optimus Posted July 29, 2010 Posted July 29, 2010 I've also seen Sodium Nitrate strobes, there are a few interesting Brazilian formulas including Strontium-based ones here - look for the post from Tovio: http://www.pyrosociety.org.uk/forum/topic/516-strobing/ Oh, and don't forget the Guanidine / Tetramethylammonium Nitrate strobes
Mumbles Posted July 29, 2010 Author Posted July 29, 2010 Have you ever tried out Toivo's formulas? I thought they were very interesting, but I never got around to trying it. We must have 6 different kinds of magnesium for the gringard reaction, it's hard to pick one.
optimus Posted July 30, 2010 Posted July 30, 2010 Have you ever tried out Toivo's formulas? I thought they were very interesting, but I never got around to trying it. We must have 6 different kinds of magnesium for the gringard reaction, it's hard to pick one. Nope, I got bogged down messing with blue strobes and forgot about them. The only Mg I have that's vaguely similar is some .5mm spheroidal - never found another use for it so I'm going to give it a go. CMC is wallpaper paste, right? I'm presuming I could just use dextrin?
Mumbles Posted July 30, 2010 Author Posted July 30, 2010 It depends. Some wall paper paste is CMC, some is wheat paste, some is vinyl. I don't expect the binder to be too critical to function.
50AE Posted August 1, 2010 Posted August 1, 2010 (edited) Full edit: I'm an idiot. This wasn't winokur 20, it was Blesser *26 white strobe. Damn, I lack sleep today. Hopefully, this thread discusses strobes too. It's a very nice strobe. I used MgAl -60 mesh for this one. http://pyrobin.com/files/w20.mp4 Edit: Oh yeah, sincere apologies from me and the camera guy. He doesn't have much experience in filming fireworks. Edited August 1, 2010 by 50AE
Mumbles Posted August 2, 2010 Author Posted August 2, 2010 Anyka, how exactly is the MgAl providing the extra heat to get all of the dragon eggs to light if there is nothing around for them to burn with? Commercial cracker balls use dragon eggs coated in BP or some other prime and some grain powder. The BP ensures everything lights, and helps propel them out a bit. Some prime on the DE's would probably be a lot more beneficial. If your dragon eggs are taking upwards of 15 seconds to complete the popping, you're definitely doing something wrong.
dagabu Posted August 2, 2010 Posted August 2, 2010 A question: I notice that almost all strobes have potassium dichromate added to them. The recipe it is used asa stabilizer. Is there any other stabilizer one could substitute?..Can one just leave out the potassium dichromate, and expect good strobe effects? Dichromate serves two functions in a strobe formula, it coats and protects the Mg and it add delay to the strobing effect though there are other ways to control that. Parlon has been looked at by Swede and he has had good luck with it as have I but it is not a recommended until it has made it through a full year in a formula with no degradation.
jwitt Posted August 2, 2010 Posted August 2, 2010 Parlon has been looked at by Swede and he has had good luck with it as have I but it is not a recommended until it has made it through a full year in a formula with no degradation. It would be great if it works out- I'm wary of working with Potassium Dichromate. Strontium and Barium Nitrate are plenty toxic for me I know I could do it safely, but a healthy fear is, well, healthy.
Mumbles Posted August 2, 2010 Author Posted August 2, 2010 You may want to see the first part of this post: http://www.amateurpyro.com/forums/topic/3884-pretty-star/page__view__findpost__p__66262 The huge string of posts could be seen as a violation of rule #7.
dagabu Posted August 2, 2010 Posted August 2, 2010 Anyka, Please pull back here, the rules here are published and should be followed. Rule #13, the God clause. Essentially it means that you dont piss the monitors off. Yell at me, the rest of us but dont challenge the monitors.
Mumbles Posted August 2, 2010 Author Posted August 2, 2010 Well, you certainly cause quite a disturbance everywhere you seem to go. The number of private messages I receive and reported posts I have to investigate would dwindle. I'd much prefer to see you become a productive member of this forum, but it seems that your ways have not changed over your little vacation. It's the same old stuff all over again. I would still love to hear from anyone who appreciates your posts, and finds you to be a valuable member of the forum. It would be nice to see both sides of the story. The following two subjects off the top of my head would be what I would consider to be of danger:Your yellow "star" is dangerousYou described how to make m-80's in great detailDismantling shotgun shells Much of the rest I take issue with is the incorrect information, and your attitude. I am sure you could say the latter about me too though. Yes Dagabu, #13 is my favorite rule. I try not to use it, but it's there if I need it.
50AE Posted August 3, 2010 Posted August 3, 2010 Alright guys, here is the Winokur 20! Very, very beautiful glitter. http://pyrobin.com/files/w20_1.mp4 I used 1/3 portion of MgAl +170 mesh and 2/3 MgAl +40 mesh.
explomaan Posted August 3, 2010 Posted August 3, 2010 How did you prepare the formule and with kind of charcoal did you use. I am looking to make winokur 20 myself but I only have -200 mesh magnalium. Probably I should use a coarser charcoal than you to extend the effect time?
50AE Posted August 3, 2010 Posted August 3, 2010 I cut the stars, binding with water and SGRS.I used a little coarse charcoal as well. The charcoal is uknown hardwood (I found a hard wood that was yellow in color and I charred it)
dagabu Posted August 3, 2010 Posted August 3, 2010 Alright guys, here is the Winokur 20! Very, very beautiful glitter. http://pyrobin.com/files/w20_1.mp4 I used 1/3 portion of MgAl +170 mesh and 2/3 MgAl +40 mesh. I am using W-20 now in my delay and I like it.
Chuleo Posted August 3, 2010 Posted August 3, 2010 I've been reading recently in this forum and now the time has come to ask a question Does anybody know a Formula of the stars used in this shell? http://www.pyrobin.com/files/vl_42b126.wmv They're very beautiful but i couldn't find a composition for a red glitter like this. Or is it maybe something like Winkour3? Ps. You may notice that since I'm from Europe english is not my native language. Please don't kill me for writing mistakes
Mumbles Posted August 3, 2010 Author Posted August 3, 2010 I've heard the Japanese have a distinctly pink glitter, but most of those type of effects with colored glitters are done with strobe microstars in a matrix comet. I don't think Winokur 3 will be quite that saturated, but then again I've never tried it. I bet it will have quite a long hanging tail. Go for it, and let us know how it looks. It at least has promise.
Chuleo Posted August 3, 2010 Posted August 3, 2010 Okay, I will give it a try in about two weeks. At the moment I have to wait until I can work with my left hand again (no it wasn't a pyro related accident). Is it possible to substitute the 50Parts KNO3 with 54 Parts Sr(NO3)2 in the Winkour 3 (or any glitter) composition? It should improve the color?
Cookieman Posted August 3, 2010 Posted August 3, 2010 Could also be a Winokur #1 comp. Here is a Winokur #1 test out of a gun.
dagabu Posted August 3, 2010 Posted August 3, 2010 I've been reading recently in this forum and now the time has come to ask a question Does anybody know a Formula of the stars used in this shell? http://www.pyrobin.c...s/vl_42b126.wmv They're very beautiful but i couldn't find a composition for a red glitter like this. Or is it maybe something like Winkour3? Ps. You may notice that since I'm from Europe english is not my native language. Please don't kill me for writing mistakes You are in fine shape, you ask intelligent questions, sound like you have some idea of what it should be, who cares what your native language is? Take a look around and see what kind of postings get a person yelled at, your is not one of them. Welcome!
Mumbles Posted August 3, 2010 Author Posted August 3, 2010 I have a long list of things to try for colored glitters. You bring up one of the problems, in that potassium nitrate is known to wash out colors. If I were going to be actively experimenting here again, I would be going along the same track you were. SrCO3 delay agent, and MgAl metal. I don't know about replacing all of the potassium nitrate with strontium nitrate. Barium nitrate is known to work in glitters, and help enhance them, so perhaps Strontium will do the same thing. I would slowly start swapping the nitrates. I've never seen a glitter with more than 20% barium nitrate, so I'd probably make some testers with 5, 10, 15, and 20 parts of the KNO3 replaced with Sr(NO3)2. If the glitter effect is still there at 20%, you can keep going. The other problem I think you will run into is the Sb2S3. It's known to burn quite white. This can be remedied with higher sulfur contents. To me, the jackpot mix to start with would be a combination of winokur 7 and 9, something along the lines of: KNO3 - 35Sr(NO3)2 - 20MgAl - 11Charcoal - 10Sulfur - 15SrCO3 - 5Dextrin - 4 If that still works, the next thing I would be playing with is the use of Strontium Oxalate (decomposes cleaner), and then replacing part of the remaining potassium nitrate with potassium perchlorate.
optimus Posted August 3, 2010 Posted August 3, 2010 If that still works, the next thing I would be playing with is the use of Strontium Oxalate (decomposes cleaner), and then replacing part of the remaining potassium nitrate with potassium perchlorate. I like the idea of using the Oxalate, mabye even trying to use something similar to the Von Baum Perchlorate glitters as a starting point I've tried ratios of Potassium/Strontium Nitrates with MgAl and SrCO3, none of which produced coloured glitter, to my eyes anyway. Tried quite a few variations including only Strontium Nitrate and never really got anywhere. It might just be my chems or technique, but I've pretty much written off the Winokur 'pink' glitters as a dead end. I'm hoping to source some Strontium Oxalate shortly and I will be doing some more tests. Until then it's microstars or photoshop: http://farm1.static.flickr.com/225/471319288_f6f9c5205f.jpg
Chuleo Posted August 3, 2010 Posted August 3, 2010 I've been reading a while about the chemistry of the glitter phenomenon.. Let me summarize: - Higher amount of oxidizer = more delay- availability of Carbonates = more delay (due to energy consumption) - Finer mesh = less delay- Aluminium instead of Magnalium = less delay (but less big and bright flashes) According to the Journal of Pyrotechnics the chemical equations should be: 1) Sr(NO3)2 + 3C + S -» SrS + 3 CO2 + N2 + Heat2) SrS + 2 O2 -> SrSO4 + Heat3) SrSO4 + 8AI -> 3 SrS + 4Al2O3 + Heat(Barium replaced by Strontium) There's just one Problem: Strontiumnitrate is less reactive than Potassiumnitrate and Bariumnitrate. Strontiumsulfide/sulfate has a high melting Point of >2000°C/1606°C which is higher than the one from Bariumsulfide/sulfate. This high melting point gives an extremely high delay (probably there's an unlimited delay)In order that the glitter phenomenon can take place, the meltingpoint of the sulfide must be lower than the one from de sulfate. The only usable salts are therefore: Potassium, Barium and Lithium(worse)-> Strontiumnitrate as an oxidizer won't give red glitter. One could use Lithiumoxalate will give a slight red/pink color, but the color gets washed out because most charcoals contain enough sodium to shift the color to yellow/orange/gold. Well it seems that we have to use microstars in a matrix to get a good red glitter
Mumbles Posted August 3, 2010 Author Posted August 3, 2010 You can wash out much of the contaminates from charcoals with nitric acid. In theory you should be able to wash it out with HCl, but I've heard first hand reports that the chlorides remaining will kill glitter effects. The high melting points of the sulfates and sulfides are why I don't think that you'll ever be able to get away from potassium nitrate entirely.
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