dangerousamateur Posted August 6, 2012 Posted August 6, 2012 Hi, perhaps you can give me some advice again. I like glitters very much, I can allready make D1 that work very well, only the tails are allways so short.I want a tail that lasts/glitters really long. I dont care if it's white or golden.
deadman Posted August 6, 2012 Posted August 6, 2012 (edited) You can get D1 to last longer by using courser charcoal and aluminum. I'm not sure if oxalates make a diff on the glitters compared to NaHCO3 but that may. Check out Winokur's 40 Glitter Comps for a lot of comps. N1 is pretty nice too. Xtreme Pyro has an awesome video of a shell he built with it. http://www.amateurpyro.com/forums/topic/7009-4-n1-glitter/ Edited August 6, 2012 by deadman
xBangergoosEx Posted August 6, 2012 Posted August 6, 2012 Poor Man's Willow Diadem: KNO3....35%Charcoal....35%Sulfur....12%FeTi (or Aluminum Powder if you dont have FeTi)....10%Dextrin....8%
Zumber Posted August 7, 2012 Posted August 7, 2012 Poor Man's Willow Diadem: KNO3....35%Charcoal....35%Sulfur....12%FeTi (or Aluminum Powder if you dont have FeTi)....10%Dextrin....8%what mesh aluminium?And what type? I hope its atomized.
dangerousamateur Posted August 7, 2012 Author Posted August 7, 2012 (edited) Willow diadem is not a glitter. It's very nice, but I want some delay. I'm reading through all the Winokurs... Win 39-J, up to a 300' tail...Tahnks, I'll try this one. I've got all the ingredients here. Use 2% barium carbonate for first prime layerWhat's the purpose of that? And most formulas there sayAluminium, (atom, spher, 120-325 mesh, 20 micron)That's at least 45µm. 120 would be more than 100µm. Not 20. So, what is right? Edited August 7, 2012 by dangerousamateur
dangerousamateur Posted August 10, 2012 Author Posted August 10, 2012 *bumb* Any Idea if I can get away with my 45µm/325mesh atomized aluminium or should I get coarser stuff first?What do you use for your glitters?
californiapyro Posted August 10, 2012 Posted August 10, 2012 i use 100-325 mesh. you can certainly use the 325, it just won't be as long of a tail
Bcorso85 Posted August 12, 2012 Posted August 12, 2012 add sodium bicarbonate, that and the barium act as retardants...or a delay. it has to burn through, so the composition can then start to burn. N1 glitter has a late delay built into it, which is nice. You will notice the formula has a bicarbonate % of 9 (I think). the stars and comets should be made smaller in order to keep it in the air, and not on the ground. If you like D1 then try tremalon or winokur 19(ish). This numerical area of winokur..the golds...are VERY similiar if not better than D1. As far as your aluminum , you want to use a glitter aluminum -325 or larger. Speroidal/ Spherical. The lower the number the bigger the pieces. The bigger the pieces the longer they take to start to burn...which is what you're looking for.
dangerousamateur Posted August 13, 2012 Author Posted August 13, 2012 Does any of those Winokurs need more priming than a very thin layer of blackpowder?
Bcorso85 Posted August 19, 2012 Posted August 19, 2012 (edited) No. Scratch mix is usually fine. I will take a green mix with some magniluim or silicon in it to make sure. Sometimes I dont prime them becuase it is a b.p. based composition as long as you have a high temp break charge. Unprimed, but also wasnt mixed very well. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=EUL7YA4OMOw Edited August 19, 2012 by Bcorso85
dangerousamateur Posted August 25, 2012 Author Posted August 25, 2012 Scratch mix worked fine, at least in my little stargun, thanks. That shell in your video is very nice, but I prefer more delay, longer tails. When the stars are burned out I would still like to see the place where the shell exploded.
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