NeighborJ Posted January 28, 2017 Posted January 28, 2017 Mike, I use the Alcoa 120 in D1 and N1 but I haven't added it as the sol metal. I'm assuming your asking what difference it will make? I sub 20% A120 for 20% of the 325m atomized Al in order to create a longer lasting tail. The one big difference I've seen is at the end of the tail the AL no longer glitters and turns into more of a flitter or AL firefly.
dynomike1 Posted January 28, 2017 Posted January 28, 2017 That's what i was wondering. I just made a batch of N1 with full 120. I have some stars drying now. I'll remember to use 20% 120 and the rest 325 next time. Hobby Chem said it was Glitter Al. so i thought i would try it.
NeighborJ Posted January 28, 2017 Posted January 28, 2017 I've never tried A120 in D1 as 100% it may have a nice effect IDK.
OldMarine Posted January 29, 2017 Posted January 29, 2017 If it's the Reynolds it'll have only a slightly larger mesh so it may actually give bigger spritzels. I've finally got me a large enough collection of aluminum grades to start playing with glitters again. So far D1 and Buttered Popcorn are my faves.
dynomike1 Posted January 29, 2017 Posted January 29, 2017 Here's the break down of it and it is not Reynolds.It is a mixed mesh aluminum, here are Alcoa specs. -40-100mesh 10%-25%, 100-200mesh 15%-30%, 200-325mesh 15%-25%, -325mesh 28%-34%.
Boophoenix Posted January 29, 2017 Posted January 29, 2017 Mike, don't forget to share the out come. I've got some supposed Alcoa 120 and a 101 Al. While the 101 only contains about 20-25 percent -160 +325 material ( the 160 is an estimate currently ) from personal classifying. I should have enough I could classify it to make a pretty close 120 blend if I ever needed. I acquired some sieves specifically for metals a little while back since I don't like go back and forth between non metalic and metalic classifying.
BlueComet24 Posted January 29, 2017 Posted January 29, 2017 I use solely Alcoa 120 in N1 glitter. It's very pretty and makes lovely stars, fountains, and sparklers (although the sparklers drip a lot of sparks and dross).
dynomike1 Posted January 29, 2017 Posted January 29, 2017 They should be dry by the end of the week, and i will do a video.
dynomike1 Posted February 4, 2017 Posted February 4, 2017 (edited) It started raining, so i shot it anyway. N-1 with Alcoa 120. 1 tbsp of BP, 1/4 cup of 3/8" pumped stars. It actually looked better in person. (Awesome Glitter.) Edited February 4, 2017 by dynomike1
NeighborJ Posted February 5, 2017 Posted February 5, 2017 That looked awesome. Id think its a shell best launched after a good rain and sent really high. Beautiful.
braddsn Posted February 7, 2017 Posted February 7, 2017 Hey Mike, I have made D-1 (I actually prefer N-1) in 2 different ways. First, I have used 50% alcoa, and 50% -325 mesh aluminum. Second, I made it with 100% Alcoa. I used the Alcoa for the same reason you did, because it is advertised as "glitter aluminum". Both ways made great glitter stars, and I do believe the Alcoa makes some nicer delayed flashes. The only real difference I could notice was with the 100% Alcoa, there were some longer delayed flashes (if that makes sense). I absolutely love that alcoa, I also make white flitter/white pearl comets with it. Makes a nice long thick tail. Your D-1 test looks PERFECT to me.
dynomike1 Posted February 7, 2017 Posted February 7, 2017 Yea Brad look like the longer it burns the better the flashes. I could see why the second was better, if you went 50-50 with the first one you had about 78% -325. If you had went 20% -325 it would have looked a little better out of the gun. @ 78% it would probably cover up some of the flashes.
MudDuckPyro79 Posted February 16, 2017 Posted February 16, 2017 Here is this comp using homemade aluminum powder ballmilled for 5 days in small lortone mill using ceramic media. It was a 1"x1" comet that I pumped in pvc pipe and drilled out using a 1/4" drill bit after fully dried and was 1/4" wide and 1/4"deep filled with 7-3 flash didn't even hold a half of a gram of flash..https://youtu.be/jXQb8PCB8pk
lloyd Posted February 16, 2017 Posted February 16, 2017 (edited) If there had been any 'pre-form' to the hole (square, X-shape, even triangular), that would've been a good crossette. OF COURSE I don't have to warn you that drilling dried comps - and especially metal-bearing ones - is NOT good for your health. But you already knew that, so I won't. Lloyd Edited February 16, 2017 by lloyd
MudDuckPyro79 Posted February 16, 2017 Posted February 16, 2017 Yep I did, only hand drilling only slow as you go, I guess I should have mentioned that in the vid. And this is no way to do several of these just messing around with some home brew aluminum. The aluminum was way to fine for a glitter but was a neat effect...
MudDuckPyro79 Posted March 10, 2017 Posted March 10, 2017 Here is some 3/4"x3/4" d1 comets using aluminum foil ball milled for 10 hours it passed a 40 mesh screen used corned white ash black powder for lift. 1.5 grams of lift
OldMarine Posted March 10, 2017 Posted March 10, 2017 (edited) Looked pretty good! I love the rapid fire!How did you fuse those? Edited March 10, 2017 by OldMarine
MudDuckPyro79 Posted March 10, 2017 Posted March 10, 2017 Green fast fuse front cannonfuse.com I'm thinking it's 3to5 sec ft. Pipe to pipe fused.
OldMarine Posted March 10, 2017 Posted March 10, 2017 I have some of that and the almost quickmatch fast yellow that I've been trying to figure how to use in reloadable cakes in a fan pattern.
MudDuckPyro79 Posted March 10, 2017 Posted March 10, 2017 I know pvc isn't ideal but works just fine for test guns.
OldMarine Posted March 10, 2017 Posted March 10, 2017 (edited) PVC is fine for star guns and small mines. It would suck for shells but I don't build those! I have a 20' stick of 1" schedule 80 PVC that I snagged just to build some quick shot fan racks with but haven't figured out how to build them yet.I'm going to get me a ¾" crossette pump for those soon. Edited March 10, 2017 by OldMarine 1
Recommended Posts