dan999ification Posted November 14, 2011 Posted November 14, 2011 i use the same priming method as mumbles, if the pattie is too wet or too dry when you cut, the surface of each star can ripple up looking untidy but you get some jagged edges that will take fire easy.if you roll the pattie out between some shims as opposed to squashing by hand you can roll the prime on both sides without increasing the finished stars size, then cut.once cut i roll or shake them in prime to coat the edges dry them and re apply some more.turns out ive been using pinball prime just never payed attention to the name.pot perc 71airfloat c 14red gum 9magnalium 620g should prime 100g stars nicely i only make it ten grams at a time you can swap out the redgum for dex and bind with water if you wish. dan.
Mumbles Posted November 14, 2011 Posted November 14, 2011 Don't swap out red gum for dextrin. It's a fuel in that formula before it's a binder, and making some a drastic substitution will completely change the formula. The directions that came with the formula specify the base formula (perc, charcoal, and RG), and then go on to say that if it is to be water bound you add +1oz/lb of dextrin, and that the heat can also be increased with +1oz/lb of Al, MgAl, or Silicon.
mabuse00 Posted November 14, 2011 Posted November 14, 2011 (edited) I never tried it but since we wont both, a prime hot and also sensitive enough, why not using a pinball style perchlorate formula and add some sulphur?Same thing in veline superprime: why not swap the hated (and difficult to get ) dichromate for sulphur to ease ignition? Or just use KP and add +5% Si? Perchlorate burns hotter than nitrate and should be much more sensitive. Thus far I'm fine with BP and +5Si, but I had some failures... Edited November 14, 2011 by mabuse00
dangerousamateur Posted November 16, 2011 Author Posted November 16, 2011 pot perc 71airfloat c 14red gum 9magnalium 6 Succesfull test. Quick and dirty - just some stars and some slow flash in a TP roll on the ground. For rocket headers I will add some meal prime on top.
dan999ification Posted November 17, 2011 Posted November 17, 2011 Don't swap out red gum for dextrin. It's a fuel in that formula before it's a binder, and making some a drastic substitution will completely change the formula. The directions that came with the formula specify the base formula (perc, charcoal, and RG), and then go on to say that if it is to be water bound you add +1oz/lb of dextrin, and that the heat can also be increased with +1oz/lb of Al, MgAl, or Silicon. ok, i never have and i should not have said its only it was recomended by a mod on a uk forum, i took as gospel, i havnt used the prime long or much and should really look up the prep before talking about it. dan.
dangerousamateur Posted November 30, 2011 Author Posted November 30, 2011 Adding alcohol to the acetone will greatly reduce how sticky the stars are.How much should I use?
Mumbles Posted November 30, 2011 Posted November 30, 2011 The original source of all this Parlon cutting stuff is Pyrotechnica VII. It's also where the alcohol hint comes from. Perhaps you should consider purchasing it to get the information from there.
Potassiumchlorate Posted December 4, 2011 Posted December 4, 2011 It's not hard to ignite parlon stars that are well done. The really tricky thing is to do them well, i.e. avoiding getting water trapped inside them. I made some blue parlon stars recently, and the air was pretty humid, so they might no work properly. They ignite well, but they might be scattered by the burst in a shell. Rolled parlon stars are the best but hardest to make. David Bleser advices to make them on a hot summer day but in the shadow.
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