loris94 Posted May 19, 2011 Posted May 19, 2011 (edited) hi i want ot coat my rice hulls with flash powder (70/30 perc. mgal) any advice on quantity,particular method for flash coating ecc.. thank you! Edited May 19, 2011 by loris94
Mumbles Posted May 19, 2011 Posted May 19, 2011 Do you mean you want to coat rice hulls that are already coated with BP, or use flash powder as the only composition? I don't know how much advice you'll get for the latter as it's typically not done.
loris94 Posted May 19, 2011 Author Posted May 19, 2011 mmm i understeand but since i'm actually without ball miller (i think for 3 more week) and i can't get a decent burning bp what i want to do is use flash as only comp
fredhappy Posted May 19, 2011 Posted May 19, 2011 (edited) mmm i understeand but since i'm actually without ball miller (i think for 3 more week) and i can't get a decent burning bp what i want to do is use flash as only comp Why don't you make KP?. You've got the KCLO4 already, you only need S and C. KP works great for breaking shells, and can be made by only screening the ingredients. No ballmill needed, no need for fast mealpowder. Also there is no need to boost shells, since the stuff is powerfull enough by itself.As a bonus, you can omit the use of 70/30, and simplify building stuff. The quality of the used C is also much less important as it is with meal. Now for lift, you do need a ballmill..... I do have some questions, since you are being extremely vague. 1: why do you want to make 70/30 coated ricehulls?2: if flash is your only composition, what is the purpose of coating it on ricehulls.3:for what kind of device do you want to use your meal? For shells , or something else? Please be clear when posting questions concerning flash, especially when you've just registered here very recently. Edited May 19, 2011 by fredhappy
FREAKYDUTCHMEN Posted May 19, 2011 Posted May 19, 2011 I did a section on a 2" round shell once, and actually there was flash coated ricehulls in it. I have no idea what kind of flash it was, but some cases it's used.
loris94 Posted May 19, 2011 Author Posted May 19, 2011 (edited) i will answers 3 in 1 i want to coat hulls with flash to break shells and i want my flash coated on them for volum. EDIT:i made a mistake my flash is a 50/50 MgAl/KClO4 i actually use it because i think is the best in terms safety,report sound,brightness and also because some of my star are not so easy to ignite (i'm not so pratic with primes) i think flash give a pretty hot temperature and good condition to make star ignite. Edited May 19, 2011 by loris94
Mumbles Posted May 19, 2011 Posted May 19, 2011 Using strictly flash as a burst will likely only harm your star ignition. Yes, it burns hot, but it also burns fast. This means less flame time to light the stars. As well, they'll be coming out faster than with a typical BP or KP burst, so they'll be more likely to be blown out. I'd hate to think of the retina spotting that'd come from a purely flash broken shell.
FREAKYDUTCHMEN Posted May 19, 2011 Posted May 19, 2011 Using strictly flash as a burst will likely only harm your star ignition. Yes, it burns hot, but it also burns fast. This means less flame time to light the stars. Depends on the type of flash you're using. I would give it a go with mgal and perchlorate. But still though your priming always has to be good.
fredhappy Posted May 19, 2011 Posted May 19, 2011 i will answers 3 in 1 i want to coat hulls with flash to break shells and i want my flash coated on them for volum. EDIT:i made a mistake my flash is a 50/50 MgAl/KClO4 i actually use it because i think is the best in terms safety,report sound,brightness and also because some of my star are not so easy to ignite (i'm not so pratic with primes) i think flash give a pretty hot temperature and good condition to make star ignite. My advice would be to read up on the use of KP for breaking shells.Especially since you mention your problems with priming, I'd really go for KP. You only need sulphur and airfloat charcoal.Much easier then the hassle of using flash for breaks. I hope this helps, please be safe.....
Mumbles Posted May 19, 2011 Posted May 19, 2011 Depends on the type of flash you're using. I would give it a go with mgal and perchlorate. But still though your priming always has to be good. Yeah, I suppose MgAl flash is a bit slower and lower powered than 70/30 with a blackhead Al. It's worth a shot, I just don't have much confidence in it if there are already ignition issues.
MadMax Posted May 20, 2011 Posted May 20, 2011 In my experience I've always found MgAl FP to be faster, more sensitive and powerful then with just Al. Yeah, I suppose MgAl flash is a bit slower and lower powered than 70/30 with a blackhead Al. It's worth a shot, I just don't have much confidence in it if there are already ignition issues.
Mumbles Posted May 28, 2011 Posted May 28, 2011 In my experience it always has a lower pitched sound, which is very indicative of slower speed. Sensitivity is an entirely different matter, and power is quite subjective. In the stoichiometric reactions, aluminum based flash powders give off more energy. I was talking about KClO4/Metal mixes. If you're using something else, it'd be different.
Vrizla Posted May 28, 2011 Posted May 28, 2011 (edited) mmm i understeand but since i'm actually without ball miller (i think for 3 more week) and i can't get a decent burning bp what i want to do is use flash as only comp Unfortunately I am still without a Ball Mill, however I have made pretty darn good lift without one. I was going to buy one last year, but it was back ordered for way too long and it was quicker to just buy GOEX. The powder I made sent my shells far in to the sky, GOEX was better, but it can be done using method shown in Turbo Pyro. If you plan on having a ball mill for more then a year buy a good one. Make sure you can order extra drums and belts, the cheap ones you see everywhere are not worth the box they they ship them in, unless the product has changed but I doubt it. My personal advice on coffee grinders buy a couple of them, they are dirt cheap you really can't clean all sulfur and nitrate out of it. Don't forget this is an appliance with vents and an electric motor so when you operate it do so out of your work shop and away from anything flammable. When you eventually buy or build a decent ball mill you will still have use for your coffee grinders. I am nowhere near an expert on black powder or a master shell maker but I'm decent at it, and the grinder method only involved a Walmart run to buy my shells a one way ticket to the heavens. In CT the Walmart's are pathetic compared to other states. Most of the super stores may even sell GOEX, but don't quote me on that. Edited May 28, 2011 by Vrizla 1
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