thunderboy Posted January 16, 2012 Posted January 16, 2012 I found some shell casings from my New Years show They show exactly what happened, only good was they were waterfall looks LOL ( just trying to make better than they were )
thunderboy Posted January 16, 2012 Author Posted January 16, 2012 Looks like you found your answer.... Yes i have only took a year to figure this out. lol just like a newbie
DanielC Posted January 16, 2012 Posted January 16, 2012 What were you using for break gran or riced? Are you still boosting them?
DanielC Posted January 16, 2012 Posted January 16, 2012 I couldn't tell from the video if the tape was the fiberglass reinforced type. I have been seperating the burst and stars in the shells and getting better symmetry. Its the same method I've seen in almost all the shell autopsies I've seen. I snapped a pic the other night of a 3" I was working on.
thunderboy Posted January 16, 2012 Author Posted January 16, 2012 What were you using for break gran or riced? Are you still boosting them? kp 6 to 1 hulls 1 gram flashdid the same on the paper wrapped ones what a difference
thunderboy Posted January 16, 2012 Author Posted January 16, 2012 I couldn't tell from the video if the tape was the fiberglass reinforced type. I have been seperating the burst and stars in the shells and getting better symmetry. Its the same method I've seen in almost all the shell autopsies I've seen. I snapped a pic the other night of a 3" I was working on. yes it was useing fiberglass reinforced tape 3 wraps but seems to me that the areas not taped is where the failure is
JFeve81 Posted January 17, 2012 Posted January 17, 2012 I had some of my small 1.75" round shells come back looking like this. Hard to get a good break on small shells regardless but I'll try wrapping in paper and see if that helps me out any.
thunderboy Posted January 17, 2012 Author Posted January 17, 2012 I had some of my small 1.75" round shells come back looking like this. Hard to get a good break on small shells regardless but I'll try wrapping in paper and see if that helps me out any. hey, let me know how they worked out
JFeve81 Posted January 17, 2012 Posted January 17, 2012 hey, let me know how they worked out Will do. Might be awhile though. Have a few other projects taking up my pyro time.
50AE Posted January 18, 2012 Posted January 18, 2012 (edited) It's fun to collect shell remains. With vacuum formed hemis, only the pasting paper can be found though, the hemi completely disintegrates it seems. Edited January 18, 2012 by 50AE
Potassiumchlorate Posted January 18, 2012 Posted January 18, 2012 I couldn't tell from the video if the tape was the fiberglass reinforced type. I have been seperating the burst and stars in the shells and getting better symmetry. Its the same method I've seen in almost all the shell autopsies I've seen. I snapped a pic the other night of a 3" I was working on. Hm, I get better symmetry too when separating stars and burst, but why? It's just a piece of tissue paper.
Potassiumchlorate Posted January 19, 2012 Posted January 19, 2012 (edited) I mean: does the tissue paper keep the stars fixed in their place or what? The burst charge alone would do that, if the shell is really thoroughly filled. Edited January 19, 2012 by Potassiumchlorate
thunderboy Posted January 19, 2012 Author Posted January 19, 2012 I mean: does the tissue paper keep the stars fixed in their place or what? The burst charge alone would do that, if the shell is really thoroughly filled. All i know is the rule of thumb is all materials in the shell should not touch each other so thats why you use tissue paper.The Chinese and the Japenese do it and they are the pros.
Mumbles Posted January 19, 2012 Posted January 19, 2012 I've always justified it by it keeping the burst centered, and the stars well locked into place. True or not, I've always felt that burst getting in between the stars and wall may hurt the symmetry as all the force is not originated from the center. If you want to get those perfect flowers every little bit helps. Now what is true is that burst leaking from the center in between the stars after the shell is closed will loosen the burst and possibly allow stars to shift. You'd have a hard time properly closing a shell if the burst was not contained in the center IMO anyway.
Potassiumchlorate Posted January 19, 2012 Posted January 19, 2012 I've always justified it by it keeping the burst centered, and the stars well locked into place. True or not, I've always felt that burst getting in between the stars and wall may hurt the symmetry as all the force is not originated from the center. If you want to get those perfect flowers every little bit helps. Now what is true is that burst leaking from the center in between the stars after the shell is closed will loosen the burst and possibly allow stars to shift. You'd have a hard time properly closing a shell if the burst was not contained in the center IMO anyway. Ay, there's the rub. Should have thought of that.
thunderboy Posted January 20, 2012 Author Posted January 20, 2012 I've always justified it by it keeping the burst centered, and the stars well locked into place. True or not, I've always felt that burst getting in between the stars and wall may hurt the symmetry as all the force is not originated from the center. If you want to get those perfect flowers every little bit helps. Now what is true is that burst leaking from the center in between the stars after the shell is closed will loosen the burst and possibly allow stars to shift. You'd have a hard time properly closing a shell if the burst was not contained in the center IMO anyway. Thanks Mumbles that the best answer i've heard and make sence
warthog Posted January 29, 2012 Posted January 29, 2012 (edited) I would say that you should go ahead and make the leap to paper hemis as well. At this point in my learning and experimenting I have decided that plastic hemis simply will never give me the results I want period. The only real way to get nice, symmetric breaks is to make a paper shell. If you are gong to the trouble of pasting a plastic hemi, and essentially this i hat you are doing with the paper tape you plan on using from now on, then you may as well go paper all around IMO. I would wager that once you do you will be amazed at the difference in the breaks you will be getting and how nice and round they will be. I am surely no expert on paper shells nor pasting but I am learning. Even with my sort of odd pasting and egg shaped shells my breaks have improved 100 fold. I will only be using my remaining plastic hemis when I am pressed for time or now and then for a change. I still like making Sky Mines with the plastic canisters so those will remain in stock plus the plastic hemis make a nice salute IMO so there are still a lot of good uses for them, I just don't think trying to make flowers in the sky is one of them. My 2¢ alone. Edited January 29, 2012 by warthog
thunderboy Posted January 29, 2012 Author Posted January 29, 2012 I would say that you should go ahead and make the leap to paper hemis as well. At this point in my learning and experimenting I have decided that plastic hemis simply will never give me the results I want period. The only real way to get nice, symmetric breaks is to make a paper shell. If you are gong to the trouble of pasting a plastic hemi, and essentially this i hat you are doing with the paper tape you plan on using from now on, then you may as well go paper all around IMO. I would wager that once you do you will be amazed at the difference in the breaks you will be getting and how nice and round they will be. I am surely no expert on paper shells nor pasting but I am learning. Even with my sort of odd pasting and egg shaped shells my breaks have improved 100 fold. I will only be using my remaining plastic hemis when I am pressed for time or now and then for a change. I still like making Sky Mines with the plastic canisters so those will remain in stock plus the plastic hemis make a nice salute IMO so there are still a lot of good uses for them, I just don't think trying to make flowers in the sky is one of them. My 2¢ alone. Thanks for your 2 cent ( can't find the sign) Yes i've concided to paper and after wrappin plastic whats really the point, Paper is KING period.
warthog Posted January 30, 2012 Posted January 30, 2012 (edited) The "¢" sign is made by holding the "option" key then hitting a 4 on a Mac, not sure how to get it on a PC though. I came to the same conclusion the same way, I was sitting there wrapping a plastic shell with gummed paper tape the same way I had read you wrap,paper hemis and it hit me... what the heck am I doing?!?! If I am going to go to the trouble of pasting in these shells, why not go aheads and do it right? As I said though, plastic has a place in this stuff. It just isn't for making nice, clean, symmetric breaks. You do make some nice color among other sorts so wth you changing to paper hemis you will be putting us all to shame with your shells before long. Edited January 30, 2012 by warthog
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