dagabu Posted December 22, 2011 Posted December 22, 2011 Any good ways of filling 80 inserts with powder? I tried to make some funnel scoops from alu cans, but the powder sticks right where it should go through. Did I mention that I hate side fusing? Been drilling holes all evening. I have a stainless steel funnel that is attached to an electric engraver (yes, there is a spark hazard and steps have to be taken to reduce the exposure to fire) and that makes any difficult powder flow well in the cases. -dag
allrocketspsl Posted December 22, 2011 Posted December 22, 2011 do like the chinese and japanese do,bundle say 40 then in a trough scoop it in easy and you get same in each
athlon Posted December 22, 2011 Author Posted December 22, 2011 I saw that on youtube when they filled their bundles, guess it's pretty messy.I tested one rocket with a header today, but unfortunately the rocket blew out the nozzle and the break was not nearly as good as it should have been. The timings seemed fine though. Will try with pasted header next time.
dagabu Posted December 22, 2011 Posted December 22, 2011 The only real flaw I see is the use of visco and the lack of an angled cut to expose the core to fire. For timing sake, it can be valuable but with that much sticking out of the insert, the break can sever the visco (I have recovered many inserts that this happened to) and keep it from passing fire. -dag
athlon Posted December 22, 2011 Author Posted December 22, 2011 Ok, so what should I have used instead of visco? Next header is finished, spiked and pasted. Will see how it performs that way...
dagabu Posted December 22, 2011 Posted December 22, 2011 Traditionally, black match or a BP slurry is used to light them. These appear to have 2 seconds or more of delay to them so they are not likely to light at the time of the break. If they do, it's because the Visco broke and let the fire in. Any shell is a good shell, live and learn -dag
athlon Posted December 22, 2011 Author Posted December 22, 2011 What about timing with black match? It'll burn wherever the sparks reach. Maybe glue a comet on the fuse hole and when it burns through the fuse gets lit. I'll see when I have tried the new shell.
warthog Posted December 22, 2011 Posted December 22, 2011 (edited) sorry, I am a page or two behind shutting up now. Edited December 22, 2011 by warthog
Mumbles Posted December 23, 2011 Posted December 23, 2011 It kind of depends on what effect you want. Slurry can give a delay, but requires some dialing in. If you want to see what's possible with slurry, check out some maltese beraq. If you want a delay, you might want to look into an insert called "saettines". There are numerous other spellings. A stick of blackmatch and rammed sawdust or clay are used to provide the delay. They're not extremely precise, but will give a good "fusillade". They kind of preform randomly over a short period of time. I've seen plenty of people use visco with success though, so it can be done. The danger of breaking the fuse or blowing through it become more with longer fuses. A way around this is to wrap the delay you want with aluminum foil, or foil tape and keep the majority of it inside the salute if there is space. If there is only a little sticking out of the shell, the chances of shearing it off are relatively low. It also helps to give a more precise timing IMO assuming no sparks escape.
dan999ification Posted December 23, 2011 Posted December 23, 2011 visco is fine you do want to cut at an angle and prime them [ bp slurry then in meal d or meal ]though for good measure, time fuse would be king for timing, without going down the beraq routebut expensive and fiddly for small delays.the exposed visco does bother me i wrap mine as said to stop premature ignition from the sides and leave as little as possible sticking out.evryone says you need to point the fuses at the break or centre, the shell in the vid has top fused inserts arranged the opposite end from the time fuse and cannule and they work, priming and good confinement are the key to getting them all lit. dan.
dan999ification Posted December 23, 2011 Posted December 23, 2011 I have a stainless steel funnel that is attached to an electric engraver (yes, there is a spark hazard and steps have to be taken to reduce the exposure to fire) and that makes any difficult powder flow well in the cases. -dag thought about using wifeys favourite toy for this , the master uses the same method. dan.
athlon Posted December 23, 2011 Author Posted December 23, 2011 (edited) thought about using wifeys favourite toy for this , the master uses the same method. dan. My wife's favorite toy does not vibrate and I would feel uncomfortable attaching black powder devices to it... Do you all mean that I should dip the visco in bp slurry and then meal? If so then it clears some things up for me. Edited December 23, 2011 by athlon
dagabu Posted December 23, 2011 Posted December 23, 2011 thought about using wifeys favourite toy for this , the master uses the same method. dan. EWWWWWWW! I really don't think he uses a toy to vibrate the F down the funnel I'm joking, I'm joking!! LOL! Yes, I go the idea from him but since it is not an spark proof tool, I don' suggest the use of it. -dag
allrocketspsl Posted December 23, 2011 Posted December 23, 2011 My wife's favorite toy does not vibrate and I would feel uncomfortable attaching black powder devices to it... Do you all mean that I should dip the visco in bp slurry and then meal? If so then it clears some things up for me. yeah if you use visco split the end towards the canulle paint with a bp slurry prinkle with corse bp!
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