Mumbles Posted June 21, 2011 Posted June 21, 2011 You do not need fuming nitric acid to make nitrocellulose. This would be exceptionally more suitable. http://www.chemical-supermarket.com/Nitric-Acid-69-5-Concentration-Semiconductor-Grade-500ml-p160.html
usapyro Posted June 21, 2011 Posted June 21, 2011 NightHawkinLight's comment inspired me to make HNO3 that is quality... No distillation apparatus. Just one pyrex flask and a receiving jar frozen in a black of ice... It works for the good stuff after you convert it to WFNA. So simple... Wow! Btw, water baths don't work for #*$#*$... Use cooking oil or something...
oldguy Posted June 21, 2011 Author Posted June 21, 2011 500 ml = 0.528344105 US quartsSo, $225 + shipping for 1 pint
dagabu Posted June 21, 2011 Posted June 21, 2011 (edited) 500 ml = 0.528344105 US quartsSo, $225 + shipping for 1 pint Check the math again OG, 500 ml = 16.90 oz or 1 pint and almost a whole oz to spare -dag Edited June 21, 2011 by dagabu
Ralph Posted June 21, 2011 Posted June 21, 2011 you silly Americans claiming to be lazzy yet still using the imperial system where nothing makes sense
WSM Posted June 21, 2011 Posted June 21, 2011 you silly Americans claiming to be lazzy yet still using the imperial system where nothing makes sense Lazy? Hey, it takes math skills to do those crazy conversions ! Anybody can do SI . WSM
oldguy Posted June 21, 2011 Author Posted June 21, 2011 NightHawkinLight's comment inspired me to make HNO3 that is quality... No distillation apparatus. Just one pyrex flask and a receiving jar frozen in a black of ice... It works for the good stuff after you convert it to WFNA. So simple... Wow! Btw, water baths don't work for #*$#*$... Use cooking oil or something... WFNA = ? oldguy displaying his ignorance here
oldguy Posted June 21, 2011 Author Posted June 21, 2011 Check the math again OG, 500 ml = 16.90 oz or 1 pint and almost a whole oz to spare -dag LOL..........pint is close enough.I guess I should have said pint + almost an ounce.No matter at that price, I'm not buying it.
Ralph Posted June 21, 2011 Posted June 21, 2011 (edited) WFNA = ? oldguy displaying his ignorance here WhiteFumingNitricAcid conc nitric acid with less than 2% water and Im not sure about the actual tolerances but its with out enough nitrogen oxides dissolved in it to discolour it gives off white acid fumes WSM I said "claim to be lazzy" as in your not doing a good job of it Edited June 23, 2011 by Ralph
dagabu Posted June 21, 2011 Posted June 21, 2011 you silly Americans claiming to be lazzy yet still using the imperial system where nothing makes sense I know, I know! I just hate fractions, 9/64"? WTH? -dag
Ralph Posted June 21, 2011 Posted June 21, 2011 (edited) I know, I know! I just hate fractions, 9/64"? WTH? -dag as soon as you guys start talking things like 5/8" Im like errrm lets call that a half 64ths thats just crazzy Edited June 21, 2011 by Ralph
Mumbles Posted June 21, 2011 Posted June 21, 2011 You guys are totally missing two important things. Firstly, that first link is is for 250mL, so $225 + shipping for approximately half a pint, 1 cup. Secondly, this post by me. Twice as much by volume, azeotropic, and going on 1/10 the price. You do not need fuming nitric acid to make nitrocellulose. This would be exceptionally more suitable. http://www.chemical-...500ml-p160.html So Ralph, what does it say about Australians that you're too lazy to spell lazy right? you silly Americans claiming to be lazzy yet still using the imperial system where nothing makes sense
r1dermon Posted June 21, 2011 Posted June 21, 2011 i'd like to play with some WFNA. i could think of so many uses for super high conc nitric acid...shame it's so much $. your link would work fine for nitrocellulose synthesis. or...other...synthesis...
usapyro Posted June 22, 2011 Posted June 22, 2011 (edited) WFNA = ? oldguy displaying his ignorance here RFNA = Red Fuming Nitric Acid (90%+) (Nitrogen Oxide Impurities)WFNA = White Fuming Nitric Acid (90%+) (No Impurities) To convert RFNA to near WFNA... Bubble pure oxygen through RFNA while holding the RFNA at 60C. You should be able to clear it up about 99% of the way or so... For the rest just use a "pinch" of urea and stir while it's still warm... Urea in very small amounts won't lower your acids concentration very much... So save that fix for last. You only need WFNA for a couple very high power exotics. RFNA will do for most things. Edited June 22, 2011 by usapyro
r1dermon Posted June 23, 2011 Posted June 23, 2011 Red fuming is extremely useful...and ill leave it at that.
jimbo Posted June 23, 2011 Posted June 23, 2011 hey mumbles we ain't lazy spellers we even put an extra u in colour,a ph in sulphur,though I get lazy sometimes and spell it sulfur.
Mumbles Posted June 23, 2011 Posted June 23, 2011 There isn't anything lazy about spelling it sulfur, it's the correct way. It's the accepted spelling by the International Union of Pure and Applied Chemistry (IUPAC) since 1990. It's also accepted by the Royal Society of Chemistry, so you guys have no wiggle room with your claims of British English.
Ralph Posted June 23, 2011 Posted June 23, 2011 haha if Aussies thought I was in any way repressing them there would be a linch mob out the front of my house in seconds
usapyro Posted June 23, 2011 Posted June 23, 2011 Red fuming is extremely useful...and ill leave it at that. It results in higher yields for some nitrations, correct?
Ralph Posted June 23, 2011 Posted June 23, 2011 RFNA = Red Fuming Nitric Acid (90%+) (Nitrogen Oxide Impurities)WFNA = White Fuming Nitric Acid (90%+) (No Impurities) To convert RFNA to near WFNA... Bubble pure oxygen through RFNA while holding the RFNA at 60C. You should be able to clear it up about 99% of the way or so... For the rest just use a "pinch" of urea and stir while it's still warm... Urea in very small amounts won't lower your acids concentration very much... So save that fix for last. You only need WFNA for a couple very high power exotics. RFNA will do for most things. Google is your friend these chemicals are not, learn to read or google before you go blowing your self up with these things. White fuming nitric is said to contain less than 2% water (like I said earlier) not sure why by at uni the professors all say less than 5% either way your significantly off wkith your values reading what I wrote previously would have told you that. plenty of people have been hospitalised from distilling nitric acid and industrially some have died its not a toy and the crappy methods you propose are far from safe and the methods of synthesis of explosives youve described in chat scare me, Im suprised your NG synths havent gone high order on you
Gunzway Posted June 23, 2011 Posted June 23, 2011 Premise 1: Ralph is an AustralianPremise 2: Ralph is too lazy to spell correctlyConclusion: All Australians are too lazy to spell correctly Mumbles, your logic is impervious. I suggest you all do some serious reading before you actually get the genius idea to go through with this. It’s a very dangerous procedure, and you best have some experience under your belt. I strongly suggest you think about your heat source carefully and that you invest in some protective barrier between you and the apparatus. Almost all experience chemistry teachers could you give a story about a distillation going horribly wrong. If you’ve used the glassware before (especially for organics), be damn weary of that. It’s up to you to do your research.
r1dermon Posted June 23, 2011 Posted June 23, 2011 To reiterate, nitric acid is a very powerful and corrosive oxidiser. N2O4 is extremely toxic. 3 astronauts were nearly killed by a dinitrogen tetroxide leak in their spacecraft. Doing Any nitro synthesis or reactions will result in an extremely exothermic result with volumes of toxic gaseous byproducts. The resulting products of such reactions can contain enough energy that when initiated, can cause mass scale damage or energy release. When you are not properly setup, and you encounter a runaway synthesis, very and things can happen to you. This is not something to toy with if you've never done any work with nitro acid under the supervision of a trained chemist following meticulous procedures. IMO, this topic should be in the HE section. My stance is that its much safer to mix flash all day than to attempt a nitro reduction untrained outside of a lab atmosphere. JMHO.
oldguy Posted June 23, 2011 Author Posted June 23, 2011 Frankly, I wish I had not started this thread. I agree, it should have been posted in HE. I think it should be deleted or moved to HE. Simply because a novice tinkering with these reactions could cause himself severe injury or death.
pyrojig Posted June 24, 2011 Posted June 24, 2011 Frankly, I wish I had not started this thread. I agree, it should have been posted in HE. I think it should be deleted or moved to HE. Simply because a novice tinkering with these reactions could cause himself severe injury or death. Good point that novices can get really hurt by trying to synth their own chems.Not sure if youll protect people from them selves by suppressing information . It is better to inform them of the dangers and explain why, rather than them going to a Y-tube video for advise and tutorials. Thats when they end up dead or in the hospital. Nitric Acid is a great tool in the pyro field as well as the explosives field. In pyro it can create hard to obtain nitrates that make our hobby so exciting. Making one aware or the dangers and of runnaways is very important though. One should have some chemistry background before attempting to synth chems, and handle dangerous acids.
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