OLDGUYS TRIPLE BARREL CHARCOAL RETORT DESIGN

[NightHawkInLight]

A few pieces of charcoal tend to keep that brown tint in every batch with whatever method you use. My guess is that it is because of cooler spots in the retort that do not reach the temperature required to completely expel or burn whatever compound is that color in the wood. As the water and other volatiles boil off they would carry that compound with them as they migrate from the center of the board and leave them behind on the outside when they convert to gas. Every batch of charcoal I've ever made has had some pieces in it similar in color to what you have there. Edited February 26, 2012 by NightHawkInLight

[Peret]

FWIW, the pyrophoric nature of charcoal must be why it's labeled ORM-D (Other Regulated Materials - Domestic) for shipping. Even the bags of lump barbecue charcoal at the supermarket are marked ORM-D. I spent a while online looking for a list of ORM-D materials and didn't find charcoal anywhere, just things like perfume, car batteries and ammunition. It appears the shipping label is only required on items intended for resale, by the way.

[oldguy]

A few caveats for anyone thinking of building a triple drum retort based on my design.

 

1. You must fuel the fire barrel with very dry good hot burning wood fuel.

Otherwise, it will not reach or maintain the correct operating temperatures.

 

2. You must stoke the fire barrel as often as required to maintain maximum temperatures during charring.

 

3. 2X2 inch size wood is a about optimal size to char.

 

4. Charring wood should be stacked with left to right spacer wood dividers between back to front rows.

Which allows better heat distribution through the whole load.

 

5. Charring wood should be bone dry.

 

Otherwise, charring may take considerably more time than indicated here.

You may also end up with a considerable amount of under cooked material per load.

 

6. A flue far larger than 6 inch diameter between the firebox barrel & the upper drum increases heat transfer & operating efficiency significantly.

No “damper” is needed on the flue between the two drums.

A larger flue will also minimize creosote type residue build up inside the upper outer drum.

Edited February 27, 2012 by oldguy

[Givat]

I am sending out a few box's for others to test.

Other than that, I have a use for all I can make.

Sadly, I don't plan to sell any.

Sorry

 

What do you plan to do with all this charcoal?? it's factory amount of charcoal....

I think that one barrel will last me for over a year....and you say you want to cook twice a day.

[oldguy]

Other than for normal pyrotechnic use, or making BP, the specific use I have for large amounts of reactive charcoal is proprietary information with strict non-disclosure agreements in place.

 

 

[dagabu]

Other than for normal pyrotechnic use, or making BP, the specific use I have for large amounts of reactive charcoal is proprietary information with strict non-disclosure agreements in place.

 

 

 

It's BBQ then

 

-dag

[oldguy]

It's BBQ then

 

-dag

 

Yah… right….lol

 

My BBQ

 

 

 

[dagabu]

Ahhh, weapons of mass (body mass that is) destruction!

 

I gotta joke a little OG since that last post was SO cloak and dagger.

 

-dag

[oldguy]

 

Never thought I would be all gaga about charcoal.

 

But, I am just amazed by this type charcoal.

 

 

One of the thermocouple probes arrived today. So, we can find out the temp range.

 

 

Edited February 28, 2012 by oldguy

[oldguy]

Since I now have on hand enough crushed BP and/or spark effect grade charcoal to last a considerable time. I'm in no rush to redo my triple drum retort. The only change I am going to make is replace the existing 6 inch flue between the lower & upper outer drums, with a much wider & longer one. Which will make the unit much more efficient, by greatly increasing rapid heat transfer through a much bigger area between the upper & lower outer drums.

 

Looking back on the whole affair in retrospect. If one wanted to build a triple drum type retort like this very inexpensively. It is not necessary to utilize cast iron stove parts (door & flues), with the caveat that some simple welding is required.

 

If you can scrounge up a couple extra metal 55G drum lids. Simply cut the center of them in the shape of a door, about ¾ inch bigger than the opening you cut in the firebox drum. Double them by bolting them together. Position that door over the firewood feed opening you cut in the firebox drum & attach with hardware store nuts, bolts & hinges.

 

Then cobble together some kind of door latch arrangement, so the door opens & closes with ease.

The door opening may initially leak a little smoke when you fire up the firebox. But once the firebox begins to create a good draft, that should cease.

 

For a larger flue between the two outer drum, use some 1.5 inch wide x 1/8^th inch thick strap iron bent to the flue size - shape you want & weld it into place. For a chimney flue attachment on the upper outer drum. Simple bend another piece of strap iron into a circle slightly smaller than standard chimney stove pipe & weld it into place on the upper outer drum. That way, standard stove pipe can be inserted over that & held in place with sheet metal screws. That's about it, end of story.

Edited March 18, 2012 by oldguy

[wildbillsguns]

Hi every body. I'm brand new here.

I came here after searching for charcoal retorts for blacksmithing purposes. Coincidently, I recently bought several books on firework making so I have a 2nd reason to come back!

I wonder if any one knows how well this BP grade of charcoal would work in a forging situation. The retort looks great so if can be used for a dual purpose I will be building one for sure. Thanks Oldguy for your very informative thread!

I'll be back for more pyro info also!

wildbill

[MrB]

I cant help but feel using good BP grade charcoal for a furnace is a waste. But if you got plenty of good wood, why not. Go for it.

B!

[Mumbles]

I'd agree that the stuff we use deliberately for BP probably wouldn't be the best for foundry work. However, there is no reason a retort couldn't be used to make charcoal from other varieties of wood. I'd probably stick with the oaks, elms, hickories, etc for hot burning charcoal.

[rogeryermaw]

I'd agree that the stuff we use deliberately for BP probably wouldn't be the best for foundry work. However, there is no reason a retort couldn't be used to make charcoal from other varieties of wood. I'd probably stick with the oaks, elms, hickories, etc for hot burning charcoal.

 

And much longer burning for greater working times between refueling.

[wildbillsguns]

Thanks guys for the responses. I've been a metal worker since before the army and just short of retiring as a sheet metal worker next year. I've done structural steelwork, built medieval armor, supervised massive built up unit jobs, got certified as a gunsmith, and hung more ductwork than I ever want to remember, and for 25 years have dabbled in blacksmithing. I'm a Texan and BBQ is the main food group here, and as you probably guessed from the name wildbillsguns (or you looked up the website) I'm a FFl holder and am seriously into firearms including BP. I'm also interested in pyrotechnics, we have a fireworks display several times a year on our shooting range and blow up a bunch of tannerite beforehand. We are in a rural area in TX and I have lots of oak for charcoal and what we call cedar here, it's some form of juniper, to fuel the fire with. So if oldguys retort will work for all three purposes, WOW!! I'm sold. I will be skimming through the forums for info as I can. If any of you are coming/in the San Antonio/Austin area and want to do some shooting, let me Know!

 

Once again, thanks for the responses , I'm on my way

 

Wild Bill