californiapyro Posted November 12, 2011 Posted November 12, 2011 think you missed dag's entry allrockets... eek 3 days! better get aworkin' on it
californiapyro Posted November 13, 2011 Posted November 13, 2011 http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=OyB26LDcT4k firing it tonight!
californiapyro Posted November 14, 2011 Posted November 14, 2011 okay, post number 100 and my first official contest entry! here it is... the fuses jumped and so I only got 4 changes, however i still had 4 colors (one got washed out on cam) and i thought it looked nice http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DgEpWdLE-tA
warthog Posted November 14, 2011 Posted November 14, 2011 Looked darn good to me, all of the entries did, including Dag's!
allrocketspsl Posted November 14, 2011 Author Posted November 14, 2011 Don`t wait on me..break out the wheel frame and get cracking I`ll be using front facing pots on this one as theres nowhere else they can go really. I plan to use 8 pots, one for each driver, alternating between glitter and colour so it should make the fusing easier.Here`s my planned fusing layout, the black drivers are on the front of the frame and the white ones are on the back. The 3 black circles (holes) provide easy access from the rear drivers. The drivers extend a lot further out from the frame than shown in the picture http://i770.photobucket.com/albums/xx341/colinspyro/2011/saxonlayout.jpg ok thats it Im breaking out my wheels and using the octo for my selection,great work cant wait to see this fired up
allrocketspsl Posted November 14, 2011 Author Posted November 14, 2011 okay, post number 100 and my first official contest entry! here it is... the fuses jumped and so I only got 4 changes, however i still had 4 colors (one got washed out on cam) and i thought it looked nice http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DgEpWdLE-tA damn nice wheel mate,yeah the fuse can do that run al tape ontop of it helps protect it still awesome four directional!
Col Posted November 14, 2011 Posted November 14, 2011 Nice bright wheel, great job on the colours too. You can increase the matchpipe fireproofing by laminating them from aluminium turkey foil, 70gsm kraft and pva glue.
allrocketspsl Posted November 15, 2011 Author Posted November 15, 2011 think you missed dag's entry allrockets... eek 3 days! better get aworkin' on it damn how did i miss his how many days left in the challenge
allrocketspsl Posted November 15, 2011 Author Posted November 15, 2011 Sorry about the focus, the thing hasn't behaved since I dropped into a waterfall... http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=oMf6tjhdCag&feature=youtube_gdata&noredirect=1 -dag damn boy great work four changes,california got me onto yours missed some how.Nice smooth transitions on the saxons and ti to bp looked good,going to be tuff yours was pretty clean no off fusing and all very pro mate
Col Posted November 15, 2011 Posted November 15, 2011 damn how did i miss his how many days left in the challenge You have till December 15th midnight 2011 eastern standard time About 4 weeks left by my reckoning so there`s still plenty of time. I`ll have wheel #2 ready by the weekend.. I`ve done all the testing so this one should be perfect
californiapyro Posted November 15, 2011 Posted November 15, 2011 oh whoops, thought the deadline was november 15 well ill be entering again! cant wait to see yours col thanks for the kind comments everyone
allrocketspsl Posted November 15, 2011 Author Posted November 15, 2011 ok had me worried Im gonna have an entry so hold onto your boots mates
Col Posted November 16, 2011 Posted November 16, 2011 ok thats it Im breaking out my wheels and using the octo for my selection,great work cant wait to see this fired upIf your octo frame layout is anything like mine you`re in for hours of creative fusing fun I have half of the 14 matchpipe tubes curved to the right shape.. it`ll look better when its done lol http://i770.photobucket.com/albums/xx341/colinspyro/2011/saxon%20number%20two/foundationforfusingthewheel.jpg
Algenco Posted November 16, 2011 Posted November 16, 2011 guys to me these are looking more like wheels than Saxons
californiapyro Posted November 16, 2011 Posted November 16, 2011 yeah true... allrockets can you clarify whether it needs to be a wheel or a saxon?
Col Posted November 16, 2011 Posted November 16, 2011 (edited) The frame makes it look like a wheel but the drivers are saxons with the vent 90 degrees to the tube.. Using normal wheel drivers in this configuration would make it a set piece 7 down with 7 to go.http://i770.photobucket.com/albums/xx341/colinspyro/2011/saxon%20number%20two/passfiretopots.jpg Ned shows a cross-shaped 4-tube saxon near the bottom of this page. http://www.skylighter.com/fireworks/how-to-make/advanced-saxons.aspHe used a halving joint to connect the two dowels at 90 degrees.Whatever its called..its getting there http://i770.photobucket.com/albums/xx341/colinspyro/2011/saxon%20number%20two/potsattachedtoframe.jpg Edited November 16, 2011 by Col
allrocketspsl Posted November 16, 2011 Author Posted November 16, 2011 col is correct mine to are saxons as the vent hole is 90 degree to the tube,just lined up differently by the way i decided to make the first place prize a NEW AND IMPROVED "CTFC!
allrocketspsl Posted November 16, 2011 Author Posted November 16, 2011 (edited) The frame makes it look like a wheel but the drivers are saxons with the vent 90 degrees to the tube.. Using normal wheel drivers in this configuration would make it a set piece 7 down with 7 to go.http://i770.photobucket.com/albums/xx341/colinspyro/2011/saxon%20number%20two/passfiretopots.jpg Ned shows a cross-shaped 4-tube saxon near the bottom of this page. http://www.skylighte...nced-saxons.aspHe used a halving joint to connect the two dowels at 90 degrees.Whatever its called..its getting there http://i770.photobucket.com/albums/xx341/colinspyro/2011/saxon%20number%20two/potsattachedtoframe.jpg just make sure you offset the vent holes so one wont burn into the one next to it alternating is the way i did mine.I think I was the one who said the fusing is time consuming,lol been there,I to as Ned does use a rammer like his so I can drill through the clay into the comp so the vent hole wont enlarge as it burns Edited November 16, 2011 by allrocketspsl
Col Posted November 16, 2011 Posted November 16, 2011 i didn`t take any chances with this one, i dont plan on making a third The vents are offset by a good 2" which should be enough but i can angle them out a bit more if needs be. I used a 45 degree tapered drift to make sure the vents are located inside the clay and for extra insurance the vent holes are reinforced with superglue. Its even heavier than the last one (1.1kg) but if everything goes to plan ( famous last words) it should run for 60 - 64 seconds.
allrocketspsl Posted November 17, 2011 Author Posted November 17, 2011 i didn`t take any chances with this one, i dont plan on making a third The vents are offset by a good 2" which should be enough but i can angle them out a bit more if needs be. I used a 45 degree tapered drift to make sure the vents are located inside the clay and for extra insurance the vent holes are reinforced with superglue. Its even heavier than the last one (1.1kg) but if everything goes to plan ( famous last words) it should run for 60 - 64 seconds. and with the ball bearings weight will be the inertia,trick i spin mine when they are this size to get it going light fuse give it a push helps alot,once the things going weight shouldnt be a problem you have plenty of power.laying out mine tomorrow moning will ram saxons then hopefully construct in a day or two.Unless i get a big "CTFC" order then I will most likely have to scrap the whole thing,lol!Damn I hate making money,lolololol!
Col Posted November 17, 2011 Posted November 17, 2011 If this one needs a push to get going i think it would probably keep stopping. I used hot 75/15/10 in the drivers as each one will need enough thrust to overcome the inertia and any unbalanced weight distribution at every direction change. Once lit, even with an initial push, they`re on their own after that
Algenco Posted November 17, 2011 Posted November 17, 2011 If this one needs a push to get going i think it would probably keep stopping. I used hot 75/15/10 in the drivers as each one will need enough thrust to overcome the inertia and any unbalanced weight distribution at every direction change. Once lit, even with an initial push, they`re on their own after that Using a slower burning comp (less thrust) would allow for longer burn timesYou could use higher trust comps to get things started, once you overcome inertia it takes less to keep it moving Girandola builders use a similar method, except in reverse using low thrust gerbs for effects and to get things moving, then the high powered motors kick in for launch
californiapyro Posted November 17, 2011 Posted November 17, 2011 (giving away my secret here) i use slow-fueled drivers for the outer ones and fast-fueled drivers for the inner ones. it's more balanced that way.
Algenco Posted November 17, 2011 Posted November 17, 2011 (giving away my secret here) i use slow-fueled drivers for the outer ones and fast-fueled drivers for the inner ones. it's more balanced that way. oops sorry I'm contemplating/ researching/ preparing to try dolas anyone considering dola's should cotact Vintageracer, he makes very nice lightweight PVC frames on a CNC
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