MediumRare Posted April 15, 2012 Posted April 15, 2012 (edited) I was brainstorming on my own as to what I can use it ignite hard-to-light compositions that have aluminum in them. Ideally, KNO3/si or kno3/al work great, but I don't want to have a nitrate mixed or touching aluminum in any way shape or form. Yeah, I know boric acid would somewhat solve that, but I was wondering if there are other hot priming mixtures that don't have incompatibility of kno3/Al or Kclo4/Sulfur etc... Also, would be a plus if they were easy to light. I am thinking something along the lines of bismuth oxide/silicon and red lead silicon used in Dragon Eggs? How easy is this mixture to light? Edited April 15, 2012 by MediumRare
dan999ification Posted April 15, 2012 Posted April 15, 2012 pinball prime, lights perc stars in pure flash breaks [bombettes and small shells/inserts] never failed me yet. dan.
FlaMtnBkr Posted April 15, 2012 Posted April 15, 2012 There is no need to reinvent the wheel and nothing wrong with al and nitrate, KClO4 and sulfur. The only problem with nitrate and al is if it is wet with water and allowed to dry real slow. If you are worried just use something besides water like NC lacquer, alcohol and red gum, parlon and acetone, etc.
mabuse00 Posted April 15, 2012 Posted April 15, 2012 (edited) I'll second pinball prime here. It works nice for me. KClO4/sulfur isn't that bad, as long as where not talking about flash or other powdered stuff I would not worry about it. If you are worried just use something besides water like NC lacquer, alcohol and red gum, parlon and acetone, etc.From my own experience I would not use some other binder than I used for the stars. That way you get a stronger connection between the layers, because the surface of the star gets dissolved to and mixes intimately with the prime, forming a soft change over . Otherwise your prime might flake off with a strong breakcharge. red lead silicon used in Dragon Eggs? How easy is this mixture to light?With BP ontop pretty easy, but why bothering with such toxic stuff unless it's necessary? Besides, this stuff is said to be very friction sensitive to - maybe even more than perchlorate/sulfur. Edited April 15, 2012 by mabuse00
Bcorso85 Posted May 3, 2012 Posted May 3, 2012 Hey guys. Just wondering what a pinball prime is? Is it what shimzui mentions in F.A.S.T. drill a hole into each star, then prime with a slurry?
Peret Posted May 3, 2012 Posted May 3, 2012 Pinball prime Potassium perchlorate 75Air float charcoal 15Red gum 10Dextrin + 5 For extra heat add +5 dark aluminum, MgAl or silicon. Dust the outside with BP to ensure ignition.
Potassiumchlorate Posted May 3, 2012 Posted May 3, 2012 Pinball prime is terrific. I add +6% silicon to mine.
Bcorso85 Posted May 3, 2012 Posted May 3, 2012 Thanks, is it hot enough to ignite a golden wave or chrysanthemum formula. I'm not a big fan of thermite.
tappsfireworks Posted June 29, 2012 Posted June 29, 2012 (edited) There is no need to reinvent the wheel and nothing wrong with al and nitrate, KClO4 and sulfur. The only problem with nitrate and al is if it is wet with water and allowed to dry real slow. If you are worried just use something besides water like NC lacquer, alcohol and red gum, parlon and acetone, etc. Could you elaborate on "real slow" please? ive seen some tutorials on coating rice hulls with BP, then while they're still moist dusting them with a 70/30 flash. I only ask because i was planning on doing this for my 3" burst charges.... should i put the brakes on that plan and go with KP or normal BP hulls with a small whistle boost? On a different note will -80 mesh MgAl work for pinball prime or is that not fine enough? i have some dark Al i can use if that's the case. Edited June 29, 2012 by tappsfireworks
dan999ification Posted June 29, 2012 Posted June 29, 2012 i dont prime charcoal streamers since i dont boost, if you want to break them hard you may well need some prime but i would use a bp based prime and save the perc for perc stars. imho pinball prime will work without the metal and even if the charcoal is not airfloat, i typically use 60-300 mesh mgal [mixed] the larger particle size although harder to light will give more chance of something hot touching the stars [hot spots] the smaller the particles the easier it takes fire and the faster it burns,i think dark al is a bit of a waste unless you can spare it, i save mine for its real job. make a ten gram batch with the mgal, if it is not satisfactory use the gd al or a mixture of the two, im sure it would burn nicely either way. dan.
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