dagabu Posted April 21, 2011 Posted April 21, 2011 @dagabu: I like rolling but really HATE screening my comps. it has to be done, but o boy, is it a messy dusty job. I screen in a closed system, nesting bucket screens with a lid on the top one. No dust at all.
fredhappy Posted April 21, 2011 Posted April 21, 2011 I screen in a closed system, nesting bucket screens with a lid on the top one. No dust at all. I just must build myself something like that, that sounds like a good idea to keep the mess down to almost zero.I mixed a tub of KP yesterday....yuck.... @pyrogeorge: hope this helps, I'm not that experienced, but have rolled quite a few batches . I ve experienced the raspberries too and noticed they are fixable.
pyrogeorge Posted April 21, 2011 Author Posted April 21, 2011 Of course your answers will help me in next batches! Can somebody tell me a book which referred on toro method?i would like to read about this method.
dagabu Posted April 21, 2011 Posted April 21, 2011 I just must build myself something like that, that sounds like a good idea to keep the mess down to almost zero.I mixed a tub of KP yesterday....yuck.... @pyrogeorge: hope this helps, I'm not that experienced, but have rolled quite a few batches . I ve experienced the raspberries too and noticed they are fixable. Want a picture? They all nest together.
fredhappy Posted April 21, 2011 Posted April 21, 2011 Want a picture? They all nest together. Yeah, I'd be interested how you handle screen mixing, there's always something to be learned from others I think...
pyrogeorge Posted May 23, 2011 Author Posted May 23, 2011 i rolled 6mm emerald green cores and i will roll c8 on it.But i don't know the final diameter of stars for 3-4inch shells..Any ideas?Or a table will be usefull..Thanks
fredhappy Posted May 24, 2011 Posted May 24, 2011 i rolled 6mm emerald green cores and i will roll c8 on it.But i don't know the final diameter of stars for 3-4inch shells..Any ideas?Or a table will be usefull..Thanks 3 inch would ideally use 8 mm stars. I ve found that with 6 mm stars I get these great dense break patterns on 3 inchers, but they don't burn very long. For 4 inch , I will use 8 mm stars for a very dense break, and 10 mm stars for normal shape. I would not roll much more on the green emerald cores, since you need an aditional priming layer because you go from a low temperature composition (c8, streamer whatever) to a high temperature compostion ( emerald green). Greens can be quite notorious to light, so you need a minimum (hot) prime layer of 1 mm in my opinion.
pyrogeorge Posted May 24, 2011 Author Posted May 24, 2011 (edited) so it need only 2-4mm C8?i think is not enough and will burn directly without tail.. Edited May 24, 2011 by pyrogeorge
fredhappy Posted May 24, 2011 Posted May 24, 2011 so it need only 2-4mm C8?i think is not enough and will burn directly without tail.. No, the choice of these emerald green starcores in combination with their already rolled up thickness will not allow you to add another layer of a streamer compo . I have tried 4 mm blue cores to 4 mm red for 4 inch shells....the blue core burnt so quickly that it was almost non visible. Chrysanthum 8 is very quick burning. I only use it for matrix comets. You could add some titanium to make more of a tail. Still, I would roll up the emerald cores to 7 mm, prime them, and use them in 3 and 4 inch shells.You can roll some chrys 8 on them after thoroughly priming them, but the stars would be too big for 3 and 4 inch shells.
guntoteninfadel Posted May 25, 2011 Posted May 25, 2011 Want a picture? They all nest together. Let me know when you post that pic, sounds interesting!
guntoteninfadel Posted May 25, 2011 Posted May 25, 2011 I am so tightly wound You......... Really?!?! Havent noticed...... (isnt that the sarcasim emoticon?)
layedbackkustomz Posted June 23, 2011 Posted June 23, 2011 to much water is my guess. i have found that after i spray i can add 5 to 6 scoops with a batch the size of your sometimes more then i let to just roll for awhile. then spray and roll awhile then add come. i also roll my D1 with sod. bicarb and bottles water from a ro system.
Potassiumchlorate Posted October 25, 2011 Posted October 25, 2011 Toro: http://www.pyrobin.com/files/03_b.wmv http://www.pyrobin.c...olling_0001.wmv Take a look at these, I dont have time to review them but I think one of them is the Japanese video. So that is the Toro method - one scoop of slurry and one of dry composition? How much composition in % in the slurry?
Mumbles Posted October 25, 2011 Posted October 25, 2011 It varies. Smaller stars need a thinner slurry to prevent them from sticking together, where as larger stars can take thicker slurries. There isn't a lot of information on it in Western literature, or that people are really sharing yet. It's a little bit of a dark area at the moment. When I slurry prime stars I do use a 1:1 water:comp mixture to coat the stars initially, and then coat with powder. It makes doing step primes incredibly easy by using a slurry of one composition, and a dry powder of the other or some mixture of compositions. I make mostly cut stars, so I don't worry about viscosity too much. I'm not trying to make them round, and since the stars are already dry, I can get my hand in there and break them up if they're sticking.
50AE Posted October 25, 2011 Posted October 25, 2011 Beginning with cut stars can be tricky, especially with fast activating binders, because of the flat surface they tend to easily stick together.
dagabu Posted October 25, 2011 Posted October 25, 2011 Beginning with cut stars can be tricky, especially with fast activating binders, because of the flat surface they tend to easily stick together. Really? This has not been my experience at all, only with high parlon content have I had any sticking and with holding some dry comp in reserve and coating the patty with 1/8" of it, I find that one can cut and drag the line of cut material or a line of cut stars away from the patty with ease. With Dextrine, I find that there is no need to use the dry comp but I still do as it makes for easy priming. -dag
50AE Posted October 25, 2011 Posted October 25, 2011 I must say I haven't mastered star rolling entirely, but I've experienced it.
dagabu Posted October 25, 2011 Posted October 25, 2011 I must say I haven't mastered star rolling entirely, but I've experienced it. LOL! I think only a few of the best have mastered it. I can make some perfectly round and even sized stars but it takes me FOREVER to do so. I find it much easier to cut them or to use cores I have rolled then starting from some kind of media. I am also amazed at the amount of comp it takes to make a batch of stars. I usually only make comp 1 kilo at a time and I like to use it up quickly so that I don't overload the mag. Rolling stars in the dead of winter is also a favorite of mine. The comp dries faster and the temp is more comfortable for me. -dag
Potassiumchlorate Posted October 25, 2011 Posted October 25, 2011 I find hand rolling organic/BP type stars with dextrin pretty easy. Rolling barium chlorate/shellac with alcohol is tougher, and rolling parlon stars with acetone is a hell, unless you have a star roller, and even then a lot of the composition is lost, sticking to the bowl.
50AE Posted October 25, 2011 Posted October 25, 2011 Rolling colored organic stars is child's play, I love them. I haven't tried rolling bright Al stars, I think it will be a pain in the butt. Rolling glitters with coarse charcoal was challenging for me, because the star doesn't want to hold well, it needs more binder.Ralph's gliter with 8% dextrin is great though, I love it. It rolls so easily.
dan999ification Posted October 25, 2011 Posted October 25, 2011 Rolling colored organic stars is child's play, I love them. I haven't tried rolling bright Al stars, I think it will be a pain in the butt. Rolling glitters with coarse charcoal was challenging for me, because the star doesn't want to hold well, it needs more binder.Ralph's gliter with 8% dextrin is great though, I love it. It rolls so easily. i may try ralphs glitter with 8%, i also prefer starting to roll with some kind of media or core cut or not doesnt bother me charcoal comps are nice if you're patient and not scared to wet and let them roll this is the key.veline blue rolls ok round cut cores. dan.
Potassiumchlorate Posted October 26, 2011 Posted October 26, 2011 I think silver stars with lots of aluminium and zinc stars are better pumped. I have just experimented with Weingart's zinc spreader stars and Lancaster's chlorate silver stars, though.
Pyrophury Posted October 26, 2011 Posted October 26, 2011 I find that formulas containing lots of aluminium flake like silver wave are the easiest stars to roll I have encountered, you can roll them in a hurry and they still come out like ball bearings and very consistently sized without screening. The only draw back is that bright aluminium flake is very messy, it gets airborne so easily and sticks to everything. Stars containing large amounts of charcoal I find are very difficult to roll using the spray and sprinkle method, but the toro method I found very easy to get the hang of and was much quicker and produced very consistently sized stars.
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