New guy here

[GregWoloshyn]

Hey everyone, I'm new to this forum but not so new to basic pyro principles and handling. I've been lurking for a few days and absorbing the wealth of good info here. I'm planning to begin making some BP and some aerial shells to try out. Only problem is, I think my ball mill may be too small. I have the red 3lb capacity mill you'll find at pyrocreations. Maybe I'll look into building my own in the future.

 

Two questions to start out: Currently I'm using white ceramic media for my ball mill, I imagine this won't work good for milling BP?

 

Also, I've been looking at the kits Skylighter offers for making BP and star compositions. I've also priced out buying the materials elsewhere for cheaper. I'm sure skylighter sells premium stuff so should I sacrifice price for quality? Places like Hobby Chemical Supply sells KNO3 at a good price.

Edited January 27, 2011 by GregWoloshyn

[BJV]

Hey everyone, I'm new to this forum but not so new to basic pyro principles and handling. I've been lurking for a few days and absorbing the wealth of good info here. I'm planning to begin making some BP and some aerial shells to try out. Only problem is, I think my ball mill may be too small. I have the red 3lb capacity mill you'll find at pyrocreations. Maybe I'll look into building my own in the future.

 

Also, I've been looking at the kits Skylighter offers for making BP and star compositions. I've also priced out buying the materials elsewhere for cheaper. I'm sure skylighter sells premium stuff so should I sacrifice price for quality? Places like Hobby Chemical Supply sells KNO3 at a good price.

 

You wont go wrong buying from Hobby Chemical Supply. Just my 2 cents.

BJV

[Richtee]

Currently I'm using white ceramic media for my ball mill, I imagine this won't work good for milling BP?

 

I had ceramic at first. It works, just double milling time... roughly. Went to .50 lead balls. Yeah, lead this, lead that...but it'll "git-r-done"

 

My 11 cents, adjusted for inflation.

Edited January 27, 2011 by Richtee

[GregWoloshyn]

Thanks. I guess I'll use this thread to ask my initial questions rather than starting new topics..

 

I noticed screens are rather expensive. Does anyone know where I could get a set of them, maybe something used?

[Mumbles]

Ebay? Screens are not horribly priced from a place like McMaster-Carr. You just then need to mount them somehow. I like having a good range of screens, but you could likely get all the screens you need for basic operations for $20-30.

[oldguy]

http://www.camelminingproducts.biz/classifier-set/

 

Good enough to get you started

[GregWoloshyn]

Is it ok to store any kind of chemical outside in freezing temperatures?

 

And, if i mill different types of oxidizers in the same drum do i need to worry about contamination issues?

 

Im not looking to get spoon fed, ive been reading alot over at skylighter and thinking about going to passfire.

[Gunzway]

If the chemicals are hygroscopic, I wouldn't be storing them outside in freezing temperatures. Make sure all containers are airtight and are sealed securely. For the sake of convenience, if you can, I would just store all chemicals inside and protected from the weather just to make sure complications don't arise. I'm sure you could be fine storing many different chemicals outside if it is a necessity, but it's just a pain in the ass if the weather gets to them. If it's under a veranda or some shelter, it'll be fine. The shed will suffice most definitely. If you have a 50lb bag of KNO3 outside, just expect it to be all clumped, lumpy and for it to take some minor processing to get it as free flowing again.

 

I believe it's fine to mill different oxidizers (EXCLUDING CHLORATES) in the same drum. KNO3, Sr(NO3)2 and Ba(NO3)3, for example, are all fine to use the same jar. You could even wash the mill jar for an added sense of security if you like. If you want to use KClO3, you'll definitely need a separate drum. Make sure to consult a pyrotechnic chemical compatibility list so you know what you can and cannot put in the mill after you've used it. The contamination of different formula being used in the same jar is very minuscule, and isn't something to worry about provided they're compatible.

[dagabu]

Is it ok to store any kind of chemical outside in freezing temperatures?

 

And, if i mill different types of oxidizers in the same drum do i need to worry about contamination issues?

 

Im not looking to get spoon fed, ive been reading alot over at skylighter and thinking about going to passfire.

 

Greg,

 

All dry chemicals can be safely stored in freezing conditions but must be kept dry. Little if any change takes place in the chemicals due to cold... heat is a different matter all together. I am sure that Mumbles will chime in and give us a posting for MSDS of the chems and such so that we can see for ourselves but as a way to do some checking yourself, look up the MSDS yourself on line and see what the storage requirements are for anything specific you have.

 

Yes, there are some chemicals that interact when mixed, again, lets see if Mumbles is willing to chime in here.

[Mumbles]

I can't think of any common pyro chemical that will be unsuitable toward storage in the cold. Solutions of things like nitrocellulose, shellac, gum arabic, etc may not work very well. I'd store those somewhere warm, or make them as needed. Everything else should be fine. There are some chemicals that don't stand up to cold all that well, but those are mostly plastics and biologically derived substances.

 

One think to note is that when firing shells in the cold, I find that BP can tend to be a bit sluggish.

[Peret]

Those Camel screens Oldguy suggested are a good price and a convenient size. Hobby Chemical is a good supplier with some of the best prices. As Algenco is fond of saying, "It's hard to beat Travis".

[lpspeedy]

Ebay? Screens are not horribly priced from a place like McMaster-Carr. You just then need to mount them somehow. I like having a good range of screens, but you could likely get all the screens you need for basic operations for $20-30.

 

Here is a place you can get screens and other high quality stuff. ( price for 1 screen 10 € or 14 $ )

They also have a high quality ball mill that has the right speed and size for good meal powder in less than 2 hours.

The problem is that the shipping rates to USA are pretty high for just 1 screen.

But it might be a good site if you need more products and let them send it all in 1 package.

 

Hope this helps!

 

EDIT: Link would be helpfull :-)

 

http://www.pyro-stuff.com/store/mesh-screens-sieves-c-25.html

Edited February 15, 2011 by lpspeedy

[tgis81]

Ebay? Screens are not horribly priced from a place like McMaster-Carr. You just then need to mount them somehow. I like having a good range of screens, but you could likely get all the screens you need for basic operations for $20-30.

 

When buying screens from ebay, amazon, etc - what material should the screen be made of? I've seen 304 stainless, 316 stainless, and plain steel. Of course the plain "steel" ones are much much cheaper than the stainless ones. But would the plain steel screens be ok, or should I get stainless? If only stainless, then 304 or 316? Does it make a difference?

[dagabu]

I have 316 SST screens (12" x 12") and I mounted them into 5 gallon buckets. I have not lost one to breakage or corrosion yet.

[Mumbles]

I had 304 and they held up very well too. Either will probably work. I also didn't store them wet very long.

[Richtee]

When buying screens from ebay, amazon, etc - what material should the screen be made of? I've seen 304 stainless, 316 stainless, and plain steel. Of course the plain "steel" ones are much much cheaper than the stainless ones. But would the plain steel screens be ok, or should I get stainless? If only stainless, then 304 or 316? Does it make a difference?

Plain steel will end up as sparks in your compounds in short order. Buy the best you can afford in stainless.

[tgis81]

Thanks for the info everyone

[Bonny]

Thanks for the info everyone

 

I've used a lot of plain steel screens over the years and have not had any problems. Stainless IS better, but plain steel will work just fine, as long as you keep in mind that you will most likely be adding some iron oxide (rust) to your comps. If you plan to be ball milling the chems after, then I'd say not to use plain steel screens, but otherwise they should be OK IF they are all you can get.

[soaringhigh]

Great info here and I'm getting a post in. thanks. Another new guy.

[guntoteninfadel]

Lots of great info here guys, when I think of something intelligent to ask I'll try that but for now just "replying" so that stupid bandwith thing will go away.

[dagabu]

Welcome Gun!

 

Most people do a good job asking questions, it's just the few that want to make destructive devices that get the cold shoulder. If you are into pyro and are willing to do some reading, you will be fine.

 

-dag