oldguy Posted February 7, 2012 Author Posted February 7, 2012 (edited) Talked with a guy from Alaska today that has used a double drum wood stove to heat a hunting/fishing lodge for 8 years.He told me for a hotter cleaner burning fire & far better wood fuel efficiency. Put a good long wide grate in the firebox barrel. Provides better air circulation around the wood fuel & you get far finer ash.Also, using an open end bottom fire barrel with a lid & clamp ring.You can place a longer wider grate inside the firebox from the back side. Plus, it is easy to pull out the grate & clean out all the ash out the back end with a shovel.He said with a grate, his will burn hot 8 to 10 hours on 1 good load of wood fuel. Edited February 7, 2012 by oldguy
pyrogeorge Posted February 7, 2012 Posted February 7, 2012 good job oldguy!I like your posts with lot of photos!
oldguy Posted February 7, 2012 Author Posted February 7, 2012 (edited) FYI, I have a O/A cutting torch, electric welder, chop saw, etc.But, I am doing this build with nothing more than a drill, bits, a saber saw with metal cutting blades & a round metal file. The intent being ANYONE can build one with a couple simple inexpensive tools. Once this one is together and fully functional. If it works as well as hoped (fingers crossed).I would suggest anyone with a chop saw & welder use 1.5 or 2 inch heavy walled conduit or exhaust pipe for the piping. Then simply weld the gas vent pipe plumbing togather & in place.It would be far less expensive & much quicker to complete. Edited February 7, 2012 by oldguy
oldguy Posted February 7, 2012 Author Posted February 7, 2012 Lol….. ....... Improvised cool to the touch quick spin gate valve handle.
JFeve81 Posted February 7, 2012 Posted February 7, 2012 What did you make that handle out of? Fence post or bed post?
oldguy Posted February 7, 2012 Author Posted February 7, 2012 (edited) What did you make that handle out of? Fence post or bed post? It was some kind of schedule 40 3/4 inch OD aluminum curtain rod thing, from the metal scrap pile.It was FREE, expedient & functions perfectly. Edited February 7, 2012 by oldguy
oldguy Posted February 9, 2012 Author Posted February 9, 2012 (edited) Before insulation Refractory light weight grout mix Ramming grout Insulated Edited February 9, 2012 by oldguy
oldguy Posted February 9, 2012 Author Posted February 9, 2012 (edited) Prior to insulating the firebox drum. I mixed up a test batch, loaded / rammed a small soup can full of it & baked it in the oven, as a test.I started it off @ 200F for awhile, then throttled the oven up to 350 - 400F. That dried the insulation out HARD as a rock. The amount of water remaining in the silicate bond is governed by the temperature to which it has been exposed (assuming exposure was long enough to establish equilibrium). The temperature should be raised gradually as once the surface has skinned over, escape of residual moisture begins to be blocked. Puffing and blistering (intumescence) may occur as the retained moisture builds pressure and is expelled. The temperature is preferably held first around 200˚F (below the boiling point) until all moisture that can be evaporated at that temperature has escaped. Thereafter it may be gradually raised according to the degree of dehydration required. Obviously, it is not possible to fit a 55G steel drum in a normal oven. With this in mind, I placed a small ceramic electric heater inside the insulated drum for a few hours. Which I thought would work well. It did, to a degree. Once the drum was heated, because it is so well insulated, the temperature inside it would rise higher than the safe operating temperature of the heater & it automatically shut off around 150F. Once it cooled down, the heater would start up again & I let it cycle like that overnight about 12 + hours. Wanting the best slow cure possible, I figured a way to raise the internal temperature higher. I simply placed a Colman backpack gas stove inside the drum with a heavy steel pan on top the burner to help radiate heat. That brought the internal temp's up around 210F in short order with the drum lid slightly askew to let some heat escape . You have to refuel & pump up the Colman stove about every 35 minutes. I'm going to cycle it that way several hours, until the insulation is at least hard to the touch. Then, like a dumb asz, realized I had a lab grade hot plate in the shop that would work.Replaced coleman with this. Edited February 10, 2012 by oldguy
oldguy Posted February 10, 2012 Author Posted February 10, 2012 (edited) Once the insulation firmed up hard, set the unit back up horizontal. Added a protective end skinI left enough room to add 1/2 thick piece of fireproof backer board between the protective skin & the end of the drum.Just haven't cut it to fit yet. Sealed w/clamp ring Edited February 10, 2012 by oldguy
dagabu Posted February 10, 2012 Posted February 10, 2012 Truly a thing of beauty! Where do I put my down payment for one of those bad boys? -dag
oldguy Posted February 10, 2012 Author Posted February 10, 2012 Thanks for the kind words.Shipping one of theses puppies complete would cost an arm & leg. Hell Dag, you could build one in a heart beat.
dagabu Posted February 10, 2012 Posted February 10, 2012 Thanks for the kind words.Shipping one of theses puppies complete would cost an arm & leg. Hell Dag, you could build one in a heart beat. Naw, I have way too much on my plate right now to build a big ole retort. I'm coming down to your neck of the woods first week of June, think I could stop in and watch you make a batch? -dag
oldguy Posted February 10, 2012 Author Posted February 10, 2012 First week of June is when the snow is gone off my hvy eqt placer gold operation in Idaho.So, more than likely, I will be there to get things operational & the crew working.But, if that changes, you are more than welcome to drop by for a BBQ.I can get you a free suite for a few days at a local casino, as I have comps out the ying yang. Never posted a video in my life, but will figure out how .Once this big baby is tuned in & cooking, I will post one.
oldguy Posted February 10, 2012 Author Posted February 10, 2012 Heat shield over area where upper inner 30G drum will take the most hot flame abuse.
oldguy Posted February 11, 2012 Author Posted February 11, 2012 Removed the upper 45 degree elbow on the gas vent plumbing.Replaced with a T & added a 1 inch pipe, plus another gate valve.That way I can vent steam as it heats up & when it starts to omit flamable gas, divert the gas into the firebox drum.A few more tweeks & she is about ready to start cooking.
moondogman Posted February 11, 2012 Posted February 11, 2012 Wow if you put wings on it I think it will fly.Steve
gelamex Posted February 12, 2012 Posted February 12, 2012 I have had a look at the price of these kits in the UK. You may well laugh when I tell you the cheapest was £130, that is $204US for the basic kit without barrel. Welcome to ripoff Britain!
oldguy Posted February 12, 2012 Author Posted February 12, 2012 I have had a look at the price of these kits in the UK. You may well laugh when I tell you the cheapest was £130, that is $204US for the basic kit without barrel. Welcome to ripoff Britain! That is CRAZY. Do they add 300% VAT or something?
gelamex Posted February 12, 2012 Posted February 12, 2012 (edited) Unfortunately no, everything you guys buy for $ we pay for at least the same number in £ sterling and often a hell of a lot more. Been looking at the price of sightron scopes in the US, try doubling the number to get the cost in £. We just get ripped off. Edited February 12, 2012 by gelamex
allrocketspsl Posted February 12, 2012 Posted February 12, 2012 Removed the upper 45 degree elbow on the gas vent plumbing.Replaced with a T & added a 1 inch pipe, plus another gate valve.That way I can vent steam as it heats up & when it starts to omit flamable gas, divert the gas into the firebox drum.A few more tweeks & she is about ready to start cooking. a friend of mine in Miami has an art gallery I showed her your master piece and she wants to put it in her lobby.She pays big bucks for retorts!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!Damn nice job.GOLD huh!Soon paper money will be toilet paper.Maybe 6 months maybe sooner,golds the way and silver and of course PLATINUM! jeff
NightHawkInLight Posted February 12, 2012 Posted February 12, 2012 I'd love to sit down and learn a little about your mining operation one of these days OG. That's fascinating to me.
oldguy Posted February 13, 2012 Author Posted February 13, 2012 I'd love to sit down and learn a little about your mining operation one of these days OG. That's fascinating to me. I will pm you in a day or 2.Placer gold mining is like a lost art.
oldguy Posted February 13, 2012 Author Posted February 13, 2012 (edited) Lower drum gas jet nozzle Upper inner drum gas intake About all that's left is a little tinkering & tightening here & there.Bolt on the cast iron door..Build a grate & split kindling. Then It's burn the paint off time. Edited February 13, 2012 by oldguy
oldguy Posted February 14, 2012 Author Posted February 14, 2012 Door on Grate in through the back door.Built from 1.5 X 1/8th inch angle iron & welded Highly recommend Imperial brand stove & gasket sealer (from Coast to Coast hardware)Applies like about like RTV gasket silicone, with about a 90 second working time before it starts setting up.Will withstand 2000F.
dagabu Posted February 14, 2012 Posted February 14, 2012 Saweet! Nice build, now lets see it all cherry red! -dag
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