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Posted
What about a Potassium permanganate and glycerin ignitor, the bigest issue see is keeping the glycerin seprate. Maby using a blister bubble type container, pull the wire bursting the bubble and blending the two components.
  • 2 weeks later...
Posted

What about a Potassium permanganate and glycerin ignitor, the bigest issue see is keeping the glycerin seprate. Maby using a blister bubble type container, pull the wire bursting the bubble and blending the two components.

 

If you want to wait a minute or more for your device to go off... the reaction takes some time before it ignites. Potassium chlorate and sulfuric acid is quicker.

 

Also if you drop the device and rupture the bubble, you're screwed.

  • 1 year later...
Posted

Try this

 

chlorate of potassium 60

antimony sulphide 26

ground glass 14

 

moisten with gum & water

 

use seratted wire in pellet

 

If the reaction is to violent slow by adding Barium Nitrate

Posted

Buy the small, 5\16 inch,tubes and plugs

In a piece of 1/2 inch plexiglass

Drill a row of 5/16 inch holes.

Poke a hole in each cup bottom with a small pointed awl.

Press a cup in each hole flush with the top then place the

Fixture on a pine board.push a pin thru each cup into the board,use the Long pins with the ball on the end.

 

Mix chlorate 88% and charcoal 12% after moistening with

NC lawyer,I make my own from scrap gunpowder and acetone,

Then pick up some mixture with a cheap small artists brush

And paint/ fill the cup about a quarter way up, dry overnight, remove pins and cups.

 

Buy light steel wire,.025/.030 dia. Cut into 4 in pieces, take a bundle of twenty and burn the plating off with a torch when cool then zig/zag the wire for 5 times with a needle nose pliers. Spray can on some clear lawyer.

 

Mix one part red phosphorus with a fourth part 220 grit abrasive,telescope mirror grinding supplies, you won't need a lot so I do small amounts and mix on plastic lids

add some nc lawyer to moisten and make a slurry then paint

The last 3 bends on the wires.

 

Slip a wire in the cup hole and using a q-tip stick push into the tube stopping 1/16 from the end and white glue the cup in. Pull the wire into the cup stopping at the first bend, now you see why only the bottom ones are coated, then twist a loop on the wire.You are done

Posted

that sounds basically very similar to the m3 military igniter

which I think uses a 80/20 chlorate/charcoal mix in a shellac varnish

 

and red p on the wire(also slurried with shellac varnish)

 

don't think you really need the additional abrasive mix with the red p

(red p and chlorate do tend to react) :P

 

the challenge is to make one reliable without the red p.

Posted

Read the previous post where I gave the phosporus free mix

Coil a wire like a collapsed spring put in the cup and add comp. Artillery ignitors have used this basic formula since before 1860, Germany used it in all the millions of grenades in both wars, they also use this in the signal rockets currently made.

I have found the abrasive isn't really necessary but it extends the mixture and increases reliability, skip if you want to.

Posted (edited)

I had read it, just surprised it works,
still if you say so it may be worth trying

guess the roughness of the pull wire may be key

Edited by dave321
Posted

I checked military pyrotechnics by Faber

scratch ignition mixtures had ground glass or

rough charcoal added to the phosphorus.

the artillery ignitors specified to not powder the

chlorate just use granular.

  • 1 month later...
Posted

Great Idea! Thanks

Posted

Not to just rise up the ghost again but I would like to know.

Dresden, does the two mixtures work? And if so have you tried them, if so what was the success rate of your usage of them..........Thank you Pat

  • 11 months later...
Posted

Most of us can't get red phosphorous so won't be able to make it. But that's great you found something that works for you.

 

That mixture is quite sensitive as you know and can be dangerous in larger quantities. Maybe put a warning that it is very sensitive to friction and impact and to only work in very small quantities. But I imagine most people won't be able to get the chemicals and won't be able to make it.

Posted

that is not the best arrangement

 

it is better to separate the red p from the composition by coating it onto a

zig zag wire pull

 

also chlorate charcoal would be less violent

 

its difficult to fail to make a pull wire ignite if you have red p

 

the trick is getting reliability without any red p

  • 1 month later...
  • 10 months later...
Posted

hi,

see attached

 

dave

How do you download the PDF files? Please help
Posted
It's not a pdf, it's a link to eBay.
Posted

I believe he is referring to Dave's diagram on page 1. But I am concerned that a new members first post/question is how to download a .pdf file concerning ring pull ignitors. Dan, this question can be easily found on Google. It may also be that you had no posts, and were therefore not allowed to download the file. Be sure to read the Forum rules etc. on the home page before asking questions that make us say, hmmm. Stay safe and welcome to the forum.

  • 1 year later...
Posted
Im a new member to this sight I find the subjects fantastic but still cant get the hand to how the download feature works. It tells me I am not basicly allowed to download, but Ive joined the group, any help would be great thank you.
Posted

Im a new member to this sight I find the subjects fantastic but still cant get the hand to how the download feature works. It tells me I am not basicly allowed to download, but Ive joined the group, any help would be great thank you.

You just did it, i believe. You need your first post, if memory doesn't fail me.

Posted

Yep, that will do it.

Posted (edited)

Soo not that I have any interest in this really, but won’t a couple “Ohio Blue Tip” strike anywhere match heads ground up and maybe some string with sand glued to it work?

Edited by Richtee
  • 4 years later...
Posted
a hey everyone hope all are doing good, looking for abit of advice here please



so recently got into making my own smoke bombs/grenades for fun and i am stuck on one part


what i need advice around is the ring pull ignition system, so i took apart a commercial smoke grenade and inside you can see this brass cup

if you look you can see some (black powder) inside - which when the ring is pulled and the metal spring unwinds against – the black powder it causes a small flash igniting the smoke bomb


so my question is does anyone know what this black sparkly powder is?


is it just pure BP? or match powder? or something else?


i can see - on previous page someone - has already given a formula has anyone tested?


any help welcome


Cheers

Posted

I have seen the made with "Ferrocerium," Not sure if that's what is in yours though.

Posted (edited)

This has fascinated me for a bit. So, I just drilled a small hole thru an empty .22 case. Mixed ( no, I did not measure. but screwdriver tip amounts) of K chlorate, Antimony Tri (needle) and sulfur. Wrapper 22 Ga sandpapered copper wire around a .125 inch rod. placed the wire pull thru the .22 case and added the mix along with a few flecks of doublebased powder. Sat the coil down into the mix and added 2 drops of acetone and let it sit a couple hours.

 

It works. Sorry I do not have exact measures. It has little application for me, but I might just nail it down for grins.

 

On edit: It was a little “hot”. It was a bang not a “woosh” So..that has to be addressed too.

Edited by Richtee
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