserts, but would feel unsafe pressing them, without gloves, and a blast shield. My blast shield consist of three 1/4 inch recycled airplane passenger windows, spaced apart, and bolted together. Edited November 7, 2012 by Zingy

[Col]

Most aeroplane windows seem to be made from acrylic, it`d be worth checking what it is in case the worst happens. Polycarbonate or even better a steel plate and a mirror would be a safer option.

[Zingy]

Most aeroplane windows seem to be made from acrylic, it`d be worth checking what it is in case the worst happens. Polycarbonate or even better a steel plate and a mirror would be a safer option.

 

These windows seemed to have a significant amount of flex, as opposed to acrylic. Would you have any suggestions, of testing their functional use, such a using a small hole saw, to cut out a disk, from a corner, and seeing how the sample disk takes a blow from a hammer? I have used this shield for pressing more sensitive mixes like whistle and (NH4CLO4) strobe.

Edited November 8, 2012 by Zingy

[WonderBoy]

Have you ever cut acrylic before? It has a very distinct smell. You could maybe sand some of it, or briefly hold a lighter to an edge and see if it smells like acrylic.

 

 

WB

Edited November 8, 2012 by WonderBoy

[Col]

The other way is to take saw to it and see if it chips, cracks or splinters. Polycarbonate is a joy to cut compared to acrylic.

[Zingy]

I greatly appreciate the advice, from both of you. It is hard to believe the F.A.A., would allow acrylic windows.

 

I came up with an analogy, after some thought. The windows are similar to those used to shield the wind on street motorcycles, only thicker, or even a plastic beverage bottle, as opposed to a automotive head light cover, which shatter, with minimal impact. Plastics are not my expertise. Now it is really hard to believe, the F.A.A. has such minimal oversight, to aviation manufacturing standards. .

Edited November 8, 2012 by Zingy