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my new bp test


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Posted

hi,

 

 

I received willow charcoal.

I left the ball mill turning 12 h

I did a test of black powder.

not granulated.

just out of the mill

 

http://youtu.be/FgJG_nDFrvM

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Posted

Seems very good.

 

One small suggestion: never test stuff indoors. ;)

Posted

Seems very good.

 

One small suggestion: never test stuff indoors. ;)

 

+1

BJV

Posted
Very good :)
Posted

It looks good, although if you are going to test at a window sill open the window, place it outside, fuse it, light the fuse, close the window, and let the reaction happen.

 

Proper lab procedure is to test it inside a fume hood... I now do it inside a very small kitchen with no flammables nearby. The kitchen isn't used at all (I moved all the kitchen stuff outside, because that room is way too small, we're talking 10' x 4') so the hood is available. The hood is turned on and the reaction was then conducted.

 

I had a pretty scary accident from testing stuff in the shop. It goes without a saying that no comps should be present in the same room (if outside even 15 feet away is dangerous) in an open container.

Posted
Nothing like the smell of bp in the morning...
Posted

It is not in thé kitchen.

This is far from flammable products

Posted

Hi everyone i am just getting into making fireworks been shooting them and Dynomite for years. i have been looking at making Black powder @ Skylighter and i have had people tell me it was kinda weak. I was wondering how willow charcoal does when confined. i did noticed it had a good flash

hi,

 

 

I received willow charcoal.

I left the ball mill turning 12 h

I did a test of black powder.

not granulated.

just out of the mill

 

http://youtu.be/FgJG_nDFrvM

Posted

Hey hey superspike now things are rocking and rolling! Keep it outside though like they said.... Not just out of the kitchen. What's wrong with five steps out onto the grass? What's next now that you got some real BP production going?

 

Dynomike1: check out the newbie section and ask your questions there. This is the superspike show!

Posted

Hey hey superspike now things are rocking and rolling! Keep it outside though like they said.... Not just out of the kitchen. What's wrong with five steps out onto the grass? What's next now that you got some real BP production going?

 

Dynomike1: check out the newbie section and ask your questions there. This is the superspike show!

 

 

 

black powder seems ok now.

 

But my stars do not always ignite.

 

One problem after another, that is how I learned.

 

what do you mean by: "What's wrong with five steps out onto the grass?"

 

What 5 steps?

 

YES :) This is the superspike show :P

 

here in video

 

The first 4 shells use my new bp

I use it less and highest flight

 

 

 

http://youtu.be/-2LBj-XGtwQ

Posted
you should coat your stars with black powder 75/15/10 approximately 2mm thick for 10mm stars
Posted

Val, it depends completely on the star and the use. even 2mm of 75/15/10 will not light most colours if they are subject to a moderate burst, or even sometimes lit on the ground.

 

On the other hand, 2mm of 75/15/10 on a charcoal streamer star is excessive.

 

For most colours (like all of those using KP and/or Barium or Strontium nitrate and MgAl) you want a much hotter prime, and you want to prime this hot prime with BP or similar.

 

 

 

For a typical colour star you will want to roll 0.5mm to 1mm of something like...

 

KClO4 70

Charcoal 10

Red Gum 10

MgAl 5

Dextrin 5

 

and roll 0.5mm to 1mm of 75/15/10 over that (or quite commonly, extra charcoal is added, so more like 70/20/10 might be superior... remember the fact that initially the star is traveling at great speed through a gas with significant oxygen content... you can add extra fuel to compensate.)

 

 

For glitters, Charcoal stars, Brocades and other Potassium nitrate based stars with a Charcoal content, just use the Potassium nitrate, Charcoal, Sulfur and dextrin layer.

 

 

Superspike, what formula are the stars you are having ignition problems with? What prime did you give them?

Posted (edited)

 

 

 

For a typical colour star you will want to roll 0.5mm to 1mm of something like...

 

KClO4 70

Charcoal 10

Red Gum 10

MgAl 5

Dextrin 5

 

and roll 0.5mm to 1mm of 75/15/10 over that (or quite commonly, extra charcoal is added, so more like 70/20/10 might be superior... remember the fact that initially the star is traveling at great speed through a gas with significant oxygen content... you can add extra fuel to compensate.)

 

 

For glitters, Charcoal stars, Brocades and other Potassium nitrate based stars with a Charcoal content, just use the Potassium nitrate, Charcoal, Sulfur and dextrin layer.

 

 

Superspike, what formula are the stars you are having ignition problems with? What prime did you give them?

 

 

 

they are stars chlorate.

 

The most strange is that they are all very well ignite a StarMine.

 

green:

 

potassium chlorate 38.7

barium nitrate 38.7

charcoal 13.2

redgum 6

dextrin 3.5

 

 

purple:

 

61.3g KClO3

redgum 9.1g

copper carbonate 5g

lithium carbonate 10

Parlon 12.5g

dextrin 5g

 

red:

 

potassium chlorate 70

lithium carbonate 15

10 red gum

charcoal 1

dextrin 4

Edited by superspike23
  • 1 month later...
Posted

new production of black powder.

 

20 hours ballmilled

 

Willow charcoal

 

just out of the mill.

 

1 gram test ignition

 

http://youtu.be/xu7nkqTDe8E

Posted
Yup, that's what we all like to see. Good job!
Posted

Yup, that's what we all like to see. Good job!

Thx :)

 

I now granulate, adding 5% dextrin, and the wetting with water 75/25 alcohol

Posted
Better yet, mix 20% by weight, dextrin in water and add your 25% alcohol at the end. Use this in a sprayer to whet your BP, you will be really surprised with the results!
Posted

Looking good!

 

Making BP is the heart and soul of this hobby, and it's fun to actually measure it's performance. Have you considered a mechanism or timing device to test it?

 

Probably the easiest is lofting baseballs or softballs, and measuring the altitude or the time of flight of the ball. Another method is by measuring the speed of a burn, but that can be harder to do. I set up a rig that uses an aluminum channel to contain the BP, which burns through two cotton threads to start and stop the timer. An easier method is to use video software that allows for editing so you can see the time of the burn.

 

Any way you do it, it's simply a lot of fun, and you can compete with buddies to see who has the fastest BP. Just no cheating with non KNO3 oxidizers!

Posted

Yes it is a very good idea.

I'll try to measure the burning time with video software.

I use 1 g each test

Posted
You need get rid of that glass jar you're trying to test the tiger tail composition in. It's incredibly unwise to use any sort of glass container for anything in pyro. This goes 10x fold for anything is intended to be on fire. You should also be testing these things outside. Outside is more than opening a window. The smoke and sparks are VERY clearly blowing back into your workspace. This isn't the first time people have mentioned this. Ignoring advice that makes your devices work better only hurts your pride. Ignoring sound safety advice could end your life.
Posted
yea i like your comps you are doing well, but or safety is not good.What ever you do in this hobby effects us all.if you en up burning down your house killing yourself that gets meshed on us. If you end up discovering new comps and new ways of doing things that helps us, but if you do not live to do those things then there is no good in it. So to recap keep doing new thing and discovering things, but do not get hurt please be safer.
Posted

you're right.

I'll be more careful now

Posted

I'm bad, I will find another passion.

I can not do anything good.

None of my tests work: (


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