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Posted
Can watered down elmers or wood glue be used for pasting canister shells? I can see it wouldn't be cost effective in a production environment.. although for small hobby use would this be a satisfactory substitute?
Posted

Can watered down elmers or wood glue be used for pasting canister shells? I can see it wouldn't be cost effective in a production environment.. although for small hobby use would this be a satisfactory substitute?

 

Certainly, elmers (or wood glue) can be diluted with a bit of water to "thin" it out a bit. Though I haven't tried it on can shells, I've only used it as paste for ball shells, so Ill let someone else chime in here. ;)

Posted
sure, works great, I've used it numerous times but prefer wheat paste
Posted

Why would you?

 

Wheat flour is cheaper, paste is easy to make and easy to work with.

Posted

my first few cans were pasted with pva and water solution works great bit sticky when its drying out[ wet your hands] but it dries hard and fast. i also use wallpaper paste but it doesn't shrink so well drying so i only top fuse these.never got round to making wheat paste because i heard it has a short shelf life and ive never needed a large enough batch to make it worthwile.

dan

Posted
I use both wheat paste (PlayBox from Dick BlicK) and PVA for making canister shells. I use PVA to make a rigid inner shell and then paste in the outer wrap with wheat paste. I make only 1 liter of wheat paste at a time and add a teaspoon of Sodium Benzoate to the mix for preservation. It is shelf stable even in the summer for a week and in the cooler weather, it is good for a month.
Posted

If your wheat pasted saturated paper doesn't shrink all that much upon drying, you may want to check to make sure the wall paper paste is actually wheat paste. There are other things they use currently, which may not work as well.

 

Wheat paste can be kept in the refrigerator over a week or so if you want to try it out. With a preservative like benzoates or salicylates, it should last quite a while if kept cool. Flour and water and benzoates isn't going to contaminate your food. It's nice to warm it up a bit before using though. It makes it more pleasant on your hands, as well as thinning it back out. When cooled it becomes much stiffer.

Posted
And it feels gross when cool too. That is my biggest complaint, I cant stand the feel of paste, glue is fine but paste? :wacko:
Posted
I'm going to hunt around for Golden Harvest at a few hardware stores. I've been trying Titebond wood glue diluted with water (maybe too much water) and it really doesn't become that sticky. I assume the procedure is waiting until the glue or paste sets up before applying it?
Posted

I'm going to hunt around for Golden Harvest at a few hardware stores. I've been trying Titebond wood glue diluted with water (maybe too much water) and it really doesn't become that sticky. I assume the procedure is waiting until the glue or paste sets up before applying it?

 

 

I've heard the quality of Golden Harvest isn't that great

 

I use Playbox brand

 

http://www.dickblick.com/products/playbox-wheat-paste/

Posted

Come the fall, I get free shipping to work plus a 20% off coupon. The Playbox is pretty cheap when you can get 6 pounds of it for $11.00 ;)

 

-dag

Posted

 

Wheat paste can be kept in the refrigerator over a week or so if you want to try it out. With a preservative like benzoates or salicylates, it should last quite a while if kept cool. Flour and water and benzoates isn't going to contaminate your food. It's nice to warm it up a bit before using though. It makes it more pleasant on your hands, as well as thinning it back out. When cooled it becomes much stiffer.

 

I've had wheat paste (homemade) with a pinch of benzoate in the fridge for 3 weeks with no spoilage.

 

And yeah, it is much nicer on the hands when warmed up. I think it also soaks into the paper better that way.

Posted
Guys, if a canister shell is inadaquetly pasted would this result in an almost guaranteed flowerpot? I built a shell properly but didn't exactly soak the outer wraps in paste but just glued them with diluted white glue. The ends were pleated with heavy glue and thick cardboard discs were used.
Posted

Thats hard to say, when the pleats were folded down, were there any gaps? Even a pin hole gap will allow fire into the shell. Pasting helps fill the tiny gaps.

 

-dag

Posted
I don't think so, and there were multiple layers of tabs glued individually with end discs in between. I also distributed a thick even layer of glue to the lift end of the shell to really seal things up, so no gases will pass through the bottom.
Posted (edited)

I don't think so, and there were multiple layers of tabs glued individually with end discs in between. I also distributed a thick even layer of glue to the lift end of the shell to really seal things up, so no gases will pass through the bottom.

only you would know, you could give it another layer [ if it will fit in the mortar]to be sure and get a harder break or prepare yourself for a mine.

i should have said when i paste with pva i make it thick probably 75% or more glue, the water is only really to help it flow into the paper and to make it less sticky to work with but it does get sticky quickly, i also paste the paper and wait a minute or two to let it soak in then re-paste and squeegee the excess off before rolling the shell,the paper should be noticeably heavier and malleable, if your worried re seal it and top fuse him.

dan

Edited by dan999ification
Posted

Do you fold the pleats or do you cut tabs and then fold the pleats? For rockets, a cut pleat is fine but for shells fired from mortars, you need to sticks with folded pleats.

 

-dag

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