moondogman Posted March 21, 2011 Posted March 21, 2011 Ive got a compound miter saw I plan to use. Should this work alright?? I believe I have a fine tooth blade for it too, Im thinking this would work even better. Thoughts?? Steve
dagabu Posted March 21, 2011 Posted March 21, 2011 I use a bandsaw with a 1/32" kerf. I also roll the tube while it is being cut so that there is no burr.
ballmill Posted March 21, 2011 Posted March 21, 2011 Definitely use your crosscut blade if you can, you'll probably still get some tearout but nothing some sandpaper can't fix!
nater Posted March 21, 2011 Posted March 21, 2011 I have used my miter saw with a crosscut blade and a small miter box with a pull saw. Both ways tore the tube a little bit, but it easily fixed with sandpaper. Next time I build I am going to try rubbing a little wax on a plumb bob and making sure the inside of the tubes are smooth.
dagabu Posted March 21, 2011 Posted March 21, 2011 I have used my miter saw with a crosscut blade and a small miter box with a pull saw. Both ways tore the tube a little bit, but it easily fixed with sandpaper. Next time I build I am going to try rubbing a little wax on a plumb bob and making sure the inside of the tubes are smooth. I have cut lots of tubes on the miter box, both powered and non-powered and I like the band saw much better. THIS bandsaw is pretty nice, I have an even cheaper one I got decades ago. The plumb bob works great to open the tubes just a hair, I dont use wax but it wouldn't hurt. I use a flapwheel on my bench grinder to put a slight bevel on the edge after cutting them on the bandsaw. LINK
ballmill Posted March 21, 2011 Posted March 21, 2011 I find bandsaws very versatile in the shop and more enjoyable to use than any other powertool. One of these days I need to swap blades on mine so I can cut tubes nicely with it.
Bilbobaker Posted April 1, 2011 Posted April 1, 2011 Ive got a compound miter saw I plan to use. Should this work alright?? I believe I have a fine tooth blade for it too, Im thinking this would work even better. Thoughts?? Steve Wrapping the area to be cut with masking tape will minimize external tear out.Inserting a proper sized dowel will minimize internal tear.Bill.
dagabu Posted April 1, 2011 Posted April 1, 2011 Wrapping the area to be cut with masking tape will minimize external tear out.Inserting a proper sized dowel will minimize internal tear.Bill. Bill, You will find that masking the tube will often end up in tearing the paper of the end of the tube and cutting a dowel time after time becomes expensive. A 18-24 tooth bandsaw blade that has been properly broken in will out perform anything else hands down, especially if one rolls the tube against the blade as you cut it, there is no snagging of paper at all if cut this way.
moondogman Posted April 2, 2011 Author Posted April 2, 2011 The brand new fine tooth blade and cutting slow works just fine almost no tearing at all. Steve
WSM Posted April 9, 2011 Posted April 9, 2011 I've always envied the clean, machine-cut look of Estes engine tubes. I can get the same effect by inserting a close-fitting wood dowel, placing the tube on a hard, flat cutting board and following a straight line on the tube with a long, straight-edged kitchen knife till I cut through. I get the straight line by rolling a piece of thin card stock around the tube and lining up the edges for a straight line and mark it with a pen or a sharp pencil. This is more work and takes more time, but the results look professional . Of course it's easier with thinner tubes than thicker ! WSM
dagabu Posted April 9, 2011 Posted April 9, 2011 Chuck up a wooden dowel in a lathe and slip the tube over it, measure and mark the cut , start the lathe on the lowest speed possible and use a carbon steel knife to part the tubes. They are clean and have a shiny surface. No lathe? A drill press will work as well as a wood lathe.
Bilbobaker Posted April 20, 2011 Posted April 20, 2011 (edited) Chuck up a wooden dowel in a lathe and slip the tube over it, measure and mark the cut , start the lathe on the lowest speed possible and use a carbon steel knife to part the tubes. They are clean and have a shiny surface. No lathe? A drill press will work as well as a wood lathe. Excellent idea. Thanks that will make a very clean cut.I've just been cutting them today on the radial arm with a very nice blade and they still have some inside fuziness so for that I just push in and twist an over sized metal punch then tap in my tapered plugs with a bit of glue on them.I'm pretty pleased with this result too. Edited April 20, 2011 by Bilbobaker
moondogman Posted April 20, 2011 Author Posted April 20, 2011 (edited) After cutting my tubes all pretty and everything I came to me that im just gonna hit them with a hammer try to shoot them in the air and blow them up. As long as the rammer fits in them they should work fine. I was worried about nothing. Ill take functional over pretty any day (for most things. Steve Edited April 20, 2011 by moondogman
dagabu Posted April 21, 2011 Posted April 21, 2011 I press my motors in an aluminum sleeve and in a press to 9000 PSI, they have to be straight cut every time.
Peret Posted April 21, 2011 Posted April 21, 2011 (edited) After cutting my tubes all pretty and everything I came to me that im just gonna hit them with a hammer try to shoot them in the air and blow them up. As long as the rammer fits in them they should work fine. I was worried about nothing. Ill take functional over pretty any day (for most things. Too right. Lathes, band saws, 9000 pound hydraulic presses ... meh. A hacksaw and my good right arm does the job for a fraction of the investment. The tubes are choked anyway, so who cares whether the ends are ragged? Edited April 21, 2011 by Peret
dagabu Posted April 21, 2011 Posted April 21, 2011 That's the difference between us, you: "meh", me: repeatable precision. To each his own I say.
Peret Posted April 21, 2011 Posted April 21, 2011 I asked for that. But then if I spent as much time in a month on pyro as you appear to do in a day, I'd probably invest in the tools.
dagabu Posted April 21, 2011 Posted April 21, 2011 I asked for that. But then if I spent as much time in a month on pyro as you appear to do in a day, I'd probably invest in the tools. Once you are set up with a space dedicated to pyro, all you have to do is go grab some comp from the mag and press a rocket. Takes 1/2 hour to make a single device, no need to spend all day at it. I usually spend 2 hours a day in the shop, 6 on Saturdays. I spend a lot more time then that pestering you here.
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