dangerousamateur Posted August 3, 2012 Posted August 3, 2012 (edited) Finally I've got some barium chlorate here. Unfortunately no shellac yet. Now I tried several formulas, all redgum fueled, they all look nice and pure.But I miss the brute light output of nitrate and magnalium. Is there some way to combine both? Is barium chlorate and MgAl or even pure Mg reasonable to handle for us? The only formula I found is Hardts green number 6: Hardt Green Star #6Barium chlorate 45Potassium perchlorate 18Red gum 6Charcoal airfloat 3Magnalium -200 mesh 11Parlon 12Dextrin 5 Not very much metal in there, I would rather subtitute the redgum & charcoal for more and swap the perchlorate for chlorate... Edited August 3, 2012 by dangerousamateur
psyco_1322 Posted August 3, 2012 Posted August 3, 2012 Why can't you just use Barium Nitrate, you talk like you have had it before?
dangerousamateur Posted August 3, 2012 Author Posted August 3, 2012 Sure I can. And I'm very pleased with it. But maybe there is something better...?
Potassiumchlorate Posted August 3, 2012 Posted August 3, 2012 I experimented a lot with barium chlorate and metal fuels before. I'd say that if you want a deep and not too bright green, barium chlorate without metals is superior. Above 12% metal the barium chlorate green starts to get washed out. If you prefer brightness to depth, Bleser Green Mg is better for you: Barium nitrate 55Magnesium 100-200 mesh 18Parlon 12PVC 15 Dissolve in acetone.
FlaMtnBkr Posted August 4, 2012 Posted August 4, 2012 In that Bleser Green, have you made it without dichromate? I know there isn't AP but I know many people recommend all mg be treated. If you replace the perchlorate with KClO3 then they will be a lot more sensitive. I imagine they will easily light if you strike on a match box. For Barium chlorate stars that is a way to gauge sensitivity as adding perchlorate reduces sensitivity. Barium chlorate has been the source of quite a few accidents so you really need to handle with care. Just the setback from the mortar launch can cause a shell to detonate if heavy enough. If you combine the Ba chlorate with perchlorate it is done to reduce sensitivity while making it cheaper, and you end up with a star almost as good.
Potassiumchlorate Posted August 4, 2012 Posted August 4, 2012 I have never treated Mg with dichromate. I bind with parlon. It doesn't stop corrosion to 100%, and sometimes even small amounts of water are trapped inside the stars, making them smell of ammonia, but it seems that the reaction is so slow that it doesn't pose any danger of self-ignition. Like I said, I have experimented quite a bit with barium chlorate+metal, but for me it doesn't feel like it's worth the trouble. Barium nitrate+metal is better for bright green, while barium chlorate+resin is better for a deep green. But feel free to try my barium chlorate+magnesium composition: Barium chlorate 66-68Mg <63µm 12Parlon 12Red gum 8-10 The red gum is absolutely necessary. Otherwise the colour will be washed out. This one will ignite if you just look angrily at it, so be careful.
dangerousamateur Posted August 4, 2012 Author Posted August 4, 2012 I imagine they will easily light if you strike on a match boxHehe, I already made such experiments, such green matches are sooo cool On the other hand I want stars I can put in a shell and, well, the shell should not go off if i drop the stuff or strike something by accident. This one will ignite if you just look angrily at it, so be careful. I hope this get's cured with some H3 or perchlorate prime applied? Say, this deep vs. bright thing - doesn't that only come frome the simple fact you are blinded?I did lots of star testing on the ground, but mostly they all look very alike... (because I economized on visco fuse and was not very far away)
Potassiumchlorate Posted August 4, 2012 Posted August 4, 2012 Yes, it might be good to prime it anyway. Already in the 1870's Browne was talking about bright vs. deep in his book on fireworks, and back then the only metal fuel they had to make things bright was 1-10% magnesium, which, I suppose, was pretty coarse compared to what we are used to. 10% was seen as extremely luxurious.
Mumbles Posted August 4, 2012 Posted August 4, 2012 Even adding potassium chlorate to barium chlorate stars makes them less sensitive, as well as making it burn quicker. For being as sensitive as barium chlorate can be, it can burn relatively slow at times. As PotassiumChlorate has mentioned, I wouldn't bother wasting barium chlorate on metallic stars. It's probably not going to look much if any better than a barium nitrate formulation, yet come with a greatly increased sensitivity risk
Potassiumchlorate Posted August 5, 2012 Posted August 5, 2012 Barium chlorate must be one of very few compounds in pyro being desensitized by potassium chlorate You'll actually not gain more by adding metal than making ignition easier (and the composition more dangerous than it already is). I watched my old video of the comp, and it is a bit brighter but not as much as a barium nitrate+metal composition. I even consider adding potassium chlorate to my organic barium chlorate composition myself to desensitize it and to make it cheaper. Barium chlorate is at least twice as expensive as its potassium relative, unless you can buy it in bulk.
dangerousamateur Posted August 5, 2012 Author Posted August 5, 2012 OK, I see that barium chlorate and metal will not bring any gain. Considering the organic versions, what are your favourites here, can you give me some advice?Is shellac worth the hassle of working with it, and the higher price (I can get that "orange" stuff for 30€/Kg - almost twice the price of RG) Any formula you find on Pyroguide works with Redgum, and most indeed do also use KClO3. Shellac is obviously not very popular...
Potassiumchlorate Posted August 5, 2012 Posted August 5, 2012 I find shellac very good, although even chlorates burn a bit slow with it, so the stars mustn't be too big.
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