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Alu flakes in wheel driver / fountain


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Posted (edited)

Hi all!

 

i would make a power fountain (to be used also as a wheel driver).

 

in my last good experiment i simply used:

 

plain BP 80

Alu spherical atomized (325mesh) 7%

MgAl 325mesh 7%

MgAl 230 Mesh 6%

 

Very good result, but i want a longer spay tail, so my plan is to

ADD Alu flakes (i have 325mesh stearine stabilized) - I READ that flakes produces longer and brighter tail... but i don't know if 325mesh will really do this. DO YOU CONFIRM?

ADD MgAl 100 Mesh

 

Now some question:

1- i will press the comp, and i know that ALU flakes and KNO3 (in the BP) is not a great JOIN. Should i avoid this? should i add some reaction hinibitor (i have only Boric Acid)?

 

2- i think i shouldn't change the BP quatity because i want a powerful spray also to move a wheel, so what could be the best solution for you?

Example: - remove Alu Atomized 325mesh and spread that 7% with new Alu Flakes and MgAl 100mesh?

- Don't remove anything and spread 20% between all alu mgal i have in any size

- other...

 

PS. i attach here a shot of my last wheel made with the comp wrote before.

Tube: 1 inch. hole in the nozzle: about 0,4 inches

just to give sizes. the wheel was tall about 1,5 meters from ground

 

post-10564-0-93192700-1324572023_thumb.png

Edited by pyrosailor99
Posted
The flake will brighten the tail, but won't extend it as much as the spherical aluminum or 100mesh MgAl will.
Posted
A smaller nozzle will make for a longer tail and more thrust. The trade off is a shorter burn time.
Posted

A smaller nozzle will make for a longer tail and more thrust. The trade off is a shorter burn time.

 

Flake makes lots or dross and clogs gerbs quite often so precede carefully with narrow nozzles.

 

-dag

Posted

ok, so i thinki will do this:

 

BP 80%

alu atomized 320mesh 5%

mgal 230mesh 3%

mgal 100mesh 3%

mgal 70mesh 3%

alu flakes 3%

Mg coarse 60-100mesh 3%

 

Any problem in using MG coarse? reaction risks?

 

i think i could add some Red Iron Oxide, but actually i cannot reduce the nozzle as actually i build my wood/brass former for the press with this sizes.

build another in this time of hard work for me would be spent too time in build and too few time in shot...

Posted

bp mg/al 80/20 60-300 mixed mesh mg/al, larger metal 100 mesh will extend the tail i find atomised al only increased/made a flame no real spray, large mg/al will also crackle a bit, some large ti would give the sparks you want and bp plus the spinning wheel should spread it out nicely

since you have flake maybe try firefly, different i know.

here is a fountain 80/20 only pressed with hand pressure and no nozzle

http://youtu.be/zIhWP0HHJpc

a wheel with the same driver

http://youtu.be/rXPq28OiajI

short burn but hey i need a press, i find this combo very powerful and needs taming a bit with some charcoal or slower bp-careful with a nozzle.

 

dan.

 

 

Posted (edited)

Flake makes lots or dross and clogs gerbs quite often so precede carefully with narrow nozzles.

 

-dag

 

Thats true, i prefer to go with hot fuel and a bigger nozzle to strike a balance between speed and clogging. A 3/8" nozzle in a 3/4" id tube can handle 1/4" microstars embedded in the comp without any trouble.

Edited by Col
Posted

Thats true, i prefer to go with hot fuel and a bigger nozzle to strike a balance between speed and clogging. A 3/8" nozzle in a 3/4" id tube can handle 1/4" microstars embedded in the comp without any trouble.

 

Yea, that's what I am talking about, thanks for putting that down in the correct words.

 

-dag

Posted

i think the same thing. there is a thing i havent said before. the wheel you see in the pic was made with 80%BP... but for real that 80 was made 1/2 by really good HQ BP, and 1/2 by a slow BP made with charcoal not very good. the second BP is bad enough that could not be used to make LIFT CHARGE...

 

i can guarantee that the driver had a big big big thrust as the weel was working (in the pic) with only 1 driver lighted at time and it was turning at high speed! so i really don't need to reduce the nozzle.

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