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Posted

Spanish kamuro

effect: kamuro

Origin: spanish text earlier on APC, slightly modified to my needs

 

KNO3 29

Sulfur 5

C (beech) 41

FeTi 250 mic. 15

Dextrin 6

 

Ballmill the ingredients except the FeTi for 30 minutes. Mix in the FeTi by diapering. I used pumped stars and they worked wonderfully. I haven't tried rolling them. Prime with BP.

 

Spanish green #2

effect: green star

Origin: directly from spanish text that appeared earlier on APC

 

KClO4 18

Ba(NO3)2 45

Red Gum 10

Parlon 9

MgAl 63 um 14

Dextrin 4

 

Sieve all ingredients separately and mix by diapering. Nice bright green star. They do tend to be self propelling to some degree. I used Hardt # 4 prime:

 

KNO3 35

C 25

KClO4 35

Dextrin 5

 

Fucsia #1

 

effect: color star

Origin: directly from spanish text that appeared earlier on APC

 

KClO4 48

CuO 7

Sr. carbonate 11

Red Gum 10

Parlon 12

MgAl 63 um 8

Dextrin 4

 

Very nice deep pink color. Easy composition to work with. Priming with ordinary BP is sufficient.

Posted
Oh, so those Spanish compositions were really that good. Have to try some of them, then. :)
Posted
yeah, i tested about half of them, all of them where exceptionally good. Only the blue compositions didn''t work for me. Too much of a white haze.
Posted

Thanks for sharing your experiences.

 

Which spanish text is it that you are referring to?

Posted (edited)

It is nice you too are experimenting with these formulas. I have tried out a lot of these formulas, and I absolutely love them.

 

The red no 1 , white strobe, turquoise, yellow, kamuro, violet and fucsia no 1 are very, very good. I did like the blue no 1, but that is personal, it is more of a bright light blue.

 

This document is a true treasure trove for me, I will continue to make these colours and use them in my shells....great stuff....

 

 

spitfire: I do not see why you should diaper the green formulae, just screen it with an 80 mesh screen, it is perfectly safe.

Edited by fredhappy
Posted
@ Mumbles, yes, that document. And i agree with fredhappy, this document is a true treasure for us. I happen to have a Spanish friend, he is going to translate the whole text for me. The formulae are easy to read, but there are also a lot of side notes which i don't understand. They might have very interesting practical info for us. I can understand some spanish, but not enough to translate this whole document correct.
Posted

Got another kamuro for you guys.... called ''super camuro'' got it from a Maltese friend. I have tried it myself, and noticed a fallout that might be a hazard in sub-urban area's . The effect is a more dense whiter kamuro. I suppose it is the Ti i used. Maybe any of you can try a testbatch in your spare time.

 

 

KNO3 35

Sulfur 12

C willow 45

Dextrin 8

Ti sponge 20

Posted

spitfire: I do not see why you should diaper the green formulae, just screen it with an 80 mesh screen, it is perfectly safe.

 

I like to stay safe... had too many close calls in my pyro history. Lost a related pyro, nearly got my head kicked off if i where a foot closer, burned my complete hand once very badly, another friend has lost 80% of his hearing because of an accident, and found myself mixing 1kg of chlorate 70:30 flash 2ninja.gifexcl.gif and i suddenly realized i was an idiot. Ever since i have safety before productivity and ''doing it the easy way''. I love pyro in every fiber of my body, but i love my life too.

Posted (edited)

You have to understand/appreciate the greatness of this document. The creator has put in many, many hours of work into these formulaes. Lots and lots of testing and trying .The formulaes are very well balanced, and something different then the "usual"stuff. He goes in dept into priming layers , and is a very knowledgeable professional pyrotechnician .

 

spitfire: I had fallout issues with the Kamuro as well. There are 2 solutions.

 

1: shoot higher, this worked for me, and no fallout reached the ground. I screened this particular batch of Kamuro, and it had a long hantime. Much of the beauty of the effect depends on wind speed, very little wind is required to fully appreciate the beauty of the kamuro.

 

2: ballmill the Kamuro mix a bit, this speeds up the burn rate, and gives a cleaner burn at the expense of some hangtime.

 

Also I applaud you for being safe, but a green starmix compared to chlorate flash is something very different. An 80 mesh brass sieve will safely mix most starmixes, especially the ones you were referring too. The jetting you describe can be due to the mixture not being integrated well enough because of the diapering , the green star should not self propel. Again...it is always good to keep safety on your mind.

Edited by fredhappy
Posted
Thanks for sharing fredhappy, i do have brass screens, i may try to sieve it 2 or 3 times if it prevents ''swimming'' it's a nice bonus in a starmine, but not desirable in a shell. And that is what i made it for... sigh... the journey never ends!
Posted

I think Spanish, like all Roman languages, is beautiful. Only Latin and Italian are more pleasant to the ear. ^_^

 

Anyhow, on topic. I've only tried one red composition from that document. It was a bit too bright close up but will probably be deeper at a distance:

 

Potassium perchlorate 24

Strontium nitrate 24

Strontium carbonate 11

Red gum 10

Parlon 12

Magnalium 63µm 15

Dextrin 4

 

It is interesting that strontium carbonate as the only red colour donor will give an inferior colour but will make a good colour in combination with strontium nitrate. They are rarely used together, but I have seen it in a few compositions before.It will also be less sensible to damp climate, which many of us suffer from.

Posted (edited)

potassium chlorate:

 

I respectfully disagree with your statement that strontium carbonate gives an inferior red colour when it is the only colour donor in red star comps. Buell red is a very nice red and only relies on strontium carbonate for its red colour. The red no 1 from the Spanish document is different ( more deep red coloured to my eyes) but it is still very pleasing.

 

Buell red :

 

KCLO4 35

strontium carbonate 25

magnalium 230 mesh 14

Parlon 13

Red Gum 7

dextrin 6

I do agree with you on the known issues in regard to strontium nitrate and its hygroscopic properties. And I also agree that strontium nitrate as a colour donor gives deeper reds, but there is nothing wrong with buell red and red no 1 which rely solely on strontium carbonate.

Edited by fredhappy
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