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Posted (edited)

gallery_10713_78_20567.jpg

 

gallery_10713_78_251675.jpg

 

gallery_10713_78_246866.jpg

 

 

gallery_10713_78_133183.jpg

Edited by oldguy
Posted

Sexy!

 

Nice job OG!

 

-dag

Posted
That is such a work of art, it seems a pity to use it and get it all scuffed up.
Posted (edited)

That is such a work of art, it seems a pity to use it and get it all scuffed up.

 

 

I painted that one with Krylon spray paint, just for the hell of it.

I will not do that again, because just as you say rolling loaded it will get scuffed up.

Edited by oldguy
Posted
What size and type of milling media will you be using with this jar?
Posted
I already bought 25 lbs (new) from him in the 1/2" size last week. Was curious if you were going to use a 3/4' or 1' size for this size jar.
Posted

I already bought 25 lbs (new) from him in the 1/2" size last week. Was curious if you were going to use a 3/4' or 1' size for this size jar.

 

I use either 1/2 or 5/8ths Zirc M media in all my jars for everything.

Thats from 3 to 50 lb content media + chems combined.

Posted
Thanks for the clarification. That's very helpful.
Posted
Is it not problematic with the lip getting chems out of the jar?
Posted

Is it not problematic with the lip getting chems out of the jar?

 

I dont think that he has a lip inside the jar, just the outside.

 

-dag

Posted (edited)

The neck ring the cap fits on is flush mounted inside the jar.

 

You take a router with a 1/4 round bit & use it to turn the inside edge 1/4 round.

(before you solvent weld it in place)

That way both chems & media pour right out, without any hang-ups.

 

The outer surface face of the neck ring in flat.

Reason being, you put a round flat pvc plate inside the rubber cap.

 

With the jar neck opening facing up.

You place the rubber cap over the neck ring (with the round flat plate inside the rubber cap), press down on the cap for a tight fit against the flat face of the protruding neck ring..

Tighten the clamp while pressing down on the cap.

 

If that makes sense to you.

Works for me, no leaks & no media/chems rubbing against the rubber cap.

 

I will take pictures the next time I build another 1, to show you what I mean.

Edited by oldguy
Posted

That is true guiness! If I spelled that right. Since it willbe awhile before I can get back to rockets I think I will turn my attention to upgrades and this will definitely be one!

 

Been on and off watching your progress, wish I had your patience.

Posted

I got my blackened paws on one of Oldguys jar's just like the one pictured and it works great. My previous jar was the type with a reducer and rubber cap. I was not pleased with how chems caked in the neck. Recessed ends make carrying it full of media a breeze. Oldguys design is the way to go.

Gary

Posted
what size motor are you using to turn this? i am new to this and am doing a bunch of reading and see where people are using anywhere from 1/4 to 1 1/1/4 hp motors to spin these and am wondering what everyones take is on what is enough or what is too much. do you think a fan motor from an ac unit will work to turn a mill of this size?
Posted

Motor size depends on a bunch of variables.

 

How well built the mill is, what kind of bearings & shafts, pulleys and belts.

 

Link below is a unit that will turn 100# driven by a 1/3rd hp motor.

 

http://cgi.ebay.com/100-rock-tumbler-MADE-USA-w-barrel-2-yr-warranty-/110655098407?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item19c38ece27

 

I built a bigger model 100# unit, with a ¾ hp TEFC motor.

 

gallery_10713_78_170312.jpg

 

It turns like a new Rolls Royce drives.

 

If a mill is well designed a ¼ hp would drive an 8 inch jar with ease.

 

The bigger the jar, the more weight involved.

 

Bigger motors are better = less wear & heat.

 

Posted

I use a 1/8 hp on mine cause its what I had at build time. I keep expecting it to burn up but it hasn't yet. I do have a 1/3 hp ready to go when my 1/8th goes out. I also have a 1/2 hp dc motor but not sure about wiring to the control panel.

 

thatguy, I don't think you can have too much hp so long as the rpm's are right. The problem with an ac fan motor is that its probably 220v. I hear that motors can be got from old washing machines, 110v, and cheap.

 

 

Posted

Motor size depends on a bunch of variables.

How well built the mill is, what kind of bearings & shafts, pulleys and belts.

Link below is a unit that will turn 100# driven by a 1/3rd hp motor.

http://cgi.ebay.com/100-rock-tumbler-MADE-USA-w-barrel-2-yr-warranty-/110655098407?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item19c38ece27

I built a bigger model 100# unit, with a ¾ hp TEFC motor.

If a mill is well designed a ¼ hp would drive an 8 inch jar with ease.

The bigger the jar, the more weight involved.

Bigger motors are better = less wear & heat.

 

Hi OG,

 

Two questions: 1) does the PVC barrel make a lot of noise when it runs? I made one years ago and it made so much racket the neighbors thought I was machine washing marbles near a megaphone.

2) is rubber lining the barrel an option? I thought about using contact cement to seal a layer of rubber sheet inside my PVC barrel to dampen the noise. Any thoughts?

 

WSM B)

Posted

With a proper load of media & chem’s it’s fairly quite.

By “proper” I mean ½ filled with media, then I load in the chem’s, give the jar a shake so the chem’s sift down into the media & continue loading chem’s & shaking until its all level.

Then run it.

 

But I run Zirc M ceramic media. So that may make a difference. Zirc M media will let you know when the load is done.

It rattles to begin with, then gets quieter & quieter until there is almost no sound.

Then, slowly, but progressively it starts to rattle more & more.

When it does that, the load is starting to cake.

Zirc M media will complete a big load of FAST BP in 90 or 100 minutes.

I just set the timer for 100 minutes & forget about it.

 

If the pvc jars were so noisy, it bothered my. I was going to line a couple jars with a sound deadening material called accustiblock. But, the mill sound doesn’t, so I didn’t.

 

gallery_10713_78_138316.jpg

 

3mm thick accustiblock is equal to 1ft of solid concrete for sound dampening purposes.

 

http://info.acoustiblok.com/acoustiblok-products/

 

 

Posted (edited)

With a proper load of media & chem's it's fairly quite.

By "proper" I mean ½ filled with media, then I load in the chem's, give the jar a shake so the chem's sift down into the media & continue loading chem's & shaking until its all level.

Then run it.

But I run Zirc M ceramic media. So that may make a difference. Zirc M media will let you know when the load is done.

It rattles to begin with, then gets quieter & quieter until there is almost no sound.

Then, slowly, but progressively it starts to rattle more & more.

When it does that, the load is starting to cake.

Zirc M media will complete a big load of FAST BP in 90 or 100 minutes.

I just set the timer for 100 minutes & forget about it.

If the pvc jars were so noisy, it bothered my. I was going to line a couple jars with a sound deadening material called accustiblock. But, the mill sound doesn't, so I didn't.

3mm thick accustiblock is equal to 1ft of solid concrete for sound dampening purposes.

http://info.acoustib...iblok-products/

 

Hi OG,

 

Thanks for the response and information. What sort of material is the acoustiblok? Would you apply it to the inside or outside of the barrel (or not at all, and build a sound-dampening box of it to fit over the ball-mill)? I may have to use one of these approaches if I mill raw materials in town using a PVC barrel. I appreciate any guidance or suggestions you can offer.

 

Oh, and I forgot to ask, where can it be gotten?

 

WSM B)

Edited by WSM
Posted
Sent you a PM......:)
Posted (edited)

Sent you a PM......:)

 

Thanks OG. I got it and sent a couple back.

 

WSM B)

 

By the way, that's some nice work you've done on those barrels. I can see I need to cut and glue some PVC soon, mind if I copy your pattern?

Edited by WSM
Posted

WSM, Oldguy put a link in his post so you could find the acoustiblok, take another look. I have a jar from Oldguy. I use lead media and it is LOUD. I built a cover (plywood box) which I glued 1/2" foam padding (my workplace provided it) to the inside of. I can't hear it 10' away in the kitchen. If I open the door to the garage it is very tolerable. Without that cover, it is unaccetable.

Gary

 

p.s. Thanks again Oldguy for the jar.

Posted

WSM, Oldguy put a link in his post so you could find the acoustiblok, take another look. I have a jar from Oldguy. I use lead media and it is LOUD. I built a cover (plywood box) which I glued 1/2" foam padding (my workplace provided it) to the inside of. I can't hear it 10' away in the kitchen. If I open the door to the garage it is very tolerable. Without that cover, it is unaccetable.

Gary

 

p.s. Thanks again Oldguy for the jar.

 

Thanks garyrapp55.

 

I wasn't sure which way OG was going to use it, so I asked. I do admire the nice work OG did on the barrels. I can see I need to cut and glue some PVC here so I can mill more than a few cups of nitrate for my next BP rockets. I just don't want my neighbors to pitch a fit about all the racket, so thanks for the sound dampening tip.

 

WSM B)

  • 4 weeks later...
Posted (edited)
Oldguy - Would you mind detailing how to cut and fit the pieces of PVC sheet on the ID of the mill jar? I imagine you used a circle cutting jig on the router, but how were you able to match the inner profile of the pipe so well? Edited by FrankRizzo
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