OldMarine Posted October 21, 2016 Posted October 21, 2016 Adding 5% silicon to your BP prime helps quite a bit. Forms a glassy slag that transfers the heat to the comp better.
Seymour Posted November 3, 2016 Posted November 3, 2016 If you don't have Potassium perchlorate you can still step prime them with mixes of the green composition and the black powder prime. Perhaps first prime with 75% green and 25% BP, then 50/50, then 25% green and 75% BP, then a final layer of BP prime. The only stars that I'll ever prime with only BP are ones like Charcoal streamers and glitters that are likely to light anyway. In these cases the BP prime is to absolutely guarantee ignition on all surfaces of all stars at the same time, instead of some stars only being lit on one side, and a percentage not lighting at all, especially in hard bursts. Under priming is one of the most common mistakes people make in the journey of making lovely firework stars, which is quite understandable. Black powder does burn pretty intensely and it will often ignite star mixes when they are on the ground and not flying through the air. In my opinion it is better to do it a little bit more than you feel is needed than risk having a shell with nothing after the burst, or the disappointing effect of only 10% of them lighting. 1
PyroChem221 Posted May 12, 2017 Posted May 12, 2017 As far as what truly is the best green composition to use is in fact, BaClO3 mixture. The following ratio will give the absolute best results possible. It used a three step priming method to ensure good ignition. Barium Chlorate..........50Parlon®.......................10Magnalium (-325)........20Red Gum.....................20 Bind with Xylene and screen slice. Prime using a healthy layer of this hot prime: Potassium Perchlorate............50Magnalium (-325)....................30Charcoal (Air Float).................20Rice Starch or Dextrin...........+10 Follow this with a easier to ignite BP based hot prime. The reason for the strange first prime is to prevent sulfur from coming in contact with the star composition as it contains chlorates and addition of sulfur will make it very dangerous. This is the black power prime base. Potassium Nitrate.....................74Sulfur........................................12Charcoal...................................14Dextrin or Rice Starch..............+5 Ball mill these ingredients together at least 2 hours. Overnight recommended. Then add in 20% by weight of fine magnalium after milling. Sieve everything together. Then add 1-2% boric acid to prevent unwanted reaction from the MgAl. Then dust with a final coating of standard BP. If anyone wants to try this like I did I am very curious to see your results. Cheers
ronmoper76 Posted July 22, 2021 Posted July 22, 2021 (edited) I found emerald green to be a very nice green. Also they are easier to light compared to nitrate-only stars.Maybe they are not properly dried, that might cause them to look washed out. Another green I would choose is Hards Green Star #5. A strong hotprime is recommended. As far as I understood, this is a to step system. The perchlorate prime is hotter, but needs to be primed itself to ignite under any circumstance. Thus a layer of the BP based prime is applied on top of it. And to be really sure you can dust them with a thin final layer of normal BP.I have used a perchlorate prime on chlorate stars as a solo prime and had very good luck with star ignition. Its not supposed to work right without another layer of prime but it does for me. However i also tried zero priming with chlorate stars and it worked well also,they will light from a cigarette ash in the wind. Perhaps being a chlorate star is why Edited July 22, 2021 by ronmoper76
sachinagg Posted April 22 Posted April 22 On 5/30/2015 at 9:02 PM, pyrodoc said: Parlon is available in ten kg bags also. Just do a search on India mart. Can u write supplier name its maybe Jagannath chemical or other
Recommended Posts