Algenco Posted April 3, 2011 Posted April 3, 2011 I recently acquired a large quantity of time fuse that can't be used with hot glue. Any recommendations on hide glues?
Ralph Posted April 3, 2011 Posted April 3, 2011 I recently acquired a large quantity of time fuse that can't be used with hot glue. Any recommendations on hide glues? why cant you use hot glue ?
Algenco Posted April 3, 2011 Author Posted April 3, 2011 the tar melts into the core. Ensign Bickford fuse I'll most likely order some rabbit hide glue
dagabu Posted April 3, 2011 Posted April 3, 2011 Never liked the stuff. I dont know how old mine is but it is over 3/8" OD. Huge stuff.
Algenco Posted April 3, 2011 Author Posted April 3, 2011 (edited) mine is smaller than Chinese TF.Burns great, 3.1 sec per inch yes, it's old Edited April 3, 2011 by Algenco
Bonny Posted April 3, 2011 Posted April 3, 2011 (edited) the tar melts into the core. Ensign Bickford fuse I'll most likely order some rabbit hide glue You could use string soaked in white glue. Simply wrap it around and let dry. If the moisture from the glue is a problem, wrap the fuse with masking tape or foil tape first. Edited April 4, 2011 by Bonny
pyrogeorge Posted April 3, 2011 Posted April 3, 2011 what type of time fuse is that?maybe you can tape it around and then you can use hot glue
Algenco Posted April 3, 2011 Author Posted April 3, 2011 Bickford invented the safety fuse, which was later sold the Nobel. We were testing pieces , trying to light them from a campfire, the heat would melt the tar and choke the fuse. I have no problems with returning to traditional methods, never liked hot glue anyway. http://www.ensign-bickfordind.com/subpages/history.html
Peret Posted April 3, 2011 Posted April 3, 2011 I had some Chinese time fuse that was coated with wax or something, whatever, hot glue wouldn't stick to it. I used epoxy and have ever since. Hide glue is a "hot glue" anyway, it's basically thick gelatin and you melt it in a pot. I can't see that would be any better than plastic hot glue.
Mumbles Posted April 3, 2011 Posted April 3, 2011 Which kind of hide glue did you have in mind? There is the melted type, and the RT stabilized stuff. I have no experience with the real deal, but with the liquid hide glue you just spread some around the spolette. I don't know how thick it is, or if it'd hold up all that well on a ball shell. The string wrapped in glue should probably be sufficient for that application. The string on a spiked canister shell holds the glue nicely around the spollete.
Algenco Posted April 3, 2011 Author Posted April 3, 2011 I was told to use hide glue and string, don't know what type.White glue and string will probably work
dagabu Posted April 5, 2011 Posted April 5, 2011 Al, I have used both white glue and Titebond II for building glued string cones and my findings were that the white glue would as Mum said, leave some air bubbles as would the Titebond II but the big difference is strength. I was breaking shells too hard (so I thought) and they would detonate the inserts, thinking air holes, gaps and the sort, I went back and made several inserts with clay inside than instead of comp, made some inserts with a hot glued string cone, some with white glue and some with Titebond II. My findings were that the hot glue was not strong enough, it cracked at the base and let fire into the insert. The white glue did a great job on 75% (or so) of the inserts with some still breaking. The Titebond II held firm on all of them even though I did have one section of time fuse that got broken by the break.
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