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Phenolic resin C48>H42>O7


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Posted

One last shot here, PM me today if you want some resin, i will be picking it up on Sunday and shipping it a week later.

 

-dag

Posted

Better jump on this folks. Almost impossible to find.

Very spendy elsewhere, if you do find it.

Soluable slowly in 90% Alc.

Faster in Laquer thinner.

The slow drying laquer thinner gives you more work time.

Posted
I just got mine today. It smells vaguely familiar, but definitely like pyro candy. Not as good as red gum, but it is going to do good things.
Posted

I like rolling with this one, non sticky, (alcohol solvent)

Perfect for rolling microstars/core's starting from 1 mm ^_^

And water sensitive compositions!

Posted

Hi All,

I received my 10lbs of phenolic resin today.

I took a few chunks and ground them in my

coffee grinder. It sure powders up easily. It dissolves

very fast in denatured alcohol. In the morning

I am going make a small batch of dragon eggs with

this mixture. Will report back later. BJV

  • 3 weeks later...
Posted

Hi All,

I received my 10lbs of phenolic resin today.

I took a few chunks and ground them in my

coffee grinder. It sure powders up easily. It dissolves

very fast in denatured alcohol. In the morning

I am going make a small batch of dragon eggs with

this mixture. Will report back later. BJV

 

How did the dragon eggs turn out...........?

 

Just found this info below. I wish it had the % included

 

Aqueous formaldehyde is added to solid phenol. Next glacial acetic acid is added and the mixture is stirred. Concentrated hydrochloric acid is then mixed with the resulting solution. After a few minutes, the solution becomes cloudy and the red solid phenol-formaldehyde copolymer forms. The polymerization occurs by electrophilic aromatic substitution between the ortho and para positions of phenol and protonated formaldehyde. The resulting polymer is made by methylene bridges between phenol molecules

 

 

Posted

Hi Oldguy,

I have not had a whole lot of time to play with

the phenolic resin, getting ready for a shoot in Sept.

But I did try a small batch of dragon eggs bound with

phenolic resin dissolved in denatured alcohol, it killed the effect.

I am waiting for more information from the person I bought the phenolic resin from.

Will keep you posted.

BJV

Posted
By killed the "effect" do you mean they did not "crackle"?
Posted

By killed the "effect" do you mean they did not "crackle"?

Yes they don't crackle, the phenolic resin works well as a binder,

the micro stars (dragon eggs) did get very hard. Did you buy your

phenolic resin from Jim Widmann?

BJV

Posted
I bought 10# from Jim & 2# from another source.
Posted

I'm having some trouble ball-milling it. Once a bit of it gets down to air float it clumps in the mill and not a lot more grinding happens - the mill goes awful quiet. I stopped to investigate after that had been going on an hour or so and found the media glued together in quite hard lumps. It took some firm tapping to break the lumps apart but then the resin fell into dust. On sifting, about half of it was down to -100 mesh, most of the rest was down to 1/8 to 1/16 inch and there were some large chunks that didn't seem to have milled at all. From now on I'll just stop and sift it every hour or so and return the larger stuff for more milling.

 

It's very important to screen this stuff to remove the nails and bits of glass that are embedded in some of the chunks :blink: Coffee grinders beware.

Posted
Nails and bits of glass?! The stuff I got from Jim was translucent Amber and contained absolutely nothing. A couple of smacks with a hammer, and coffee milling the resultant chunks has worked well for me.
Posted

Pot Perch 73, Phenolic resin 27 makes a strong propellant........:ph34r:

 

 

As in strong enough for rocket fuel??

Steve

Posted

Nails and bits of glass?! The stuff I got from Jim was translucent Amber and contained absolutely nothing. A couple of smacks with a hammer, and coffee milling the resultant chunks has worked well for me.

 

Yup, mine too. Pure with no residue after being dissolved.

 

-dag

Posted

As in strong enough for rocket fuel??

Steve

 

I tamped a small thin walled cardboard tube with that mix. Stuck it in some soft dirt & lit it on top with visco to see what it would do.

Flame & resulting gas tipped over the tube and pushed it around the dirt lot fairly hard.

I reduced the P-resin amount after that, so it wasn't as forcefull.

Posted

Nails and bits of glass?! The stuff I got from Jim was translucent Amber and contained absolutely nothing. A couple of smacks with a hammer, and coffee milling the resultant chunks has worked well for me.

 

Mine friom Jim is also translucent amber & contained (as far as I know - so far ^_^ ) no foreign objects.

I used a mortor/pestle to reduce some to powder, no issues.

I used a coffee bean mill to reduce more to powder, no issues.

Used a SS blender & disolved a fair amount poured into a clear glass jar & sealed with a tight lid, no issues.

Posted

I must have been unlucky then, because the first two pounds of Jim's resin I milled down contained two one-inch wire nails, a small screw and a triangle of window glass 1 inch on a side. BTW, mine is half large translucent chunks and half loose gravelly pieces and I've been working with the gravel. The large transparent chunks look pure enough.

 

I won't be ball-milling any more of it, it's a total PITA. The unmilled residue after the first hour's milling was pretty much still unmilled six hours later. It's coated my media thickly and is really hard and messy to remove. Coffee grinder for me in future.

Posted

Coffee grinder is easy, sounds like you got the floor sweepings :(

 

-dag

Posted

It smells vaguely familiar

The smell is what we in the electronics biz call a "brown smell", the odor of the smoke that rises from a burned out component on a circuit board.

  • Like 1
Posted

The smell is what we in the electronics biz call a "brown smell", the odor of the smoke that rises from a burned out component on a circuit board.

 

Peret,

 

You are on the money there.

 

This type resin (or close) is used in a lot of circuit boards, etc.

 

 

Posted (edited)

From big chunks, crushed to 3/4 inch minus, then fed into a stainless steel commercial blender.

-30 to + 100 mush in minutes

 

gallery_10713_78_161173.jpg

Edited by oldguy
Posted (edited)

I have some phenolic resin from a different source, but it has a pink tinge when ground into a fine powder which is extremely light and fluffy.

 

I've used it to roll core-less crackling microstars with 3% phenolic resin bound with bio-fuel (denatured alcohol) and they seem to work rather well... http://www.pyrobin.com/files/de.wmv, although they are harder to ignite than those bound with NC lacquer.

 

http://www.pyrobin.com/files/de2.jpg

 

Well primed though... http://www.pyrobin.c...agon%20eggs.wmv.

Edited by Pyrophury
Posted
Not sure how your powder comes to be white, oldguy. Mine is orange, and bears a disturbing resemblance to ground-op potassium dichromate.
Posted
Peret - Below a certain mesh, it starts to become off-white.
Posted
The odor is just that of a small amount of free phenol. I confirmed it against the pure phenol in the lab. Very faint, but it's there.
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