spitfire Posted April 3, 2012 Posted April 3, 2012 Spitfire glitter #1Glitter star compositionspitfire KNO3 40Ba(NO3)2 14MgAl 63 mic. 12sulfur 10charcoal 11Red FeO 7Ba. carbonate 2 I've prepared these stars with an 11mm starplate. It is important not to over-wet this composition. I ballmilled the KNO3, Ba(NO3)2, S, C, and dextrin for 30 minutes before mixing in the other components by passing it 3 times trough a fine screen. The basic formula was taken from Winokur # 37, which uses atomized Al instead of MgAl. The original produces a very white long tail glitter, this one a yellow/gold glitter with medium sized flashes and a short delay. Spitfire green # 3Color star compositionspitfire Ba(ClO3)2 75Mannitol 12MgAl 63 mic. 10Dextrin 4 The mannitol can be replaced by hexamine or red gum. Be aware of the chlorate, do not mix with sulfur or sulfur based compositions. For priming, i used Ofca (C,30 KClO4, 65 Dextrin, 5) The composition was prepared by passing it through a brass screen with a brush for 3 times. Then slightly dampened. This composition is easily over-wetted, take small steps. Pumped with an 8mm starplate. IMPORTANT: do not speed up the drying process by placing the stars in a hot place like the bright sun or heater. Place in a cool dry place and have patience. 1
MikeB Posted April 4, 2012 Posted April 4, 2012 How much experience do you have with your green formula? I was always under the impression that chlorates and metals increased the sensitivity.
Givat Posted April 4, 2012 Posted April 4, 2012 do you have any movie of the glitter stars? does it looks better than Win20?
spitfire Posted April 4, 2012 Author Posted April 4, 2012 How much experience do you have with your green formula? I was always under the impression that chlorates and metals increased the sensitivity. Yes, it is a sensitive composition. Take great care when mixing this composition, and absolutely use a prime that protects it from chemicals the chlorate is not compatible with, like Ofca's. I used Barium Chlorate because it is ideal to make very clean, deep green stars even when they are very small. do you have any movie of the glitter stars? does it looks better than Win20?In my experience Win # 20 gives a less ''bushier'' tail. This one gives a rich tail of violent gold flashes with a medium delay, and leaving a trail of roughly 6Ft behind the star. It does leave some dross though, i may try it with a little black alu to avoid that. Remember that every pyro has chemicals from different places, and this might make a big difference in the burning characteristics of glitter stars! Years ago i got a small batch of Aluminium powder from a friend, and it made the most beautiful glitters i have ever made. Unfortunately that supplier quit more than 2 decades ago, and i was never able to produce the exact glitter again. Same goes for a Mg star... it used very coarse Mg that left a trail of burning Mg behind a red star. Can't get it anymore don't have a video yet, will try to get you one asap.
Potassiumchlorate Posted April 4, 2012 Posted April 4, 2012 Are you comfortable with mixing barium chlorate with hexamine? I have done experiments with barium chlorate and hexamine, but I'm a bit afraid of using it practically because of the possible formation of ammonium chlorate. I have also made a barium chlorate/Mg composition, but I didn't find it superior to organic ones.
spitfire Posted April 4, 2012 Author Posted April 4, 2012 Are you comfortable with mixing barium chlorate with hexamine? I have done experiments with barium chlorate and hexamine, but I'm a bit afraid of using it practically because of the possible formation of ammonium chlorate. I have also made a barium chlorate/Mg composition, but I didn't find it superior to organic ones. I share your idea about the hexamine, i have not used it for actual stars in shells, just for testing. Personally next time i go for red gum. Got a lot of it and it works great. The hexamine was just tested because it gives a large flame envelope, which is useful in colored stars. Next to that, i happen to have Mannitol, most pyro's don't so i included possible substitutes that give nearly the same results.
Potassiumchlorate Posted April 5, 2012 Posted April 5, 2012 Like I've said in other threads: it's a great shame that barium and strontium perchlorates are hygroscopic. Otherwise you could make marvellous stars with just barium perchlorate/hexamine and strontium perchlorate/hexamine, completely without metallic fuels.
spitfire Posted April 5, 2012 Author Posted April 5, 2012 True.. sadly it doen't work with all that water the perchlorate salts like so much. For now chlorate will have to do. Dangerous, yes. But speeding and smoking is dangerous too, they say. It is a quite slow burning mixture, in case of any accident while mixing, i am not afraid of getting too much damage as i only mix chemicals outside, in an open space where there are no other compositions or any dangerous goods. before it turns into a big ball of fire you have the time to drop the tools and turn around. It's not like fresh BP or flash that surprises and possibly kills you instantly when the pile is big enough. Of course it is wise NOT to stress the stars when loading them in a shell or any other action (don't shout at them). The possibility of forming Ammonium chlorate is another story. You made a good point there.
Potassiumchlorate Posted April 6, 2012 Posted April 6, 2012 Well, I can give you my own barium chlorate/Mg composition. It burns better than organic compositions, but the colour isn't superior IMHO: Barium chlorate 68Magnesium 63µm 12Parlon 12Red gum 8 The parlon is just there to protect the Mg.
spitfire Posted April 7, 2012 Author Posted April 7, 2012 Great, i'll try yours soon too. You bind them with acetone? Personally i always try to avoid using acetone, it gives me severe headaches even when only a slight streak of vapor passes. Got me a P5 full mask last year, but even the drying stars outside, or the workshop after an hour still bothers me. Takes all the fun out of making stars. Maybe it's caused by my work as a industrial painter, years ago just after high school...
Potassiumchlorate Posted April 7, 2012 Posted April 7, 2012 I use acetone, yes. I have a military protection mask, that can withstand tabun and sarin, so it stops the fumes from every chemical that we might use in our hobby. As soon as I make more than 100g or so, I use the mask. But of course it's more convenient and cheap to roll with just water and alcohol.
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