xBangergoosEx Posted July 13, 2011 Posted July 13, 2011 (edited) When i make cylinder shells, 1" of Chinese Time Fuse (3sec burn time) isnt long enough. Meaning after pasting and everything, there isnt enough fuse to crossmatch and whatnot. Does anyone know how to fix this problem? Edited July 13, 2011 by xBangergoosEx
Xtreme Pyro Posted July 13, 2011 Posted July 13, 2011 When i make cylinder shells, 1" of Chinese Time Fuse (3sec burn time) isnt long enough. Meaning after pasting and everything, there isnt enough fuse to crossmatch and whatnot. Does anyone know how to fix this problem? I usually cut my time fuse for 3" shells at 1.5", and mark it at the 1" line so I have half an inch to split and tie.
Mumbles Posted July 14, 2011 Posted July 14, 2011 You definitely should. On the inside of the shell where it is crossmatched/primed/whatever, it should be pulled flush against the inside end disk. That should leave around 1" to 1.5" (depending on how you cross match) sticking out. Even two thicker disks, spiking, and pasting really shouldn't take anymore than 1/2"
xBangergoosEx Posted July 14, 2011 Author Posted July 14, 2011 Oh i see. Well im always afraid that the little burst of fire that comes from the fuse on the inside of the shell isnt going to be enough to light the break charge, but i know im just being illogical.
Mumbles Posted July 14, 2011 Posted July 14, 2011 It very well might not, which is why you need to prime the interior in some way. Cross match, blob of prime, cut at an angle, etc You may also want to tie quickmatch over the end of the fuse + any priming you do, and pipe the fire farther into the burst. This greatly improved my breaks.
dan999ification Posted July 14, 2011 Posted July 14, 2011 (edited) When i make cylinder shells, 1" of Chinese Time Fuse (3sec burn time) isnt long enough. Meaning after pasting and everything, there isnt enough fuse to crossmatch and whatnot. Does anyone know how to fix this problem? i would use a passfire tube filled with bm and cut the timefuse at an angle cut to the length you need like mumbles said pipe the fire into the centre of the shell.this helps me when im making 1 sec inserts and small shells the short lengths become fiddly without it.the end of the tube sits on the inner disc and most of the time fuse is on the outside of the shell. alternatively revisit the crossmatch method i can get away with 5mm or less if you use the correct tool mines a very worn down knife more like a needle punch and twist away you go splitting and using extra length is a waste of fuse.dan. Edited July 14, 2011 by dan999ification
dagabu Posted July 14, 2011 Posted July 14, 2011 A bucket with black match catches fire nicely and makes the fire come more to the center. I punch all my time fuse and dont have any problem getting fire to the center of the shell. Ireally dont trust primed time fuse in any way. -dag
Bonny Posted July 15, 2011 Posted July 15, 2011 I don't trust primed timefuse either (for ignition anyway). I've never primed or crossmatched the inside of a shell. I split and tie my fuse on the external side of the shell. On the inside, I simply cut at a steep angle for small shells (2" and 3") and for larger shells I do the same and (as suggested by dan999ification and Dagabu) make a bucket to the shell centre filled with strands of blackmatch.
Algenco Posted July 15, 2011 Posted July 15, 2011 I prime the outside, blackmatch/bucket on the inside. Split and spread the end of the TF, dip in 5-10% NC laquer, then in meal D, never fails
Bonny Posted July 16, 2011 Posted July 16, 2011 I prime the outside, blackmatch/bucket on the inside. Split and spread the end of the TF, dip in 5-10% NC laquer, then in meal D, never fails I agree that works well. I've always used NC/BP slurry then the dip into some BP (after the split, x-match, and tie) ...just makes sure there's lots of ignition. The NC works great as a glue to hold the BM in place even w/o tying.
Recommended Posts