zenen1 Posted September 18, 2011 Posted September 18, 2011 hey guys, i am going to be ordering a few metal powders soon but when i saw the options a questions crossed my mind. I want the titanium mainly for adding to bp fuels to give them a nice tail and some white sparks. which would be better. 10-20 mesh mix or 40-100 mix?
pyrojig Posted September 18, 2011 Posted September 18, 2011 I'd suggest the smaller size ( 40-100M) , for fuel additive. This (mainly speaking of rockets) smaller mesh will not get stuck in the nozzle of the rocket and cause a CATO. I have used up to 325 mesh as a heading fuel ( above the spindle) . It is a very showy effect and in core burners it starts( the sparks) to show up very quickly after take off. hey guys, i am going to be ordering a few metal powders soon but when i saw the options a questions crossed my mind. I want the titanium mainly for adding to bp fuels to give them a nice tail and some white sparks. which would be better. 10-20 mesh mix or 40-100 mix?
AdmiralDonSnider Posted September 18, 2011 Posted September 18, 2011 I don´t see any use for Ti as coarse as 10-20 mesh. Are you sure this isn´t a typo? 40-100 could be a good choice for stars, even brocade willows, but for rocket fuel additive I would go even finer, like pyrojig suggested. FeTi also works fine.
ExplosiveCoek Posted September 18, 2011 Posted September 18, 2011 (edited) 40-60 is very nice in rockets (whistle, bp).. 10-20 mesh is nice for big-ass 2'' fountains and salutes. Works like a charm ! Be sure to send the 10-20 mesh Ti high up, otherwise it WILL come down. I've made a girandola once with some friends, and there was one big Ti trail from the girandola to the ground (10-20 mesh Ti too). It was great nevertheless ! For brocade willows you'd like to have a mix of very fine stuff, and 'larger' 60mesh stuff. Edited September 18, 2011 by ExplosiveCoek
californiapyro Posted September 18, 2011 Posted September 18, 2011 i ordered 10-20, and started a brush fire it's great for making salutes AWESOME, but not much else... smaller is better with Ti (up to a point) although, if your wallet can take it try a mix of 70 percent small mesh and 30 percent large mesh (that is, if you're doing coreburners with a large nozzle), it gives a nice bushy, long tail.
Ralph Posted September 19, 2011 Posted September 19, 2011 I don´t see any use for Ti as coarse as 10-20 mesh. Are you sure this isn´t a typo? 40-100 could be a good choice for stars, even brocade willows, but for rocket fuel additive I would go even finer, like pyrojig suggested. FeTi also works fine. its not a typo its great having really large Ti just like the grape nuts the americans so love here is a shell nski made using +8-12mesh Ti Ive been loving using similar Al and you should see how this gravel performs in salutes in a 2" multibreak I had a bigger spread from my bottom shot than I did the previous breaks (and the breaks were good) Its also big enough so that it doesn't really scratch my comet pumps
Seymour Posted September 19, 2011 Posted September 19, 2011 I'm going to agree with 10-20 being fantastic in salutes, larger fountains and rockets, and long tailed comets. 40-100 would be better suited for atars, and fountains, rockets and comrets where you need less fallout and a shorter tail.
allrocketspsl Posted September 19, 2011 Posted September 19, 2011 (edited) its beyond me why people use ti in cored rockets,such a waste when you can get sparky tails easily using 400 mesh cheap al and get great results,it does show up immediately since like my cored ones the burn is one second the other two or three are delay!! Give me a red tail anyday Edited September 19, 2011 by allrocketspsl
Seymour Posted September 19, 2011 Posted September 19, 2011 Because Aluminium can certainly give a nice effect, but it is NOT the same as Titanium. Throw 5% 10-60 Ti in a 25mmID coreburner and try and replicate that with Aluminium!!! However, my normal preference is a charcoal tail, and the addition of Fe, FeTi, Ti, Al or MgAl or a mixture of different grades/metals, all give different, nice effects for when I feel like something different.
pyrojig Posted September 19, 2011 Posted September 19, 2011 Because Aluminium can certainly give a nice effect, but it is NOT the same as Titanium. Throw 5% 10-60 Ti in a 25mmID coreburner and try and replicate that with Aluminium!!! However, my normal preference is a charcoal tail, and the addition of Fe, FeTi, Ti, Al or MgAl or a mixture of different grades/metals, all give different, nice effects for when I feel like something different. Very true....In my earlier years of rocket building... I almost destroyed a perfect set of rammers and spindle from to course of Ti, and bad judgement on using TI in the core fuel. It shows no mercy. It is a lesson learned, and only done once .lol. It really is hard to match the beauty of Ti as a heading fuel.... AL doesnt come close to the sharpness in the spark tail. I like the Ti sponge ...
Ralph Posted September 19, 2011 Posted September 19, 2011 its beyond me why people use ti in cored rockets,such a waste when you can get sparky tails easily using 400 mesh cheap al and get great results,it does show up immediately since like my cored ones the burn is one second the other two or three are delay!! Give me a red tail anyday To get Al working nicely you need to have a compatible fuel that either burns at the right temperature or creates the right conditions to get it to burn really nice and brilliantly, I havent tried this but id guess youd have a very poor ignition rate of the aluminium coming out of a whistle rocket on the other hand titanium if the comp burns and gives off gas youll get a briliant bright trail of sparks. If you can get Ti at a good price it can sure make life simpler (no experimentation required which admittedly takes away from the fun of it) if you pay $15 per pound for Ti than if you add a couple % to a comp your looking at around 15cents of Ti in a kg of comp and that makes allot of rockets
allrocketspsl Posted September 19, 2011 Posted September 19, 2011 (edited) for the rocket challenge one rocket will have 400 mesh al another 325 mesh then my fav FeTi! Nice to see the difference,then i will throw in one using my special comp for the long rusty red tails!! Edited September 19, 2011 by allrocketspsl
AdmiralDonSnider Posted September 19, 2011 Posted September 19, 2011 Ok, I stand corrected on the 10-20 mesh Ti. Sorry for the misinformation. It´s another thing you won´t find at EU suppliers...
Ralph Posted September 19, 2011 Posted September 19, 2011 Ok, I stand corrected on the 10-20 mesh Ti. Sorry for the misinformation. It´s another thing you won´t find at EU suppliers... Or is it Rene over at pyrostuff is selling some 1000-2000micron (aprox 10-18 mesh) Ti
ExplosiveCoek Posted September 20, 2011 Posted September 20, 2011 Admiral, maybe you should verify your sources better before you post something. This is how a lot of 'false' information gets on these forums. It's quite annoying for people to first read something, and then after two or more post find out that it's not true. Especially newbies who are reading and learning will have a hard time . No personal offence, but this is just what has been annoying me for the last couple of years on forums. And your giving a perfect example right now for me to comment on.
guntoteninfadel Posted September 20, 2011 Posted September 20, 2011 here is a shell nski made using +8-12mesh Ive been loving using similar What size shells were those?
Algenco Posted September 20, 2011 Posted September 20, 2011 What size shells were those? as the title states, they were 12" Palm treesI have a still a pic of the one he shot at PGI last year as my wallpaper, beautiful!
Ralph Posted September 20, 2011 Posted September 20, 2011 Admiral, maybe you should verify your sources better before you post something. This is how a lot of 'false' information gets on these forums. It's quite annoying for people to first read something, and then after two or more post find out that it's not true. Especially newbies who are reading and learning will have a hard time . Give him a break it makes sense that Ti that large wouldn't be any good most other metals would be rather iffy at that size he said he doesn't see a use for it. We wouldn't get very far in the field if experienced individuals didn't give recommendations with out quoting literature or providing other evidence we would all be wasting our time on pointless things that others could have told us "that probably wont work" and we wouldn't have any of the literature to quote Also at that size unless your making a really high % Ti comp It would give a really sparse tail in a star under 3/4" (which is bigger than most people put in a 6") so if zenen1 is not making salutes, shells 6" and bigger , or fountains/rockets 1.5" or larger Its true there is no real use for it (for him).
SjeefOne Posted September 20, 2011 Posted September 20, 2011 (edited) It would give a really sparse tail in a star under 3/4" (which is bigger than most people put in a 6") Unless you want to make "dahlia" shells right? I've pressed some of of these TT comets (18,5mm) with the same Ti (10-20 mesh). Very curious to see what they'll look like on fire in the air! must.make.shells.. these will go into 4" cylinder shells, I really like the dahlia effect. Edited September 20, 2011 by SjeefOne
ExplosiveCoek Posted September 20, 2011 Posted September 20, 2011 Give him a break it makes sense that Ti that large wouldn't be any good most other metals would be rather iffy at that size he said he doesn't see a use for it. We wouldn't get very far in the field if experienced individuals didn't give recommendations with out quoting literature or providing other evidence we would all be wasting our time on pointless things that others could have told us "that probably wont work" and we wouldn't have any of the literature to quote Also at that size unless your making a really high % Ti comp It would give a really sparse tail in a star under 3/4" (which is bigger than most people put in a 6") so if zenen1 is not making salutes, shells 6" and bigger , or fountains/rockets 1.5" or larger Its true there is no real use for it (for him). What use is a recommendation that's not true? But like I said before, it wasn't meant as an personal attack. Just had to say it because it has been annoying me for a long time that a lot of people, who are actually trying to help, post information that's not really correct. This has the opposite effect that way on the one who was asking the question. It's not like nobody is allowed to post anything anymore, but you've got to ask yourself if it's true.. or do you think it's true. Sjeef, when are you going to launch them, they should be dry by now right ;P?
AdmiralDonSnider Posted September 20, 2011 Posted September 20, 2011 (edited) Admiral, maybe you should verify your sources better before you post something. This is how a lot of 'false' information gets on these forums. It's quite annoying for people to first read something, and then after two or more post find out that it's not true. Especially newbies who are reading and learning will have a hard time . No personal offence, but this is just what has been annoying me for the last couple of years on forums. And your giving a perfect example right now for me to comment on. You have a point concerning my posts in this special case. Sorry for it. If posting misinformation is something particularly connected with my username, just let me know, anyone. As long as the "false" info is corrected, I don´t see why it´s necessarily annoying though. Others refer to the false post giving reasons why or why not something is the case or not, reasons not necessarily stated in "true" posts, so in fact there can be a surplus of information offered by the forum. I don´t see why newbies shouldn´t have this kinda "hard time". Edited September 20, 2011 by AdmiralDonSnider
ExplosiveCoek Posted September 20, 2011 Posted September 20, 2011 No, it's not connected with you normally. Just those posts . It was more of a 'heads up' for everyone to check if what they post is correct or not. There are a lot of noobs on forums nowadays who just want to post so they have something to say (again, this doesn't account for you AdmiralDonSnider). You're definitely right about others becoming involved in the discussion to correct other post. At first I wasn't going to comment on this topic, but now I did anyway . So you're right about that I guess. Ah well, guess this is all about being part of a forum I guess.
SjeefOne Posted September 20, 2011 Posted September 20, 2011 Sjeef, when are you going to launch them, they should be dry by now right ;P?Yup they're all dry now. I'm going to try and build 3 cans this week. 1 TT, 1 TT/Ti and 1 Willow, maybe combine one of them with timed reports. Those cardboard cans from PS are very nice! They'll be on top of my now working 31.7mm's
Mumbles Posted September 20, 2011 Posted September 20, 2011 This is a very minor thing. It wont compromise anyone's safety, nor set the hobby back decades. This is in no way directed at this thread or anyone on this forum actually. It does however get annoying seeing incorrect or at least questionable things posted, often repeatedly. There is someone that comes to mind from another forum unrelated to this one that regularly posts things that have no real proof or anything to back them up. That does get on my nerves as even when he is corrected or at least questioned about the validity of his claims he keeps on repeating and making them. As an example if someone here were to say that adding iron oxide to BP may speed up the burn rate, which is something I've seen mentioned before. Yes, transition metal oxides tend to be catalysts for the decomposition of perchlorates and chlorate which are also oxidizers, but chemically relatively unrelated to nitrates. It at least has some precedent to potentially be viable. This guy would probably go off on a tangent about how he's been adding 2% iron oxide to his BP for years, and it's the best thing since sliced bread. It increases gas production, burn rate, decreases caustic solids, solves world hunger, etc. A real pyro example would be that you can't add boric acid to glitters that contain basic salts like bicarbonate and oxalate because they'll just neutralize it. I see this over and over and it is completely not true. It's only when you're adding these basic salts is boric acid even useful or necessary.
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