Reinfrastructure

[dagabu]

Has anybody made cylinder shells using the reinfrastructure method?

[Mumbles]

I've made some yes. Did you have a question about the method?

[dagabu]

Yes, sorry I was in a hurry at the time I posted that. I do not see a reference to the spiking changing in the amount of vertical or horizontal strands used on the inner or outer spiking. Am I to understand this that the same pattern is used on both layers?

 

Also, are there more strands on the pasted shell then the reinfrastructure method, the same or more on the reinfrastructure method?

[marks265]

In the Pyrotechnica 9 & 11 Fucanelli does have a table for the different methods. Both methods do utilize a different spiking arrangement where rinfascature does require more string. I have even made smaller shells using the traditional method without paste (without the additional amount of spiking).

 

Mark

[dagabu]

What page is the table on Mark? I see the one for traditional but not reinfrastructure.

[Mumbles]

I don't have my copies handy, but I'm pretty sure the rinfasciature section is toward the end of #11. It seems out of place to me as he talks about a bunch of random bits and pieces first like finale chains and parachutes.

 

I always used less string than I would if traditionally pasting in a shell. I can't tell if Mark meant the method uses more string overall in the construction of the shell, or more string per spiking layer. The first part would be true, the second is not in my experience. Normally I use the next size down's spiking pattern. IE, I normally spike 3" shells with 12 verticals, 4" - 16, 5" - 24, 6" -32, etc. If I were making a 5" shell with this method, I'd use only 16 verticals per layer as would traditionally be used on a 4". I've had better luck keeping 3" the same. The next size down presumably would be 8 strands, but I've always had good luck with keeping with 12.

 

I have a tendency to horizontally spike short rectangles than true squares. Just through building you get the right feel for the right break for your string, and that is where I ended up. I am more conscious about this, and do make true squares.

[marks265]

Traditional spiking in IX is on Page 20 and in XI rinfascature method is on page 46.

 

Mark

[dagabu]

Sweet, thanks Mark

[marks265]

Now that I have a little more time to right I will give one example which pertains to a 3" shell.

 

A pasted shell would have a single session of 12 vertical strings for that particular shell.

 

Rinfasciature would have 8 verticals then a layer of paper then followed up with 8 more verticals, ultimately having 16 verticals vs 12 in the traditional method. Both methods suggest 8 or 10 ply cotton and 2 strands per spiking. And just because this method does not use paste for the paper it still requires paste for the string. At least if you plan on keeping within the guidelines of the traditional method. In that light the builder is still not paste free!

 

I do not wish to quote the entire writing Pyrotechnica bit I hope it gives an idea.

 

Mark

[Mumbles]

I also take extra care with fire sealing up shells if I am going to go with a method lacking pasted paper. Some people like to cut the dry rolled can flaps and fold them down. I consider this a no-no even more so with rinfrascature. You really must fold down the paper (preferably layer by layer), and set the folds if you do not do this normally. I also typically use 2" wide masking tape to lay down a sealing layer around the edges of the can both before and after I place the 2nd disk on just as kind of a double insurance policy. You also have to make sure there is a paper crown. Part of the intrinsic design of this method is that the paper over the first layer of spiking is pinched against the spolette by the subsequent spiking. As Mark said, the string is still pasted, but that dries pretty quickly in the sun or with a fan. I'd imagine hide or white glue or paste is still used on the string web around the spolette.

 

I'm really not sure how well this method would work out with timefuse instead of spolettes.

[Livingston]

I've read the article the other night and it never mention the horizontal spiking. So with that in mind I ask you guys is there any?

What's hide glue?

 

Thanks

 

 

 

"Now let's make sum Sky Art"

[WonderBoy]

http://lmgtfy.com/?q=hide+glue Sorry, couldn't help myself. Titebond hide glue works fine. Hot glue works too, especially if you're wanting to shoot the shell the same day. This is the one and only time I advocate excess glue, I like to put a nice puddle around the spolette or timefuse after the first spiking.

 

Using the rinfasciature method on shells, yes there is horizontal spiking. Inserts are made a bit differently though. As Mum mentioned earlier in this thread, you can vary the amount, or density of horizontals based on your string, what is in the shell, and the kind of break you want. For a standard star break, I usually spike on my horizontals making squares, or "piccole cadretti" if you are Mike Swisher.

 

I documented making a 3 break using rin, I can share it if it would be helpful.

 

 

WB

Edited November 5, 2014 by WonderBoy

[nater]

I would like to see your write up. When I get back from vacation, I intend to finish a timed spider with each insert dry pasted

[WonderBoy]

Sure, I posted this on Fireworking a little while ago, so it may look familiar. This is just one example of rinfasciature, you can do many variations from it. I think the use of intermediate skirts is sort of an exhibition style of building, and not completely necessary.

 

And I have changed a few things since making this. I now build additional breaks separately, then I use sort of a sharp stick to pierce through the bottom and make room for the spolette, then push them together before spiking. Also, to ensure everything is fireproof, I fold/pleat down one turn of paper on the bottom of the shell before doing the tongue fold. And on the top of the shell, I fold/pleat down the paper starting with the inner most turn and working my way around instead of doing it all at once.

 

You can also do a final wrap of 2 turns paper with just 8 verticals. When you do this wrap, instead of pleating the paper on top, bunch it up around the spolette, and then after applying the 8 verticals, wind the string tightly around the paper on the spolette. This isn't completely necessary, but it is said to completely fireproof the shell, as well as protect the spiking when the shell leaves the mortar.

 

rin_4in_3-break_APC.pdf

 

Inserts are rin'd a bit differently, similar to the outer wrap I described above. You spike the insert as normal, then apply your outer wrap of paper, tongue fold on the bottom, and bunch the paper around the timefuse. Then spike it on with only verticals, finishing it by tightly wrapping the string around the paper on the fuse to fire seal it. I think I have photos somewhere of this, I can try to find them.

 

 

WB

[dagabu]

Sure, I posted this on Fireworking a little while ago, so it may look familiar. This is just one example of rinfasciature, you can do many variations from it. I think the use of intermediate skirts is sort of an exhibition style of building, and not completely necessary.

 

And I have changed a few things since making this. I now build additional breaks separately, then I use sort of a sharp stick to pierce through the bottom and make room for the spolette, then push them together before spiking. Also, to ensure everything is fireproof, I fold/pleat down one turn of paper on the bottom of the shell before doing the tongue fold. And on the top of the shell, I fold/pleat down the paper starting with the inner most turn and working my way around instead of doing it all at once.

 

You can also do a final wrap of 2 turns paper with just 8 verticals. When you do this wrap, instead of pleating the paper on top, bunch it up around the spolette, and then after applying the 8 verticals, wind the string tightly around the paper on the spolette. This isn't completely necessary, but it is said to completely fireproof the shell, as well as protect the spiking when the shell leaves the mortar.

 

rin_4in_3-break_APC.pdf

 

Inserts are rin'd a bit differently, similar to the outer wrap I described above. You spike the insert as normal, then apply your outer wrap of paper, tongue fold on the bottom, and bunch the paper around the timefuse. Then spike it on with only verticals, finishing it by tightly wrapping the string around the paper on the fuse to fire seal it. I think I have photos somewhere of this, I can try to find them.

 

 

WB

 

I love that method, IMHO it's cleaner to work with and you can mix-n-match breaks. I like to make several of the same type break at once then make a different one, etc. It allows you to make some fun combinations, make a single break or a multi break shell just using "stock" breaks.

[psyco_1322]

I spike my shells with less than traditional verticals, usually just one size off, as Mumbles described, so a 3" and 4" have 12 verticals, 5" - 16, 6" - 24. This is regardless of finishing method. If I rin the shells, I use the same number of verticals, just lay them down in between the first set of verticals, same with horizontals. That's with a single strand of unpasted 1.5mm hemp.

Edited November 8, 2014 by psyco_1322

[dagabu]

Only four years old now but that's OK, arise dead thread!

 

This past August, my wife and I did a class at PGI teaching Italian shells for beginners for competition but because we are between shops right now, we have to make everything at PGI for the class except for purchased stars and BP.

 

We decided to make a few reinfrastructure (read: Re-Infrastructure) shells early Sunday to make sure we had the burst and lift correct. I have to say that using this method was very fast and with no paste, there was nothing to dry, just spike using the reduced pattern as in Fulcanelli (above) and spike on the second layer offsetting the string on the first layer.

 

I was amazed at how well they worked, no pasting of the string, just a little paste on the shell between layers to hold the string in place, they dried within minutes, no need to wait when making a few shells.

 

I had made all the spolette/disk assemblies ahead of time so there was no wit time for them to dry.

 

Happy shell making all!

[NeighborJ]

I love this method for making almost all my rocket headers. Its very fast and very effective, i also am able to use the cheap recycled paper for building them. I can save the good paper for pasted shells. If i make shells with it I do need to make the final shell wrap from virgin craft otherwise it usually catches fire and floats down smoldering, its very distracting and rather unsafe. Edited November 14, 2018 by NeighborJ

[dagabu]

Lift wrap, J? I have seen that too but I didn't notice the difference between the recycled and virgin burning in the air.

 

Sumptin new every day...

[Mumbles]

If you've never tried it, the wet lift wrap is great for reducing debris and fallout. Its only 1.5 to 2 layers of pretty thin paper, so it dries pretty quick with sunlight or good airflow.

 

I've never noticed much of a difference with recycled vs. Virgin kraft either. Dry wraps almost always leave smouldering debris for me. I haven't ever really paid attention to the final wrap in Rin shells either though.

[NeighborJ]

Yeah nothing really beats a wet wrap for fire protection. The idea for a virgin craft final wrap comes from its effectiveness in rolling motor tubes. It is far superior over recycled craft so i applied it to the lift wraps and it worked for me. I do use a thicker paper than most for this and it greatly reduced the ammount of flaming fallout, not eliminate, but its acceptable.