dangerousamateur Posted December 16, 2011 Posted December 16, 2011 Hi there, say, do you prime your dragons eggs, when you embed them in something like Glitter or Tigertail?Sure it will ignite them, but is there any serious advantage with extra hotprime?Such as better ignition for complete reaktion in a single pop?
dan999ification Posted December 17, 2011 Posted December 17, 2011 it really does depend on what you want, i believe the single pop to be more about the comp and the metal than the prime, if you use them as star cores up to a certain size no prime is really needed unless you need to protect them from the comp you are rolling on them, the bigger they get the longer they take to smoulder and react a good priming certainly wont hurt on larger eggs to get them going quicker/ almost instantly.my 16# eggs will ignite with bm and no prime i find bigger than 10# can do with some if they take more than one second to pop, too large and 100% ignition rate is difficult. dan.
usapyro Posted December 31, 2011 Posted December 31, 2011 I have had experiences with too hot of a prime burning up dragons eggs. I prefer to use a sliding scale of the silicone prime in parts like this depending upon dragon egg size. BP - 40 PartsKNO3 - 10>35 PartsSilicon Metal - 10>35 PartsAdjust silicone metal and KNO3 together. The 40/35/35 ratio is good for 2.5-3mm dragons eggs in my experience. However, I use bismuth dragon eggs that use red gum, not NC. So you may need to tweak things a little. You could use a sulfurless BP too if needed for compatibility. A good ratio is 79/21 KNO3/C
Seymour Posted December 31, 2011 Posted December 31, 2011 (edited) I've had a fair bit of variation in the behavior of dragons eggs in almost all aspects, including priming requirements. Some have seemed to need a hot flame/prime to explode well, while others perform excelently when embedded unprimed in a cool mix like Tigertail. While in general I've found bismuth trioxide eggs more ignitable than Lead tetraoxide ones, both have a wide range depending on various variables (particle size, formula...) Edited December 31, 2011 by Seymour
dangerousamateur Posted January 1, 2012 Author Posted January 1, 2012 Thanks for your opinions. I recently tried leadoxide/mgal ones with 100mesh mgal and found them a bitch to light. 325mesh lights immediately but does not bang loud enough @usapyro:For your 3mm eggs, what formula and mesh mgal do you use?
usapyro Posted January 2, 2012 Posted January 2, 2012 (edited) Video of my dragon eggs... At the very end of the video past the credits I use primed dragons eggs. They sound like guns going off in person. Formulas and MgAl amounts are listed below the video. Just expand the details. I designed those comps to be low toxicity, easy to work with, and cheap. No acetone, no lead tetraoxide, and low bismuth. You can even use dextrin and other water binders with these comps. I prefer ethanol and red gum. Fast and nontoxic. Edited January 2, 2012 by usapyro
dangerousamateur Posted January 2, 2012 Author Posted January 2, 2012 Thank you.These are really great. Like small salutes Unfortunately I only have leadoxide. Can someone suggest me a formula with lead that works good with bigger sized eggs?
usapyro Posted January 3, 2012 Posted January 3, 2012 Yea, that was my plan... Making dragons eggs of a size and loudness that would be a good substitute for flash firecrackers. I don't really care for the small crackling ones personally. It may be possible to substitute lead tetroxide for the bismuth trioxide in my formula. However, the ratios would probably need to be tweaked. I may test that sometime. Lead tetroxide isn't dangerous unless you inhale or eat it. It's pretty much insoluble in water and alcohol, but stomach acid can dissolve it.
dan999ification Posted January 3, 2012 Posted January 3, 2012 large eggs behave like this,most lead formulas do, if you make large eggs the trick is making them solid and knowing for sure the ratio of your mg/alive been reading recently that it is the magnesium content that fuels the smoulder phase and that if there is more mg present at this time the smoulder is shorter and one pop is likely, also that it is the al that fuels the flash phase .i have found that comps with added al to be louder than those without [maybe my mg/al is wrong] dan. i'll dig some comps out for ya
FlaMtnBkr Posted January 5, 2012 Posted January 5, 2012 usapyro: The delay on your eggs is realllly long. Do you ever use them in shells where they are moving through the air? I would think that most would be blown blind. At least that's my experience with eggs I've made with a long delay. They are loud though which if you can get a lot to go at once they can be really loud. I made some once that when a pile of primed stars was lit, they would all smolder and go off at one time. It almost seemed like they detonated and a quarter size pile was as loud as a few grams of hot flash in a tube. They are a neat reaction for sure.
usapyro Posted January 5, 2012 Posted January 5, 2012 (edited) I regularly launch them out of miniature paper tube mortars and include them in shells. I never have any problems because around 2mm of prime is applied to them in a star roller before use. You only need around 1mm but I like having them perfectly round for launching out of very small tubes. If you use a finer mesh MgAl you can make them faster. However, you can't make them quite as big. Another thing that could "possibly" speed them up is to lower the KClO4 by half and use a hotter prime. A more reactive oxidizer might also help, or possibly lower the MgAl amount a little. That would all have to be tested. They are perfect for what I use them for. I need to make some with 80-120 mesh MgAl and see how big I can make them... Edited January 5, 2012 by usapyro
Dean411 Posted January 15, 2012 Posted January 15, 2012 I too spent alot of time and wasted alot of Lead Tetraoxide but finally came up with a nice single crack thats quite loud here is the formula Red Lead 64 %Cuo 12.5 %Al 400 mesh 7 %Mg/AL 200 or 325 mesh 16.5 % I had no luck getting the single pop until I added the 400 mesh Al mixed with NCL until very thick syrup pour it onto some wax paper let it setup about 10 minutes and then cut them to the size of your preferance.
dangerousamateur Posted January 15, 2012 Author Posted January 15, 2012 Thank you for sharing your recipe.What kind of aluminium did you use, flake or atomized?
Dean411 Posted January 17, 2012 Posted January 17, 2012 400 mesh atomized they are actually quite loud.
killforfood Posted January 17, 2012 Posted January 17, 2012 Where is there a good source to purchase Bisthmus from? "Wallet Lighter" doesn't count.
Dean411 Posted January 17, 2012 Posted January 17, 2012 Where is there a good source to purchase Bisthmus from? "Wallet Lighter" doesn't count. PM sent For future referance this isn't the place to ask this there is an area for suppliers from now on look there.
pyrovinny Posted June 13, 2015 Posted June 13, 2015 can some one what the Ti does in the smolder comp and if there is a substitute for the Ti ?
GMetcalf Posted June 14, 2015 Posted June 14, 2015 The Titanium doesn't affect the crackle effect much and just acts to show some sparks. The Magnalium is what has an effect on the smoulder time and hence delay before crackles. Smaller mesh sizes react faster I believe and also possibly louder. I expect you could have two different mesh sizes of Magnalium to change the effect instead of Titanium. Maybe some 250# and 60#.
pyrovinny Posted June 16, 2015 Posted June 16, 2015 ok thank you very much ya i dont have the Ti so I was trying to figure out what i could sub it out for and you gave me the answer!
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