Pattern shell help

[ryanlg95]

I'm sure this has been discussed before, but I can't find an answer to it.

My one year anniversary is coming up with my girlfriend in 6 months and for it I'm planning on doing a surprise show of 6 2" shells and a love heart 4" shell. I'm planning igniting it wirelessly by a heart shaped remote that I will give her for a present and it will have a key and it will have a heart shaped handle on a nice chain so she can have it as a necklace.

The main help I want is how to orient the heart shell's break. I have thought about it a lot and I'm debating whether to have the stars arranged in a heart along the hemisphere of the shell so that if when the shell is going up any y-axis rotation wont be a problem, just the heart might be upside-down, but I don't see that as much of an issue. But if I put the stars at a right angle to the hemisphere (As in upright when loaded into the mortar) I reckon that if the y-axis rotation is correct it will look better because it will be upright, but there's also a high chance of it breaking at the wrong orientation. Also if I use the first method but with a drag rope so that the shell SHOULDN'T rotate on the z-axis or x-axis, how long should the drag rope be and what diameter? I think I read that about 3 foot long and about 1/2 diameter, but I want to be sure, and how is the best way to attach it? I thought of splitting the end of the rope and distributing the stands around the base of the shell, but then in that case I'd have to top fuse the shell which I don't have experience with, but I don't see I would have a problem with. Or could the drag rope be attached to the top of the shell?

Thanks in advance, Ryan

[AirCowPeacock]

I don't have any real experience with pattern shells, but if you were to use a rocket, couldnt you practically ensure that it bursts at the right orientation?

[ryanlg95]

I don't have any real experience with pattern shells, but if you were to use a rocket, couldnt you practically ensure that it bursts at the right orientation?

 

 

There's no guarantees because the rocket can rotate on the y-axis (vertical) which MIGHT cause the shell to burst facing 90 degrees away from the viewing point which would look like a single line

[NightHawkInLight]

There's no guarantees because the rocket can rotate on the y-axis (vertical) which MIGHT cause the shell to burst facing 90 degrees away from the viewing point which would look like a single line

Not if the shape is made along the equator of the shell, and the rocket is fired at a slight angle away from you, the viewer. That method works quite well. Even if the rockets were not fired at an angle you would never get a straight line because the shells burst so high overhead, causing any ground view to be at an angle great enough to see the shape.

[ryanlg95]

Not if the shape is made along the equator of the shell, and the rocket is fired at a slight angle away from you, the viewer. That method works quite well. Even if the rockets were not fired at an angle you would never get a straight line because the shells burst so high overhead, causing any ground view to be at an angle great enough to see the shape.

 

Oh yeah, forgot about that. Contradicting myself a bit . I'd prefer not to do a rocket, I don't think it would really fit into the show I'm planning and would require tooling, more chemicals, etc. I will do it if I have to but I'd prefer to stick to shells.

-Ryan

[NightHawkInLight]

In that case, I would worry less about trying to make sure the shells are modified so that they orient correctly, and instead put the time into making a larger quantity of them so that there are bound to be a good number that face the correct way just by chance. Even if they don't all break just right they're still an extra shell in the show, which is worth plenty. Edited August 13, 2012 by NightHawkInLight

[ryanlg95]

In that case, I would worry less about trying to make sure the shells are modified so that they orient correctly, and instead put the time into making a larger quantity of them so that there are bound to be a good number that face the correct way just by chance. Even if they don't all break just right they're still an extra shell in the show, which is worth plenty.

 

Thanks NightHawk, I have thought of that, and will probably resort to that, but I am still curious how much would go into actually orienting it correctly. And I only have the one 4" mortar currently, but I probably could get another.

-Ryan

[ryanlg95]

Whoops, accidently posted it twice Edited August 13, 2012 by ryanlg95

[taiwanluthiers]

Might try set pieces... much easier to do.

[Hoppy]

Ryan,

 

I saw a very large display last night with tons of 'commercial' hearts - a few 4's and a few 6's. IMO, they were all mostly sloppy...it would be a shame if your hard work on a single heart shell ended up not looking like a heart or at the wrong angle from your view where you will be at. I'm not sure how long you plan to work on the 'heart shaped remote' with key/handle but that time could be well spent looking into making perhaps a different effect that could give a much better "WOW" factor. Plus think of how often you will use that heart-shaped remote again?

 

The 1 year anniversary is very special for most couples and I would strongly suggest other ideas as I've been there, done that but I do not want to knock down your idea. At the end of the day, you know her best and you know if a heart is a perfect way to represent your time together and your feelings for her.

 

Might try set pieces... much easier to do.

 

 

^ This is a very easy and inexpensive option. I was going to recommended but taiwan beat me to it. You could do lance-work (very nice quality - good stuff at the PGI if you are here this week) or buy a bunch of morning glories. "I love you" or a " <3 " of some sorts stickied or QM'd really does impress. There are project plans that are easy to find now searching here and other sites on the web if you are interested.

[ryanlg95]

Thanks for the ideas Hoppy and Taiwan. Lances are also an option. I'm still brain storming the ideas. The remote I want to make will only take me a weekend to do after I buy what I need (Box, key, switches, RF Relay board). I'm still keen on the idea of the shell as I've seen a good video of one on youtube

although it is a 6 inch ratther than a 4 inch.

it would be a shame if your hard work on a single heart shell ended up not looking like a heart or at the wrong angle from your view where you will be at

This is why I was curious as to techniques that could be used to orient the shell correctly, if there is a near definite way of doing that.

-Ryan

[Seymour]

I've used drag ropes a bit to orient shells. I attach the cord like you describe Ryan, with it 'frayed' and secured by adding the 'fraylets' as I paste the shell, rather similar to how I paste on cord loops for lowering larger shells in to mortars.

 

Yes, commonly the drag cord is on top of the shell (which quickly becomes the bottom once ascending). For it to function you must pop the shell before apogee, while the shell has enough velocity for the drag rope to work.

 

The orientation aid given by aerodynamic stabilization is, as you say, unable to remove the pole of rotation and thus you have the choice you outlined.

 

Ideally, you would have the heart arranged such that if you fired the shell straight up, it will burst horizontally. Except don't fire it straight up, and instead fire it away from you at an angle. I see this as the best chance you have with one shell.

 

Second best for a single shell, but in my opinion the best option overall if you fire half a dozen shells, is the other method, where the pointy base of the heart is by the drag rope, so that the heart'll be upright, but will be oriented otherwise randomly.

 

My drag cords have always been much thinner than half inch, but I compensate with a pasted paper flag at the end. I use Hemp.

[ryanlg95]

I've used drag ropes a bit to orient shells. I attach the cord like you describe Ryan, with it 'frayed' and secured by adding the 'fraylets' as I paste the shell, rather similar to how I paste on cord loops for lowering larger shells in to mortars.

 

Yes, commonly the drag cord is on top of the shell (which quickly becomes the bottom once ascending). For it to function you must pop the shell before apogee, while the shell has enough velocity for the drag rope to work.

 

The orientation aid given by aerodynamic stabilization is, as you say, unable to remove the pole of rotation and thus you have the choice you outlined.

 

Ideally, you would have the heart arranged such that if you fired the shell straight up, it will burst horizontally. Except don't fire it straight up, and instead fire it away from you at an angle. I see this as the best chance you have with one shell.

 

Second best for a single shell, but in my opinion the best option overall if you fire half a dozen shells, is the other method, where the pointy base of the heart is by the drag rope, so that the heart'll be upright, but will be oriented otherwise randomly.

 

My drag cords have always been much thinner than half inch, but I compensate with a pasted paper flag at the end. I use Hemp.

Thanks Seymour.

I'll have to do some tests before hand to see how it goes. Although there are easier options, I'm still keen on the idea of the single heart shell at the end of the 6 2"ers.

-Ryan

 

 

[taiwanluthiers]

What about fin stabilized canister shell, is it possible?

[AirCowPeacock]

Acording to Shimizu's FAST, cotton burns readily and is not easily put out, where as hemp is hard to light and is easily extinguished. So if you do use a drag rope you probably want to use hemp.

[burningRNX]

What about fin stabilized canister shell, is it possible?

Its much easyer to attach a drag rope to your cannister shell.

This 4" has a drag rope:This topic

[ryanlg95]

But would a heart be possible from a canister shell? I imagine it would be but I reckon it would be simpler to create the heart effect in a ball shell.

-Ryan

[NightHawkInLight]

A heart is possible in a canister shell. In fact there would be much less wasted room on the inside, because a heart shape is 2 dimensional just like the ring shaped break of a perfectly made can shell, whereas in a ball shell the break is shaped like a sphere. It is however harder to accomplish, because making a can shell break right takes far more precision and skill than pasting together two factory made cardboard hemispheres.

[Mumbles]

If someone can do it, the maltese can. As for the details on how to do it, no idea. It's almost certainly be easier to get something resembling a heart with a ball shell. Many of the more detailed canister shells are made in sizes that are likely beyond your scope. If you want to do the leg work and figure out how they do it, I'm sure we'd all be as equally grateful as your girlfriend.

 

In reality, you're going to have to make several practice shells. There are helpful hints on the internet and amongst the members here, but the only way to have this go off as planned is to make some yourself. I wouldn't plan on things working perfectly the very first time. At least keep the set-piece idea around as a backup plan. I bet if you had a heart lance piece or something burning and a couple of heart shaped shells fire off a few seconds later, her mind may be more inclined to see the desired shape in them.

[ryanlg95]

Thanks for all the great ideas everyone. I reckon I'll make some test 4" ball heart shells and see how I go and if I can't get it right I might just ditch the pattern idea and have shells and a set piece.

-Ryan

[Arthur]

Without the time to do tests I'd try to do some lancework or a fire rope heart shape.

 

Fire rope - just disposable 10mm natural rope fastened to a big piece of chicken wire in a heart shape, soak in methylated spirit, petrol, kerosene, or diesel and light it, you point it the right way then secure it to stakes.

 

Light the fire rope, then fire the shells while the rope gets going.

[gilv58]

One more idea how about a heart shaped comet ring? I know it's a ground effect but that may be a great visual